Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 197316 times)

Isaacmilne · « **Reply #150 on:** October 17, 2019, 03:00:20 AM »

Hey guys just wondering If I was to use the TP9 point to power some leds would they turn off with the controller or stay on? I'm trying to do the ABXY back lit mod but don't want them burning batteries all the time.

RDC · « **Reply #151 on:** October 17, 2019, 07:55:04 AM »

TP9 is a switched source, so it will turn on/off with the controller if you are running it from the batteries.

Isaacmilne · « **Reply #152 on:** October 17, 2019, 01:42:34 PM »

Thanks for your help 👍

RDC · « **Reply #153 on:** October 18, 2019, 10:58:07 AM »

Welcome.

Porchop · « **Reply #154 on:** November 08, 2019, 07:43:08 PM »

Hi, great resource and information. Just wondering of anyone knows what EG2 is by R4 & R7 on the power board? That area of my board looks nasty and R4 & R7 are both open circuit. Thanks.

RDC · « **Reply #155 on:** November 08, 2019, 08:41:56 PM »

EG2 is some type of TVS Diode, it would work with it missing.

R4 and R7 should be 0ohm jumpers.

Porchop · « **Reply #156 on:** November 09, 2019, 07:32:55 AM »

Thanks, did the trick nicely. Removed r4 & r7 and replaced with a wire link. Left eg2 on the board as it measured open circuit and isn't doing anything.

Appreciate the advice.

RDC · « **Reply #157 on:** November 09, 2019, 12:06:33 PM »

Welcome.

coatzavideojuego · « **Reply #158 on:** November 17, 2019, 08:58:16 PM »

please help me q6 and q7 is a diode? or mosfet

RDC · « **Reply #159 on:** November 17, 2019, 09:20:13 PM »

MOSFETs

Groove Harder · « **Reply #160 on:** November 27, 2019, 03:59:05 AM »

Hi,

When I was adding a duplicate 'A' button I managed to rip of the pad at TP21. The button was installed fine and I hot glued the connection but managed to rip the glue and pad off when it dried

Can I solder on a jumper from the highlighted via and if so where should it be soldered to?

Thanks very much in advance!

RDC · « **Reply #161 on:** November 27, 2019, 10:15:28 AM »

Your only option there is to jumper from that via to pin 17 of U4 there.

Groove Harder · « **Reply #162 on:** November 27, 2019, 11:53:14 AM »

That's what I was worried about... 😂

Cheers RDC

RDC · « **Reply #163 on:** November 28, 2019, 04:46:35 PM »

Welcome.

It's not the most difficult repair, and it's already buggered, so you can't really make it any worse by trying to fix it. Never try, never fail, but never fail never learn, and even if all you learn is you couldn't do it, that just means you couldn't do it this time.

The thinner the wire you can get the easier it will be to try. A single strand from some decent speaker wire works well.

I used the bit larger wire for this example, but the thinner would have worked better. Tin the end of it up and put a drop of flux on pin 17, it's going to get elsewhere, but that's fine as it will keep the solder from bridging and causing shorts where you don't want them. Trying this without flux is possible, but it's just asking for solder bridges. Don't add any more solder to the iron tip, as what is on pin 17 and the tinned wire end are pretty much enough to do the job.

Carefully bend the wire around to avoid hitting anything it could short on and solder the other end, either to that via or the right side pad of D11 there.

Gently clean it up with some rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip, and give it a good thrice over with some decent magnification to make sure nothing is shorted and the wire is just where you want it. Then give it a drop of hot glue in the middle of the wire somewhere, never on top of the solder joint.

This isn't what I'd call my best work, just did it real quick here to show how it could be done. The thinner wire and following the original trace route would have been my choice for an actual repair. You also don't need some crazy expensive or microscopic soldering iron either, this was done with my weapon of choice, the 2.4mm chisel tip, which by comparison doesn't look like the right tool for the job, but it just did it.

ali76rockl · « **Reply #164 on:** December 01, 2019, 12:43:12 AM »

hi. i have a problme with 1708 board.when i push y button it works but when i dont push it , it still is on

i checked y button and its all right but i think there is a problm with u4 ic

anyone can help me figure it out ?

RDC · « **Reply #165 on:** December 01, 2019, 01:01:49 AM »

Under what condition does the Y button become unpressed? You say you push it and it works, but it stays on, which it could not do if it stays on after it is pushed. So does the Y button 'reset' after a power cycle? remove the batteries? let it sit for a little bit?

If the actual Y button does not stick, and it takes a power cycle (controller off/on or pull the batteries) to get Y to work again, then I'd suspect U4 is latching up on that line, but I haven't seen one with that exact issue before, and in that case U4 would need to be replaced.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #166 on:** December 17, 2019, 05:53:34 PM »

Hello guys, I have a right stick click always active, the soldering pads on the RS click are fine but I can’t see what’s the issue here. Anybody help

RDC · « **Reply #167 on:** December 17, 2019, 05:55:12 PM »

Have you replaced the Stick? Have pics of the board?

