what type of led is that can i get a close picture?
wtf i knew of this for a while hmmm
whats the difference between rapid fire and spit fire?
You lot truley are the best in the business and I am glad you have gone for the open source approach. Just one thing I don't get: where have you soldered the wire onto the LED? on the video it just doesn't show the second wire (or at least not that I can see) anyways I have a spare controller so i'll give this a go :).
thanks again
great work :tup: :tup: :tup: :tup:
i still dont see how this is possible, please just tell me, does the led ground pulse at all? thats the only way this would make sense to me...please answer so i can get some sleep tonight lol
yes to solder to the led you want to do it fast. now if hold the solder there too much it will take the casing of the led and will burn out on the next power on.
they way i do it get your wire and dip it in flux also have just a bit soder on the tip of your iron already ..
and all you do hold the wire with the flux at the end next to the led touch the led and wire with
your iron with just a bit soder on it and walah that's it.
you shoud not fight with it it should take in just a sec thats it.
Hey, im a noob. Can you give me the links for the radioshack parts I will need?You don't need anything else except a button, and that's based on personal preference.
I have a good soldering gun, wire, flux braid, and solder.
SO you have to solder it to the positive of the the SMD light 1 on the controller? Whatif the controller is controller 2?If you read the thread...
Can you link me to a button please.Give me a sec and I'll link you to a few buttons there.
And how do you put it on the bottom of the controller?
Listen :censored:head even on an old controller it would still work, STFU and get outta here.
On a lighter note, congrats Mike, it made the front page of Xbox-Scene. http://xbox-scene.com/ (http://xbox-scene.com/)
Your kidding right? Its connecting to a SOLID ground not a pulsing ground. Yes, your correct in one point, the new style controllers will fire ONE SHOT if this was wired up. It will not fire rapid pulsed shots. To tell me I don't know what I'm talking about when I clearly just showed your administrator up is absurd. Check your facts buster.
If this was the case then in theory the GROUND for the complete controller would be pulsed. Meaning all that is connected to the "ground" of the controller would rapid fire.
if it were a non pulsed ground surely one shot would still be fired?Yes, EITHER WAY, 1 shot would still be fired.
Your are correct on the NEW controllers ONE shot is fired.
Your are correct on the NEW controllers ONE shot is fired.I am so sick of you. YES it will fire. Finally you agree on something, huh? In YOUR VIDEO nothing fired. YOU SCREWED UP. STOP :censored:ing saying it's fake because YOU screwed up. DON'T even try to claim you have an old controller either, on the old one, EITHER WAY, SOMETHING FIRES.
not on your video
we will wait here patiently for the accusations to fly :rofl:
You're just digging yourself a deeper hole. You can't get out as-is, too.
My video was the old style controller. On the Video they use Video 1 is a New Style yet Video 2 is an Old Style?!?!
you want a video with out cutting i give you one.
and i never say it works on all models.
All models would be New Style and Old Style...Thats basically it.You're forgetting about WIRED controllers too. He's right just give it UP.
You do realize it's you against a whole site, right? And you're accusing an ADMIN of being a liar, correct? And let me get this straight. You run a site and you make rapid fire controllers for people, right? It FIGURES. Just stfu before you really piss off an admin.
You're forgetting about WIRED controllers too. He's right just give it UP.
Please correct me if I'm WRONG here!You've been wrong, and we have been correcting you. :taunt:
Now your talking about WIRED CONTROLLER?!?!?!!? In his VIDEO he's using wireless Controllers....now your just going off topic!
You sir, are STUPID. He said "I never said it works on ALL controllers" and you said that's only new and old version. You forgot about the wired controllers. This mod would work on them too possibly. Like he said, he never said it works on ALL controllers.
you are forgetting the many different version boards there are on both wired and wireless controller. there are 2 wired version boards and 2 wireless version boards, these are all the model controllers. kingmike stated that he did not say it worked on all these version boards
READ THE :censored:ING TOPIC. I won't be :censored:ing home until the end of the week, when I WILL BE DOING THIS.
Okay...You've got a good point...I've got a whole box of about 20 brand new controllers...I'm just going to sit here opening each one and trying this until I get one to work....In theory I'm really going to stop after like 5 though.
you can check if the controller if an old style board before opening it, under the batter terminal if it says "tp19" then its an old style boardI'm guessing TP23 means new style then? I've got 2 new here then, and a 3rd unknown at home. I'll do all 3.
Old Style I used TP19What? Ok the 2 controllers here I have, 1 I see TP23 and TP21, the other I see TP23. Which are they?
