Acidmods
AcidMods Resources ----- ( These are helpful tools for modding ) => Electronics Projects => Topic started by: FOOKz™ on January 26, 2011, 02:19:49 PM
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AVR-Transistor Tester
Parts List:
R1, R3, R5 | 680 OHMS |
R2, R4, R6 | 470K OHMS |
R11, R13 | 10K OHMS |
R12 | 3K OHMS |
R14 | 1K OHMS |
C1, C3 | 100nF |
IC1 | ATMEGA8-P |
IC2 | LM7805 |
DIS1 | HD44780 |
S1 | Tact Button |
S2 | SPST on/off switch |
This is a thread for anyone who wants to build one from scratch maybe we can convince the rest of the staff to sell this as a kit since this can replace 100's of dollars worth of equipment.
Original site: http://www.mikrocontroller.net/articles/AVR-Transistortester (http://www.mikrocontroller.net/articles/AVR-Transistortester)
hyper999, Mogler, Famas, frenulem and I are going to build one of these.
Video Demonstration
Showing off the semiconductor tester, great AVR project from Markus. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ux5gh4jGS3Q#ws)
Schematic Diagram
(https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=38452.0;attach=2801;image)
Work Log
Working on PCB Design
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi214.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fcc123%2Fsnoodracoon1%2Fdb0b4079.png&hash=4af91fd65c904403be5c20d02da78d47cfee6bc2)
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built it, seems to work, but im gonna need to edit the code as the on screen messages are in german now i just need the pcb layout ;)
EDIT: it seems to be detecting all resistors as paralell opposite diodes, this could be due to my wiring or because the youtube video above has different software on the AVR (mines in german theres is english), or because i had to bodge some resistors, i dont know
EDIT2: Just found some updated designs and software here, http://svn.coremelt.net/avr/semiconductor_tester/ (http://svn.coremelt.net/avr/semiconductor_tester/)
EDIT3: Ok sorted now, english, resistors working, caps working, transistors working, diodes working, uart output now included and working. cant test accuracy until i get the right resistors though. also the uart means you can use a cheap serial>usb cable instead of or as well as an lcd :)
there is also updated schematics including one that sacrifices the auto turn off but reduces the part count a bit
also fookz if its not too much trouble could you add to the pcb a connection for uart (pin 26 for tx and gnd) and a 6pin isp header? or gimme the files so i can try add these myself?
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there is also updated schematics including one that sacrifices the auto turn off but reduces the part count a bit
O_o
Which schematic is it? I just got home and is working on the PCB layout for the schematic posted above right as we speak.
If there are major changed to the board I may have to redo, I think its going to be fairly easy to change anyways.
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extra schematics
a connection from pin 26 needs to be added to all for uart though
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Look at the 7085 5volt regulator.
The pinouts are ether wrong or it's specific to the part.
I've looked at the diagram and realize that the schematic does not call for the typical 7805 TO-220 package. The PCB design is based upon the LM78M05 from National Semiconductor.
EDIT: I have attached the current beta PCB Layout.
The image is off-scale, so don't waste your time building one yet. The layout is huge! theres more room to make it smaller; its just going to take some time to get it down to size.
I will include two PCB designs:
1. a layout that is now wider than the width of 2 ICs placed side by side
2. a layout for general purpose project enclosures (larger than the 1st)
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heres a pic of my breadboarded setup;
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i really want to make this :)
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So Far this is what the beta version of the PCB looks like.
@Hyper please double check my work make sure that everything fits correctly before printing to your transfer paper just make changes as needed a repost the cad file.
@Famas maybe we can get kits to be sold in the AM Shop
Surface mount layout to come soon then I will post my work log.
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ok decided that im gonna need my own PCB if its gonna fit in my enclosure properly so here is my progress
Post Merge: February 01, 2011, 05:51:46 AM
ok here is the finished design, if you spot any differences betwwen the schematic and the PCB let me know (known differences; some resistors have been rounded to 30k, lcd power connections added.)