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #168 on:** December 17, 2019, 05:56:35 PM »

Yes, 3 different joystick modules and still the same. Sorry that I don’t know how to post a pic from my phone, I’m a noob in this forum

RDC · « **Reply #169 on:** December 17, 2019, 05:59:49 PM »

Waat is the Resistance from ground to the RSC line? also see how the LSC checks for comparison.

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #170 on:** December 17, 2019, 06:00:48 PM »

How do I check it? What is the capacitor for the RS click?

Samuelmorin · « **Reply #171 on:** December 17, 2019, 06:29:57 PM »

Left the controller connected via usb on the console with controller tester app on (haven’t touched the controller since I started posting a couple of minutes ago) and noticed that it started registering the right stick X axis all the way to the left now..... without even touching it.

RDC · « **Reply #172 on:** December 17, 2019, 07:37:26 PM »

With a DMM. If you suspect the Capacitor, C27, just remove it. R21 (330hm) is also on the RSC line.

Greendaycolt · « **Reply #173 on:** December 31, 2019, 10:38:41 AM »

I have a 1708 controller that won’t detect the headset when plugged into the 3.5mm port. I’ve replaced the port with a known working one and even soldered it to PK1-PK7 to ensure it is making contact and still no headset can be detected. Any advice is appreciated!

RDC · « **Reply #174 on:** December 31, 2019, 11:34:19 AM »

Are you plugging in something that works on other controllers?

Any components knocked off the board around the PK contacts? R9, R10 etc. etc.

PK1 - Ring 2, GND
PK2 - Tip, LEFT
PK3 - Connects to PK2 with nothing plugged in, open when headset is plugged in
PK4 - Ring 1, RIGHT
PK5 - Open with nothing plugged in, connects to PK7 when headset is plugged in
PK6 - Shield, MIC
PK7 - Open with nothing plugged in, connects to PK5 when headset is plugged in

Degsy · « **Reply #175 on:** December 31, 2019, 05:19:49 PM »

Can anyone advise on where to create jumpers on the RS? All the pads have burnt off.
It’s not obvious to me where I should feed the wires

Greendaycolt · « **Reply #176 on:** December 31, 2019, 05:53:26 PM »

Yes, confirmed that the headphone ports I am using work perfectly on other controllers.

I don’t think anything is missing around the PK contacts.

I tried adding another ground path to PK1, but that didn’t change anything. Is it possible that PK5/7 traces are broken somewhere and they can be recreated?

RDC · « **Reply #177 on:** January 01, 2020, 07:37:22 AM »

@Degsy - The TP spots for the Right Stick are in the first post.

Code: [Select]

  O      O
G         x  o
Y
+         x  o
  O      O
   + X G

+ are the AN+ rail. They will measure 1.8v
G are Ground
O are also ground, solder lugs for the stick
o are also ground for the stick button
x are the stick click button
Y is the Y-axis
X is the X-axis

@Greendaycolt - Could be any number of things causing it.

PK5 goes thru R70 (1k) to the 3.3v line.

PK7 has a PullDown R9 (100k) and goes thru R10 (10k) and goes to the MCU board pad 35. I haven't traced it any further than that, but most likely it just goes right to the MCU.

Greendaycolt · « **Reply #178 on:** January 04, 2020, 03:44:10 PM »

Hi RDC,

Thanks for the help with the headphone trace issue - replacing R70 solved the issue.

I have another issue a different controller: no matter what potentiometer I use for the left stick x axis, it is always drifting in the positive direction, normally by 15-30%. When in center position, wiper to ground measures ~.95V. Ive tried more than 20 potentiometers that work fine without drift in other controllers, without success on this PCB. Is there any way I can modify the resistance to make it closer to the ideal 0.9V in the centered position?

Thank you again for the help!

RDC · « **Reply #179 on:** January 04, 2020, 04:20:54 PM »

The issue with that one most likely is that it was calibrated from the factory with a janky POT in there the first place. So no matter what, any 'good' one you put in there will always be a little bit off.

What you need to do is remove the POT from the metal stick housing, desolder the 3 leads then unclip it from the housing. Then cut off the 3 small posts that are in the corners of it, but leave the 2 clips on there. Those 3 small posts keep the POT 'centered' when it's clipped on the housing, and with them removed, and before soldering it in place, the POT will have some play in it to allow you to move it around. Reinstall the POT onto the stick housing and tweak (rotate) it a little bit in the direction that it's drifting. The Wiper position stays the same, but since you're moving the entire POT in relation to it you can change the center value and get it closer to whatever it was calibrated to, and correct the drifting.

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Author Topic: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1708 "Slim" (Read 197316 times)