New Style I used TP26
I'm guessing TP23 means new style then? I've got 2 new here then, and a 3rd unknown at home. I'll do all 3.
Oh I get it. Thanks. I think I have all new then >_>;; Damn, looks like I may be heading to Gamestop soon :taunt:
Video It should be up in few mins.. any way i have one thing to say you got a old controller try this
if it works than good you save money. if it did not work than buy kit form this guy help him out
with his sales.
One more can i say this works i tested it on 2 diff old style controller i did not have a new style till
this morning i tested it and it don't work on new style.
that video made me ROFL, awesome
I get no results with this old stlye controller that I used....I'll keep an eye on the topic and see if anyone else gets it to work like you did... :dntknw:try swapping the wires on the switch around, its easy to get it mixed up especially if it is a 4 pin tact switch which looks like it is from what i can see in the video. if it is 4 pin then instead of soldering one wire to the left pin and one wire to the right pin, then solder one the left pin, and then one to the pin below it, if that doesn't work swap it around, use different combinations.
New Rapid Fire for all 360 controllers without Microchip!!!! This simple method only needs a wire and a button go ----->Here<----- This is so easy anyone can do it and you can get all the parts from your local radioshack!!!!
It's attached to the led just fine, but i dunno I'll try it again just cuz
So I see that it says on the Forums homepage:I see we have another person who just skims through...
So it already works on all controllers? That was fast. :clap: :rofl:
-- Hope to see this available on new style soon.
I see we have another person who just skims through...
No, it does not work on all controllers. As of now it's only on the old ones.
He JUST said that...xD, i was just going to say that
According to RDC over in the Xbox-Scene forums, this mod will ONLY work on old matrix style wireless controllers and it will only work if the controller is getting an input voltage of 2.6v. In other words, this will work with a rechargeable PnC pack while it's not charging, but it won't work with the standard 2 AA battery pack (which is running at 3.0v other than when the batteries are almost dead). Here's a link to the page with his post:It will work with a AA pack, ya can see that in the third video, but it's the battery voltage that makes the real difference.
If I have the old matrix wireless controller, is it safe to do this mod, or is there a good chance of breaking the controller?I personally wouldn't recommend it, but if you're going to use the PnC battery pack and like the speed it fires it's safe to do and isn't going to hurt anything so long as ya do it right. ;) The worst ya can do is rip up the pad/trace for the LED and have to fix it so it works again, but it wouldn't kill the controller in any way.
any reason why i shouldn't do the mod?
Just to clear up some things..
1. The picture of the controller in the OP is the newer CG version, while the ones in the videos are the older Matrix one. The LEDs in the CG are Common Cathode and the Trigger lines go high to fire, so every single reference to voltage/ground is bass ackwards with respect to that picture and is probably causing some confusion, it made me read everything twice. In reference to the Matrix controller it's correct though, but someone should change that pic. ;)
2. This is also limited by the game, as if the pulses are too fast the controller/game will only see the line as being held low all the time and not each individual pulse, so it will act like the Trigger was pulled and held, and all you'll get is one shot when pressing the button.
3. Not to take anything from the ingenuity of the mod but, compared to using a simple 555 timer circuit where ya can fine tune the speed ya need, not to mention being able to use any of the 4 player slots without having to move the wire. Also soldering to an SMT part for a beginner isn't a very easy thing be doing to their controller and could possibly damage the pad/trace/LED in the process.
4. 'In theory' it will not work to make any other buttons Rapid Fire. The ones on the CG controller ground to fire while the LED setup is + driven, and on the older version Matrix boards the Matrix setup screws that all up and on the CL version those buttons go high to fire while the LED setup is - driven.
5. This does not work on the newer Wireless CG version of board or on the newer Wired CL version board. I don't have a Matrix version Wired controller here to test, but I'd guess it also does not work on it either.
If anyone is curious what the REAL problem here is with it not working, it's the battery voltage. I tried it, it didn't work, but clearly it does from the videos, so while everyone was bickering about it working or not working I went and found out what the issue was since clearly it both does and does not work as sited from more than once source, and since no one seemed interested in why or trying too duplicate the others controller issue I was curious and did. ;)
With a PSU (3v) or AA pack (3.0v) the thing didn't work at all, but it DID work just fine with a PnC pack (2.6v). So while yes this does in fact work, it also does in fact not work.
Can anyone else that has this working, as well as not, get a voltage reading from the power source they're using? As well as I'd like to see someone else try it with a 3v regulated PSU, new and half charge AA batteries and PnC pack to double, double check this or see what results come from it? I'm fairly sure the results will be the same, just like to see it duplicated by someone else as I can duplicate it both working and not working on the same controller by just changing the battery pack.