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been looking hard hyper and looks perfect other than this ringed the red connector circle doesnt look to be touching the green line
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yeah dw bout that it is connected i just rechecked
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ok built this all up thursday and it didnt work, so theres something wrong with my pcb layout i think. also i think the bc557 has blown up but i havent had time to check things ouyt properly.
also should the 7805 heat up really quickly if i short the emitter and collector of the bc557?
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no the 7085 wont heat up. actually you don't need the 'T3' BC557 and R10. Change R7 to 500 Ohms and connect it to +9v (pin3 to the 7805).
Breadboard it first.
the bc557 is probably dead because its handling the entire load of the whole circuit.
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if i do like you said and remove T3 and R10 wont that kill the auto off functionality?
P.S would you mind explaining to me how the auto on off works?
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oh wait thats the auto off transistor? lol woops then scratch what i said earlier now since i get why that transistor is there... Just replace T3 with a better transistor that will handle more current. possibly a 2N3906 ??
P.S would you mind explaining to me how the auto on off works?
I think that the auto off feature works by making pin 12 Low which turns off T1 and LED1, then more current is directed to T3 which turn it on thus switching power off of the entire circuit. When S1 is pressed it turns the chip back on making pin 12 High again which wakes up the circuit so you can test whatever you need.
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but i know the BC557 will work for t3 as i built this on my breadboard before i made the pcb but i think i put some wrong traces on my pcb causing a short somewhere or something.
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i want to make this hyper
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i know you do but you also want a pcb and i dont have a working one right now
Post Merge: February 07, 2011, 01:56:33 PM
ok ive ordered a shed load of transistors so they should be here in a couple of days then i can start debugging. any tips fookz?
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but i know the BC557 will work for t3 as i built this on my breadboard before i made the pcb but i think i put some wrong traces on my pcb causing a short somewhere or something.
idk its a possibility I can't really help you 100% because im not physically with you to see the board. well maybe if you could take a photo of what you have so far :tup:
With the transistors i don't know what else to say except to know that the BC557 and the 2N3906 series PNP transistors are almost exactly the same and are 100% interchangeable with any other NPN/PNP complimentary transistors (as long as they are wired & operate correctly) in this case.
Double check, triple check!
Also I won't be having lots of free time anymore because my work hours switched earlier and i need to get to bed earlier (im tired as balls atm).. so ya. I probably could design and etch a surface mount version and fit it within a calculator case?
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I probably could design and etch a surface mount version and fit it within a calculator case?
As twist would say, I want it.
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Can you really fit it inside the calculator?
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Yeah you probably could because its all surface mount... just get 4 of those 1.5v button cell batteries that add up to 6v then regulate it to 5v using that 7085 (surface mount version)... remove a few of the calculator's buttons (leave a few for on/off test etc..), bondo, sand, n paint the unused button holes, then add all the crap in there hook it up where the screen would be and make sure it all fits.
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damn that'd be usefull, lets see hyper whack this one up and then we can go from his schematics
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Realistically all the hard work is done for anyone who wants to build it; we just have to get a finalized PCB design & parts list for a possibility of kits being sold in the Acid mods shop for a nice price.
good DMM meters with a good transistor tester sell around $80 +
the best testing equipment that does the same as this device is around $300 +
This device competes with it so ya you'll be saving tons of green.
Edit: this is the calculator I am planning putting the SMD version of the PCB. I think it will fit.
Also @hyper if the price isn't too high I want to buy a pre-programmed chip off of you, ill pay shipping&price.
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Also @hyper if the price isn't too high I want to buy a pre-programmed chip off of you, ill pay shipping&price.
yeah i wanna do the same, he said £2.50 of the chip and p&p will cost More than that, not much more, dunno the prices to the us tho
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yeah fookz thats cool not sure where i would get a smd atmega from over here though, seeing as your all the way over in the us you may be better off building a programmer like this; http://electronics-diy.com/avr_programmer.php (http://electronics-diy.com/avr_programmer.php)
Post Merge: February 07, 2011, 06:57:40 AM
ok PCB v2 done.
- sorted out error with LCD connections
- some component relocations although space is really really tight
still cant work out what wen so wrong with v1 though :/
@fookz could it be that i used electrolytic caps instead of ceramic disk? just a thought oh and i have ordered some more ceramic ones with my transistors so v2 will sort that
oh and awseome pcb making tip, got through the schematic highlighting conections as you make them.