It's just way too sporadic to be considered reliable IMHO. Good job on discovering it and all, but for the people that want a good solid Rapid Fire setup, with the option to fine tune the speed from game to game to get the most from the weapon they're using and use it on whatever controller thy happen to have, then they should look into building themselves a nice 555 timer circuit to do the job. Spend the money on a kit if ya like, it's your money, but making it yourself isn't that difficult and is much more rewarding, plus ya get to learn some about electronics along the way, and yes any of these type of mods can be made to use the Trigger for the button with just a SPDT or DPDT switch and cutting a trace.
The silver 'shield' on the RF module is just missing on later runs of the Matrix controllers, it's also missing from the RF boards in the 360 on newer ones, they're still the exact same controller/RF board, just missing that shield is all.
Many thanks for giving credit to where the controller version pics came from Nemesis and XE. ;)
I personally wouldn't recommend it, but if you're going to use the PnC battery pack and like the speed it fires it's safe to do and isn't going to hurt anything so long as ya do it right. ;) The worst ya can do is rip up the pad/trace for the LED and have to fix it so it works again, but it wouldn't kill the controller in any way.
Like RDC says it does have its drawbacks and we are looking for a better solution but our goal was to make it simple for everyone to do... Also there are just as many people having trouble doing the 55 timer method..
new method already. good lord almighty xDCyber's a God, remember? Mike (I don't know which XD) said that Cyber was working on this now too to make it work
how many guys u got in that r&d lab ahahah
maybe :D we are working on a no switch method
i'm still the godAs did I, and with new AA batteries or a solid 3v source it doesn't work. With used AA batteries it does, and it does with the PnC pack, I can duplicate it both working and not working on the same controller as stated in my earlier post. Please take a voltage reading of the battery packs you're using and see what they are as well as try a brand new set of AA batteries or a 3v PSU before dismissing it, that's just unprofessional to assume your way is right for everyone when clearly it's not, this isn't the first controller I've had opened up either and I did take the time to try different setups to find out what the deal was with it working and not working, least ya can do is the same. ;)
oh an about the power i dont know what are you all talking about i did it with recharge and AA
no diff
Hrmm does this not work on a wired controller? I tried it on an extra I had laying around and I think I fried it lol :faint:
On a side note: Though I have not tested this, using NiMh or NiCd AA batteries should give the appropriate power because each cell outputs 1.2V rather than 1.5V. The resulting 2.4V may be perfect for using this rapid fire mod.Already done and they do. ;) The only issue is with fresh AA Alkaline batteries or if ya have the PnC cable plugged in to charge the PnC pack, as the voltage is raised during that process also and causes it to not work properly.
Im gonna test this as soon as my TV is not being occupied... :sadno:
As did I, and with new AA batteries or a solid 3v source it doesn't work. With used AA batteries it does, and it does with the PnC pack, I can duplicate it both working and not working on the same controller as stated in my earlier post. Please take a voltage reading of the battery packs you're using and see what they are as well as try a brand new set of AA batteries or a 3v PSU before dismissing it, that's just unprofessional to assume your way is right for everyone when clearly it's not, this isn't the first controller I've had opened up either and I did take the time to try different setups to find out what the deal was with it working and not working, least ya can do is the same
SYSTEM, what chip is the code for?!
i'm done proving it works not work i don't care.. buy a kit of ebay the best way ...
This mod dosen't work .. sorry for taking 10 min out of all your busy days.
members to not have to be exploited by the Ebayer scalpers for a $1 chip and a few other cheap crap...
i'm done proving it works not work i don't care.. buy a kit of ebay the best way ...You still haven't proved/confirmed it doesn't work except for that remark (maybe ya have to yourself I don't know) but stated only that it does. I've duplicated both conditions on more than one Wireless Matrix controller now and while it does work provided certain criteria are met, there are circumstances where it will not work, brand new AA batteries or the PnC cable plugged up, which are both circumstances that someone might be using their controller under, but that's no reason to get in a twist over it. ;) It's a really ingenious way to get a R/F controller for practically nothing, just so long as ya follow the guidelines of it is all and are aware it's not going to work under certain circumstances.
This mod dosen't work .. sorry for taking 10 min out of all your busy days.
Maybe someone here could sell chips to AM members only for non-profit prices?
Oh, btw, a PIC programmer can be bought for $10. Or built for $2. Buying the Sparkfun $100 kit is over the top for doing your own controller mod. Now if you plan to do more PIC hobbies, then please get the $100 programmer. It makes things much easier to program from MPLAB.
i will have the chip on sale at our store by this week .:D how much
$7.99 how is that fairyes sir.
He JUST said that...Dang it, RDC lol. Beat me to it by 5 minutes, the amount of time it took me to register and type that post. Ah well.
Awesome!
So this is for the sleeper RF?
And this is all I need for that mod?
How long does shipping take?
I'll probably buy it tomorrow.
so is the normal 2 wire no chip method still legit because i still wanted to try that...
i use 2 AA re-chargeables that are never fully charged so i figured it would work?
Just wondering so i can get some reassurance before i do it...
Thanks
Yes it will work. As long as you have the old 'matrix' wireless controller.
You just need to do the soldering correctly and it will work.
Did I leave all day and come back to a thread that was supposed to be a nice two wire no chip solution to all those eBayer money making people, to a website that is now selling chips for rapid fire????....Was this whole thing planed from start...lets advertise something that works 1/2 way then construct a modchip to do it and sell it for 10 bucks....I'm very confused, give me a moment to go back two pages and read this over again...but I think I'm correct. Nice advertising methods!!
also i watched the 3rd video and lmao'ed my ass offLaughed my ass off my ass off?
What a great find. Good work guys.
I had no idea people where ebaying stuff for the other mod. Great job on putting an end to that.
Hit me up on msn later I should be on tonight.
How can I wire the switch to a button outside of the controller? I could easily do this myself, but I don't know what to do after I solder. Can you add a button to the switch for easy external pressing? Or do you have to let the switch stick out and click it when needed?read the whole thread, several people have said how to determine the controller style, and i dont really understand your first question.
Also, how can I tell if I have the correct controller?
Thanks.
is it a requirement to use 30 gauge wire?No, as long as your wire is small enough to solder to the TINY solder points on the controller board. Also the wire must not be so big that the controller will not go back together.
There is no radioshack locally and no local hardware/stores have that type of wire only like 28 and lower?
So am I able to use a different type of wire?
Thanks
my Controller is working is just the chip was getting to hot and shorthing out the controller.
any way as of now i got 683 work but i have open pin problem that means the rapidfire is always
on can't be turn off so need some more testing i been working with 2 other people on this for 3 days
now so as of Now the code is no good and the will not work till i get some result.
This gose for both chip and hex file that was release.
hey everyone. im about to try this mod. im kinda new to all this so if anyone can give me any advide, pointers or anyhing would be useful. i just went and got a switch and some 30-gauge wrapping wire. what else do i need and what should i do step by step. thanx to everyone who helpstake the wire and solder it to the switch, once done solder one lead to the GROUND on the first person led, solder the other lead to the middle pin for the trigger. done.
take the wire and solder it to the switch, once done solder one lead to the GROUND on the first person led, solder the other lead to the middle pin for the trigger. done.
what kind of switch are you using? and sides i think on the first page there is a good illustrationits a mini momentary switchthe bottem of it looks kinda like a mini plug in
Hey everyone^^
I do that Mod too today and it works finde:)
But my problem is,it works only in CoD4,right? :(
nope it should work with all fps games that use the r trigger to fire
okay i dont really know how to solder or what i need for it so could someone like gimme exact directions or something?LOL :laughing:
here the basic installation for the right trigger to do rapid fire with a on/off switchso do i need that chip shown in the top right of the pic? or rly just a momentary switch and 30 gauge wrapping wire? and how am i supposed to get the trigger through the controller so i can use it during gameplay when the controllers back together?
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi167.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu136%2Fkingmike_001%2FDigrams2.jpg&hash=af7d0de08585da46cf7b4114fd643239dac04ad3)
so do i need that chip shown in the top right of the pic? or rly just a momentary switch and 30 gauge wrapping wire? and how am i supposed to get the trigger through the controller so i can use it during gameplay when the controllers back together?Read >_>
Does this three wire kit have the same problems with voltage that the original posted method had?
I jut bought the 3 wire kit, and does the chip come programmed?
http://wiredinput.com/ShopUSA/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=76 (http://wiredinput.com/ShopUSA/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=76)
Does the chips work with wired controllers? Because I think I am going to try to do it on my wired then if that works then one of my wireless.
This Mod Works on old and new Style Wireless. it has been tested on both type wireless but not wired ones.
KingMike_OS I want to say thanks for making this.
I am ordering a few of the chips from your site to install on some friends controllers.