Post Merge: February 08, 2011, 04:25:38 PM
ok parts here, let the dubugging begin! lol
also noticed there is something missing from the schematic there should be a 0.22uF cap between Vi and GND of the 7805, i only have a 0.1uF but i think it will be fine.
Post Merge: February 09, 2011, 01:50:08 AM
ok set everything up started probing with my multimeter and found some odd voltages, anyone know what might cause the 7805 or the bc557 to act like this?
p.s i also have checked all components still function correctly outside of the circuit
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right, If you can grab a small knife or scapel, go inbetween the tracks to mack sure no bridges have been made, im sure theres no obvious ones but to double check
ok, go over
Transistors
ICs
Cap values
Res values
I'm looking over the PCB layout but its hard cuz i feel like throwing up right now
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done all of that think im gonna start cutting traces and continuity testing to speed things up as im gonna have to remake this pcb anyway
Post Merge: February 09, 2011, 05:15:32 AM
Ok pretty sure the problem is that the bc557 is not putting through enough voltage, what might cause this?
Post Merge: February 10, 2011, 11:45:37 AM
ok i am getting 5v now but now when i tap the button the lcd baclight turns on when the button is pressed and then the led blinks on dimly for a slpit sec after the button is released when i press and hold the button for like a szecond sometimes the led and backlight come on a then go off after a while and sometimes they just stay on till i disconnect the battery. any ideas?
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ok i am getting 5v now but now when i tap the button the lcd baclight turns on when the button is pressed and then the led blinks on dimly for a slpit sec after the button is released when i press and hold the button for like a szecond sometimes the led and backlight come on a then go off after a while and sometimes they just stay on till i disconnect the battery. any ideas?
whip out the good old volt meter to check for any error with a capacitor... idk thats all i can think of.
OK hyper when you get those AVR chips i hope you can figure out how to program the surface mount ones. I'll pay for the shipping and stuff.
check to make sure the external clock is working right.
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ok i can get them smd ones (although they are twice the price of the same but through hole) how many would you want?
altough it may be cheaper quicker for you to just use one of these if you have a serial port
http://electronics-diy.com/avr_programmer.php (http://electronics-diy.com/avr_programmer.php)
what do you mean by checking the external clock tho?
also how would i check capacitors?
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I guess i will take 2 DIP ones... thought about it today and i could just turn a DIP into SOIC by bending the leads and belt sanding the silicon package smaller.
also how would i check capacitors?
resistance across a capacitor is always supposed to be infinite ohms if its discharged... basically open an condition.
Measure supply terminals. you should not get a resistance thats scary low; say under 20 ohms... would be bad. measure supply terminals, you should read some sort of resistance.
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ok i can get them smd ones (although they are twice the price of the same but through hole)
turns out they aren't I just have an awful memory... so its up to you smd or through hole.
though are you sure you could sand them? wouldnt that get really hot?
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i sand DIP package chips all the time to fit them in controllers. no they dont get hot if you do a bit at a time.
get the SMD ones please if they are less than or equal to the through hole chip price. surface mount PCBs are easier to build in my opinion plus they are smaller and you'll be able to fit them in anything.
If you can program the surface mount chip that would also be a plus.
However, if you do not feel comfortable programming a surface mount chip get some regular ones if that makes it easier for you. [This is mainly why i want you to get them so you could program them for me :D]
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hyper what version did you program the AVRs you sent me? I have to know so i can grab the proper schematic diagram. Gonna test it tonight and finish up the PCB next weekend.
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its the latest version, i'm pretty sure they all use the same code so any of the schematics posted in this thread will work
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I'm gonna get back on this soon, very very soon, I got 4 hours of maths exams this week tho
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same*
I failed a class and im retaking it, ITS SO GAY!!! I hate busy work stuff.
Still have the PCB to work on... if theres someone who wants to build a case for it that would be kool.
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I think i might have another crack at a PCB for this, because i've had a lot more practice at making them and i've stumbled upon some nice free PCB software called Fritzing that allows you to build your circuit on a virtual breadboard and then translate this into a PCB (including auto-routing :D ) and i'm dying to get this thing off my breadboard!