I have a question. I dont want to get the kits as all I need other then the chips are the buttons. (I already have more wire and solder then I know what to do with)
I have a local electronics shop that has a large selection of buttons. they actually have 5 different 7mm tact buttons. Is there anything special I need or are the signals low enough that it wont matter witch ones I get? :beg:
get the 7mm tact buttons
where can i fing a :censored: button? lol andhow can u tell if your controller is a the new version or not? Will a hot glue gun work as well as well as the sottering gun or do u have to use a sottering gun? What else can i use instead of a sottering gun?
yo, i want to do the spit-fire controller mod. i found it on hackaday.com posted apr 21st. it was the black comtroller. i take it u need a "chip". im new to this but i was wondering where i can get the instructions and a list parts to the spit-fire mode controller.
I found anew way if this is giving you problems it worked on old and new style controllers
follow this and it will rapid fire(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg142.imageshack.us%2Fimg142%2F6388%2Ftestyt1.jpg&hash=46177f617b2bf27cb3ffbdcd8c481b160637c13b)
I did find this my self please give me credit
Listen up. I'm Xboxexpert and I run www.thexboxexpert.com which sells professionally modified Rapid Fire Controllers. I was ecstatic to see this post until I actually tried it. My results are in the YouTube video below. I've also tried it on a NEW Style controller with the same results....IT DOESN'T WORK.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yj-3ptc6XYo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yj-3ptc6XYo)
listen i need help bad like tonight.. but i soldered the wires and its shooting automatically.. like by itself in rapid fire without me hitting the button.. please help what is going on?
thanks
Actually.I'm not really sure how this whole thing works, but wouldn't i make sense that it works when you solder to the ground on the rumble, cuz that would pulse then whenever the controller rumbles? Or is that not how it works?
I figured something out.
You can actually solder the wire that should be on the - of the LED, to anything..
i solder it to the ground of the rumble.
Even the metal on the analog sticks works!
Hi, I Tried this Mod and it works perfectly!
I soldered a wire to player1 LED, Middle pin Right Triggers, From a ON/OFF Push button i drilled in the back of the controller!
If anybody wants me to, i can post videos/pics of it :D
so can any1 find out how to make it work for the new wired controllerI'm sure if it does. If no one's posted by Monday then I'll try it myself and get back here on what happens.
I'm sure if it does. If no one's posted by Monday then I'll try it myself and get back here on what happens.
NICE wilson08 much more easy to understand for those that are like uhh u kno..lol, yhh ... Thanks !
Job Well Done..
what size wire did you use cause i have some and i think its to big???/
Where do I look for 016 or 014?
FrankieB4 the ground is on the left of the LED, and thanks Blazinkaos i have no problem waiting i have to work as well so i'll be checking back when i have chance. I'll be sure to get that 15-20 soldering iron and i have the 30 guage wire now. thanks again.
Where do I look for 016 or 014?Right under the battery pack for example FrankieB4 pic shows the barcode see were 014 is in red...
now what if you wanted to use the right trigger for rapid fire? is there a way to make it so that the switch activates or deactivates rapid fire for the right trigger?I believe that has to do with a sleeper but im not sure. LIke if you were to do that i think... you would need sleeper as well..so u can turn the rapid fire off..
is the method using a 555 timer different from the kits you can buy on ebay? if so can anyone point me towards the instructions for that? i kinda want to compare all the methods and see which one i want to try...
Guys it seriously worth just buying the chip set from AcidMods King and his web sight http://wiredinput.com/ShopUSA/ I bought the chip set for $13 I have never solder before and got it up and running in less than an hour. It is completely worth it because it works on old and new style controllers and you don't have to worry about burning out your LED light or having it on controller one or your battery's being used. Skip the headaches. You have to solder more but the spots are easy to solder.Ooo i would suggest trying to practice soldering before trying this. Practice on a old mobo of something and see if you comfortable soldering.
A friend and I tried this mod today just for giggles.
First of all, it doesn't seem to work even a first-gen wired controller.
We used a TP19 old-style wireless controller next. Soldered the wires up, and it would work every once in a while, but not consistently.
We then remembered the note about not using fresh AA batteries....so we snatched the AA's out of the TV remote, popped em in the controller....now it works great every time.
Just for info, we soldered to the left side of the P1 LED.
So, if you guys have problems with the mod...don't use wired or rechargeable, make sure you're using USED AA batteries.
Okay, this is what I have so far. I have built a controller using both methods. Building the controller with the 555 timer, capacitors, transistors and resistors worked extremely well, but it cost over ten times as much, took well over ten times as long and the finished mod is rather large. Unless you know how to freeform a circuit without using a PCB board, it's almost impossible to fit it into a controller without sacrificing a rumble motor and even then with freeforming it still takes some planning on how to freeform to fit it in the controller, but again, it worked flawlessly.
no i didnt have it backwards. i was hoping we could make a list of usable controllers but guess not.
anyone know what the difference is in the old type boards?
Turns out after trying to mod two of my kids friends controllers, we are dealing with several different versions, not just "old" and "new". I just got lucky on the first two of mine that I tried. The two controllers I tried today were one old and one new version. The old version belonging to this guy looked almost identical to mine except it had more black on the contact circles where the controller buttons are pressed to the board, and the LED was brighter? I could not get the older controller to even give me one shot with the mod button? The newer controller obviously did not work. I just ordered 4 chips from http://wiredinput.com/ShopUSA/ I'm Tired of messin around, these chips should do the trick!!! Good Luck!Yh the chips are definately worth it, the "sleeper" mod is great - no external buttons
In addition has anyone heard if the sleep works perfectly at alll planning on wanting that done...Yes works perfectly, everytime!
I haven't seen a difference between switches. A switch works on either DC or AC. Just make sure the switch can handle the voltage. Now, which mod where you guys talking about that alows you to use the trigger and not install a switch? I've read a reference to it somewhere but can't nail it down. I noticed the trigger soldered directly to the board under the drigger mechanisme so there is no way to seperate the mechanisme without taking the chance of seriously &%*&$*@ up the board or trigger. You would have to seperate the circuit to the trigger and bypass it with a switch. Unless someone has any other ideas?its called the sleeper rapid fire mod...its sold on the shop site wired input...
Yes works perfectly, everytime!Thanks wilson... :yess:
KingMike will edit this with the images needed... We have been holding back on this for months now but it is time to stop the bull :censored: theives making money off of our members...
how can u tell that a controller is a wireless cg board
hi every body i have a new cg controller and i have a question does i need absolutely a chip 555 for it work on a new cg or there is another solution thanks :psp:sleeper mod from acid mods store. get the kit. its like 13 bucks.
For your first question.... use the search button.^^^^ Gotta help out the new ppl u kno...
second, you can get them at ANY Radio Shack or local electronics store.
:winker:
. I did not take these pictures, I found them on another website.
But what kind of Wire/cable should i use? does it matter? Plz helpWhat u mean more detail.
But what kind of Wire/cable should i use? does it matter? Plz help
But what kind of Wire/cable should i use? does it matter? Plz help
Ok hey everyone Just decided to register I been reading through most of the threads here and got everything soldered done. it works and all i just had to take out the right rumble cause it was touching switch or wires and wasnt working that way but no biggie i cant tell a difference. Only problem is my right Bumper is not working. The throw grenade or throw back grenade, at first i thought it dont matter but it really does lol...any advice?
Hey i got a question,I dnt think that is the right button to be using for this mod.
Im using a 125VAC button, and wired it to the middle thing for the trigger and the player one LED.
All worked fine.
But when i go into COD4, it seems that the button shoots slower than the normal RT.
It seems to lag, like if i hold it down it will shoot 4, wait half a second, shoot 8, wait half a second ect.
But with the RT, it constantly shoots just fine.
Could it be the gun im using? Does this mod only work with certain guns in the game? I forgot what one i was using and i shut my xbox off due to it getting really hot.
So, did i do something wrong, or does it only work with certain guns?
EDIT: I do have a Matrix Wireless.
Hey i got a question,
Im using a 125VAC button, and wired it to the middle thing for the trigger and the player one LED.
All worked fine.
But when i go into COD4, it seems that the button shoots slower than the normal RT.
It seems to lag, like if i hold it down it will shoot 4, wait half a second, shoot 8, wait half a second ect.
But with the RT, it constantly shoots just fine.
Could it be the gun im using? Does this mod only work with certain guns in the game? I forgot what one i was using and i shut my xbox off due to it getting really hot.
So, did i do something wrong, or does it only work with certain guns?
EDIT: I do have a Matrix Wireless.
hey i did the mod, but once i get into the game, my controller just gets stuck on rapid fire, and wont stop shooting. can some1 give a solution to this?
:drunk:
LOOK FELLAS, I have been reading the posts for a while now and it seems people are having problems and issues with wiring the momentary switch to the LED or the other "reds" on the board. Well I am going to tell you the easiest way to do it. DO NOT even mess with the LED or any other place on the board! Follow these easy steps.
1) Go to radio shack and buy a momentary switch, and nothing else.