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hey, just wondering how this is coming along. I would like to be making one of these as I can see how damn useful it would be. Im just gonna wait untill there is a solid parts list and code and everything. I just dont want to go through whta I did trying to get my usb/spi NAND flasher working (which I eventually did btw :) )
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Gonna work on his tonight, I would try and buy a pre programmed from you hyper but my pay pal is bein a dirty hoe
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lol well i got as far as rebuilding this on my breadboard, and as i did i also built it on fritzing but i had trouble getting a decent PCB layout worked out without a trillion jumpers...
If someone else does a PCB design i will happily test it out :)
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Is there anywhere where I can get all of these at the same place?
ATMEGA8-P
LM7805
HD44780
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determined to get this finished by the weekend :@
Sneak peek...
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdl.dropbox.com%2Fu%2F27267461%2Fpreview.jpg&hash=61504e663da8a7c5a43c4864a25c900ebc3c10c3)
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FINISHED!!!!!!
Isn't she beautiful? :P
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdl.dropbox.com%2Fu%2F27267461%2FTT%2520Pics%2F2011-07-16%252020.10.22.jpg&hash=9756688fac60fdb1afe4b7b4b4147e3837ee75c9) (https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdl.dropbox.com%2Fu%2F27267461%2FTT%2520Pics%2F2011-07-16%252022.37.16.jpg&hash=f6125a5c821c6b8b3829bbd162e145434e705d3f) (https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdl.dropbox.com%2Fu%2F27267461%2FTT%2520Pics%2F2011-07-16%252022.38.25.jpg&hash=c82c89409cbf263b4573c500a25fe4ba2bbdbf9a) (https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdl.dropbox.com%2Fu%2F27267461%2FTT%2520Pics%2F2011-07-16%252019.59.28.jpg&hash=446576e1ea9d6c5213aafa43cc7f422a7a520223) (https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdl.dropbox.com%2Fu%2F27267461%2FTT%2520Pics%2F2011-07-16%252019.59.44.jpg&hash=af7ff303e81a12e80ac1edffd3348e6a9f07bb4e)
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Very Nicely done Hyper you do some really nice and clean work :#1:
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Very Nicely done Hyper you do some really nice and clean work :#1:
Thank you, if a jobs worth doing, its worth doing right. :P
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Thank you, if a jobs worth doing, its worth doing right. :P
That is definatly true lol.
I would never use the board your using because of how the traces are... it would confuse the hell out of me lol.
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Thank you, if a jobs worth doing, its worth doing right. :P
Your welcome and doing it right is the only way to do things doing them right the first time around.
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That is definatly true lol.
I would never use the board your using because of how the traces are... it would confuse the hell out of me lol.
Did you see the pdf i made about the battery powered charger? i'm going to make one like that for this, so you print the layout out stick it to the board then you know exactly where everything goes :) makes it super easy
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ZOMG cannot wait, may need to get the chip off you tho hyper, sometime in the future
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Did you see the pdf i made about the battery powered charger? i'm going to make one like that for this, so you print the layout out stick it to the board then you know exactly where everything goes :) makes it super easy
did not think of that... lol
anyway in that pdf where it shows the board, all the traces going horizontal are connected except where the red circles r right.
Also, your tester looks great, I cant wait to get my avr and lcd screen so i can make it lol.
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did not think of that... lol
anyway in that pdf where it shows the board, all the traces going horizontal are connected except where the red circles r right.
Also, your tester looks great, I cant wait to get my avr and lcd screen so i can make it lol.
Yep you get the board with all the horizontal traces intact then you "break" the traces where the red squares are
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Yep you get the board with all the horizontal traces intact then you "break" the traces where the red squares are
Oh ok good then I was correct lol. I don't have any boards set up like that, radio shack doesn't seem to carry them, so this is what I did.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/matand009/0717111134.jpg
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Oh ok good then I was correct lol. I don't have any boards set up like that, radio shack doesn't seem to carry them, so this is what I did.
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l70/matand009/0717111134.jpg
Thats odd...
and what is that in the picture?