2) dismantle the controller that you would like to use
3) remove the right rumble (as you are looking at it as it is sitting on a table with the back up)
4) cut the wires off of the rumble
5) cut the plug off of the rumble wires
6) solder those wires on to the momentary switch
7) drill a hole where the rumble was, and mount the switch
8) take one of the wires from one side of the momentary switch, and solder to the middle prong on the trigger (just like everyone else does)
9) SOLDER THE OTHER WIRE FROM THE MOMENTARY SWITCH TO THE BOARD WHERE THE RED FROM THE RUMBLE PLUG GOES THROUGH THE BOARD! (if you solder it to the black side nothing will happen when you test it. It will shoot normal. No big deal remove solder and solder to the other prong.)
10) test
11) reassemble controller and enjoy.
If you want, you can just mail me some money as props! LOL :clap: :hifive:
There you go its that simple and it will cost you a whopping......................... $2.00 !!!!!!
dose this work with a plug and play kit or only batteriesREAD... for [deity]'s sake...your like the 80 millionth person to ask that. yes you need to have batteries or like a half dead rechargable...
I'm new so dont give me crap please, but how do I know if my controller is old or new?https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=24699.0 (https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=24699.0)
:drunk:
LOOK FELLAS, I have been reading the posts for a while now and it seems people are having problems and issues with wiring the momentary switch to the LED or the other "reds" on the board. Well I am going to tell you the easiest way to do it. DO NOT even mess with the LED or any other place on the board! Follow these easy steps.
1) Go to radio shack and buy a momentary switch, and nothing else.
2) dismantle the controller that you would like to use
3) remove the right rumble (as you are looking at it as it is sitting on a table with the back up)
4) cut the wires off of the rumble
5) cut the plug off of the rumble wires
6) solder those wires on to the momentary switch
7) drill a hole where the rumble was, and mount the switch
8) take one of the wires from one side of the momentary switch, and solder to the middle prong on the trigger (just like everyone else does)
9) SOLDER THE OTHER WIRE FROM THE MOMENTARY SWITCH TO THE BOARD WHERE THE RED FROM THE RUMBLE PLUG GOES THROUGH THE BOARD! (if you solder it to the black side nothing will happen when you test it. It will shoot normal. No big deal remove solder and solder to the other prong.)
10) test
11) reassemble controller and enjoy.
If you want, you can just mail me some money as props! LOL :clap: :hifive:
There you go its that simple and it will cost you a whopping......................... $2.00 !!!!!!
must be matrix
thankyou, i might give the more advanced methods a go, because my Xbox elite pad is the new cg, but im really new to this :wacko:
order a chip from here https://acidmods.com/ShopUSA/ that is the easiest way. and there are a few diferent options ofered by the store.
it must be a chip of some sort for RF on a cg.
is there any possible way to make this work on new controllers? I ordered a few online and don't know if they are new or old versions.
is there any possible way to make this work on new controllers? I ordered a few online and don't know if they are new or old versions.
just wanted to add can you get you play with your gamer tag name on the controller after you hook it up cause i can't it will only work with player name or defalt name let know cause iam having
trouble with this thanks
thanks for the advice, i'll give that a go now, I was suprised when the LED broke the second time though because i literally touched the LED for a second.
Is there any other point I can solder this to that will make it rapid fire no matter what player I am? Attaching it to the LED only works if the LED is on.
Not sure if this is a stupid question so flame if needed but please answer
normal open or normal closed momentary switch
or does it even matter i just havent seen this issue addresed have N-O on hand
Thanks Skizzik
do you have to have 30 gage wire to do this. if so where can i pick some of this up.
cause i have 20 gage or 22 gage wire. thanks again
ok i got it working. but it only play on my mu and not my hdd can any body help
cause this :censored: sucks :censored: let me know peace out
joker
so i have to run batterys in my controller, so i can't put my charger kit in it.
and no iam not banned from xbox live, i can play with another gamertag but not
with mine. let me know if something happened to you before. thanks joker :confused:
you can use the play and charge kit, but it wont rapid fire during charging, nor will it work if it is fully charged.
as far as the gammer tag? that is the strangest thing I have ever heard of???
first off, the switch you bought is crap be carefull not to over heat it. anytime I used these switches they fail.
as for the trigger not working and your push button firing rapid/disconecting/screen jumps sparaticly, this is what happens when the middle and bottom trigger pins are bridged together. check that and make sue the top and bottom posts are not touching at all. you are only making contact to the center pin.
BTW I sent you an e-mail from your store front contact form regarding work (in case you didn't get it)I dont run the shop, thats king mikes dept.
I grabbed a new controller and was precise on tacking one wire to the middle trigger pin and to the red pin of the rumble connection. I had the same results with random shooting, fire trigger not working on it's own and continuously firing without pushing any buttons.
Now my other question, does this mod work with all games? I have only tested in COD:WAW. Would that have an affect on it not working properly? :confused:
Pictures: http://www.xperties.net/photos/v/pcs/360controller/
Larger pictures can be seen to the right by clicking on link "Full size: 2048x1536"
Testing the switch; Should I use a test light? I'll grab one of those switches you suggested but so far mod is not working, or at least tested only in COD5.
Alright, I didn't know my controller was a CG and modded it, now the right trigger won't work at all. Any suggestions?
Help...my led thing came off during soldering. any other place i can solder the ground? even the 2nd spot looks very tricky. i lost the led for player 1 but the controller still works. any ideas? thanks
your controller now has brain damage i love this line out of all the posts i saw. :rofl:
any who yeah i tried it its not simple and for the faint of heart, a lot of LEDs were lost out there in the world of war fight. And on that note i figerd bucket get a grip on it and pull the trigger as fast as u can and get better at it. but for those of u that wasted a good controller i have some bit of help.
Hears what u do,
here
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi167.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu136%2Fkingmike_001%2Ftest.jpg&hash=ffea7938cee08e1c8c65ea4d007fa67a1d68b9f6)
come on dude, we are trying to better our controllers, not destroy them, if you tin the wire before going to the led this is actually very simple.LOL nice responce.
15 watt soldering iron. fine tip is prefured
clean sober stedy hands
if you dont have those two things dont even think about it
I have done this mod and the controller works for the first clip, fires really fast (full clip in a second for the gewher in COD5), but the next clip fires a full clip in about 4 seconds. its really weird. although it works for COD4. Anyone know if there another way to do a rf for COD5 other than the pic or 555 way. thxNo, there isn't a way without a chip... CoD5 is patched so the rapid fire has to be timed, and below the limit.
Hey, First time on this forum as a registered user. I did this mod with my old matrix 360 controller, i actually ruined two of the led's and the pad with corresponds with the two :boxed: but not a biggy. I used the rumble idea modded matt had. was sufficient for my gaming needs. But now after i have reassembled my controller it constantly is disconnecting from my 360 :wacko: only when i hit a button. Not the "A" button, any in general.... Any ideas guys?Un-solder everything, then look to see if there is any solder splashes on the board!
Haha.. Don't worry about it, Is There any other types of switches, cheaper, smaller maybe..?any "push to make" / "non-locking switch" will work :)
Thanks..
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.360-hq.com%2Fimages%2Ftutorials%2Fuploads%2Fea44ad7b271eddf9bb978a922f602a813c40a24e.jpg&hash=b24ac69c23442bcbb2d70c6c140284c37e356d13)
is the large silver thinge on the front or the back of the controller?
This looks amazing, so in turn I had to try it out. I have never soldered before so I just taught myself yesterday over the course of 8 hours, Made a few wires that worked well for the audio on my computer and figured it was time to try this. I have soldered on the ground for the LED and the middle pin trigger, hooked both up to a 3A 125 toggle, started it up and tried it with a random game. No Luck. I have re soldered both connections several dozen times thinking I have not made a full circuit, Still nothing. Controller still works perfect, and yes its the same as what is necessary (verified by looking at the serial to the right of the right analog on your video and mine, both match up)
I have also tried the other Ground in the middle of the diagram, No Luck. What could I be missing?
Thank you for any and all help, Much Appreciated.
I understand that but as I said I verified by looking at the video and my motherboard matches the numbers that they have
:drunk:Hi Im Fairly new to this and i just had one question
LOOK FELLAS, I have been reading the posts for a while now and it seems people are having problems and issues with wiring the momentary switch to the LED or the other "reds" on the board. Well I am going to tell you the easiest way to do it. DO NOT even mess with the LED or any other place on the board! Follow these easy steps.
1) Go to radio shack and buy a momentary switch, and nothing else.
2) dismantle the controller that you would like to use
3) remove the right rumble (as you are looking at it as it is sitting on a table with the back up)
4) cut the wires off of the rumble
5) cut the plug off of the rumble wires
6) solder those wires on to the momentary switch
7) drill a hole where the rumble was, and mount the switch
8) take one of the wires from one side of the momentary switch, and solder to the middle prong on the trigger (just like everyone else does)
9) SOLDER THE OTHER WIRE FROM THE MOMENTARY SWITCH TO THE BOARD WHERE THE RED FROM THE RUMBLE PLUG GOES THROUGH THE BOARD! (if you solder it to the black side nothing will happen when you test it. It will shoot normal. No big deal remove solder and solder to the other prong.)
10) test
11) reassemble controller and enjoy.
If you want, you can just mail me some money as props! LOL :clap: :hifive:
There you go its that simple and it will cost you a whopping......................... $2.00 !!!!!!