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Thats odd...
and what is that in the picture?
the bottom of the board I made of the usb charger you posted... this is getting a bit off topic now lol.
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you should post some pics of it in the thread ;)
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built it, seems to work, but im gonna need to edit the code as the on screen messages are in german now i just need the pcb layout ;)
EDIT: it seems to be detecting all resistors as paralell opposite diodes, this could be due to my wiring or because the youtube video above has different software on the AVR (mines in german theres is english), or because i had to bodge some resistors, i dont know
EDIT2: Just found some updated designs and software here, http://svn.coremelt.net/avr/semiconductor_tester/ (http://svn.coremelt.net/avr/semiconductor_tester/)
EDIT3: Ok sorted now, english, resistors working, caps working, transistors working, diodes working, uart output now included and working. cant test accuracy until i get the right resistors though. also the uart means you can use a cheap serial>usb cable instead of or as well as an lcd :)
there is also updated schematics including one that sacrifices the auto turn off but reduces the part count a bit
also fookz if its not too much trouble could you add to the pcb a connection for uart (pin 26 for tx and gnd) and a 6pin isp header? or gimme the files so i can try add these myself?
cheap serial>usb cable... how do I do that? lol I can do a full test then without the lcd screen after I get back from dropping off my car to get it painted. I only need to connect a few resistors and put in the test socket and the board part is done.
I got everything together now (except for the display) and I believe that it is working because when I put an led in and press the button, it does blink like in the video.
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cheap serial>usb cable... how do I do that? lol I can do a full test then without the lcd screen after I get back from dropping off my car to get it painted. I only need to connect a few resistors and put in the test socket and the board part is done.
I got everything together now (except for the display) and I believe that it is working because when I put an led in and press the button, it does blink like in the video.
I dunno I never managed to get the serial out to work properly
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I dunno I never managed to get the serial out to work properly
i believe in one of our posts you said something about having to connect pin 26 to all? what does that mean lol
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The latest software is meant to have uart out but when i hooked it up all i got was random symbols
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The latest software is meant to have uart out but when i hooked it up all i got was random symbols
which is exactly what im getting
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Yeah i dont think it works but i didnt write the code so i dunno why...
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Hyper, I have 2 of your chips you programmed them for me I haven't tried them yet guys I haven't gotten around moving all my test equipment to my new house. If mine doesn't work ether that's a shame, what a waste. I really hope mine will be the working one to see that this project isn't a waste of money for other people who want to make it too.
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Hyper, I have 2 of your chips you programmed them for me I haven't tried them yet guys I haven't gotten around moving all my test equipment to my new house. If mine doesn't work ether that's a shame, what a waste. I really hope mine will be the working one to see that this project isn't a waste of money for other people who want to make it too.
it wont be a waste of money, the lcd screen/display function still works (I just dont have mine yet, still waiting for it in the mail) it is just the uart that isnt working properly.
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Well. I got it all together now, all i need is one of those crappy project enclosures now to put it in.
You can read it pretty clear at the very end. The lighting in my room is crappy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TC-2N04jsn8
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Heres my final layout
(https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=38452.0;attach=5104;image)
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I still havent put mine in a project enclosure yet lol. I kinda like the way it is now. (except that the 9v battery wires keep breaking off)
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this thing is pretty cool, its kind of a component-meter.
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Hi
Does anybody know the part number of the 6 Pin IC shown as IC3 on the later schematics , it seems to replace the power down circuit transistors but I cant find any mention of it anyware.
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that is a DIP6 socket used for connecting components to be tested instead
when the transistors are not included it is because the auto off feature has been replace by just a normal switch.
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Got to build one of these. Amazing work. Why have I never ventured into this part of the forums before?!
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Hey guys, for the uart out I just realized that you need to have a Serial to TTL Level converter (Transistor Transistor Logic) [<-- incase you didnt know]
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I am currently making my own through-hole eagle layout for this. Im also going to put smd pads on it of various sizes so that i can remove an smd component from any board and hold it in place with tweezers and test it.
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Hi,
This is my first post , I only joined yesterday.
Have I miss read it or does Hyper999 actually sell pre programmed ATMEGA8 chips for use in this project and if so how do I go about obtaining some
Don
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Hi,
This is my first post , I only joined yesterday.
Have I miss read it or does Hyper999 actually sell pre programmed ATMEGA8 chips for use in this project and if so how do I go about obtaining some
Don
Yes, he will sell you a pre-programmed ATMEGA8 chip. Send him a pm about it and he will respond to you. Also, just be aware that they will be coming from the UK.
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Yes, he will sell you a pre-programmed ATMEGA8 chip. Send him a pm about it and he will respond to you. Also, just be aware that they will be coming from the UK.
Thats great news because I am in England myself
I have sent him a PM so hopefully I will get a reply soon
Regards
Don
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Hi
Does anyopne have Hypers email address
I tried to PM him but am getting no reply .
I often forget to check for private messages and guess he may have done the same
so I thought direct email might get there quicker
Regards
Don
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Give him time with the holidays he might be away... he always reploes :tup:
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OK Thanks
Don
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The latest software is meant to have uart out but when i hooked it up all i got was random symbols
It's an LCD initialization problem with some LCD controllers, I encountered on some batch of LCD's.
The LCD was not initialized properly at power on..here's the part of the code responsible for this function found in lcd-routines.c of the source code.
original code:
void lcd_init(void)
{
LCD_DDR = LCD_DDR | 0x0F | (1<<LCD_RS) | (1<<LCD_EN1); // Port auf Ausgang schalten
// muss 3mal hintereinander gesendet werden zur Initialisierung
_delay_ms(30);
LCD_PORT = (LCD_PORT & 0xF0 & ~(1<<LCD_RS)) | 0x03;
lcd_enable();
modify to this:
void lcd_init(void)
{
LCD_DDR = LCD_DDR | 0x0F | (1<<LCD_RS) | (1<<LCD_EN1); // Port auf Ausgang schalten
// muss 3mal hintereinander gesendet werden zur Initialisierung
_delay_ms(120);
LCD_PORT = (LCD_PORT & 0xF0 & ~(1<<LCD_RS)) | 0x03;
lcd_enable();
Now my problem is the new source code wont compile, whether edited or not...simply got some uart.c error...
lcd-routines.c:115: undefined reference to `uart_putc'
I don't know how to fix this..
BTW here are some picture of my built..
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi82.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj249%2FRhonn_2006%2F2012-01-12193508.jpg&hash=b7619e46bc22bf72a63e6fdf03fdd40f2b72478a)
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi82.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj249%2FRhonn_2006%2F2012-01-12193431.jpg&hash=55291d1f6ea689152cc4fb24dfab2a7350a363d9)
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi82.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj249%2FRhonn_2006%2F2012-01-12193321.jpg&hash=81aa0ab5d59a4039ab747607fbf94f2ee5e62c9b)
BR
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I finaly got mine finished off and working
I designed a small double sided PCB for it in Kicad and got 10 made up
by Seeed studio for less than $10, Its not worth etching your own at that price .
When I first tested the unit it worked fine for diodes, transistors leds and mosfets etc
but was reading high on capacitors , when I say high it was a serious ammount high
, like 60% too much . A 10uF cap would read 16uF. Then on www.mikrocontroller.net (http://www.mikrocontroller.net)
I saw a post that gave the answer . It was not easy because the forum is in German
and I only speak English , but it seems you need to change two numbers in the source
file and re compile it
it was here
*/
// unsigned int H_CAPACITY_FACTOR EEMEM = 394; // Standardwerte für M8
// unsigned int L_CAPACITY_FACTOR EEMEM = 283; // Standardwerte für M8
unsigned int H_CAPACITY_FACTOR EEMEM = 262; // Standardwerte für M8A
unsigned int L_CAPACITY_FACTOR EEMEM = 177; // Standardwerte für M8A
I had originally used the two top numbers 394 and 283
I changed them to 262 and 177 and now it works fine
Capacitors now read within there rated tolerance from 100nF to 2200uF
I put the usual 3 holes to insert components and also added three spring loaded
terminals for bigger items like TO 220
I would show you a picture of it but cant see how to add one
Don