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Console Modding------ ( Here you can talk about your favorite Consoles ) => Xbox One => Xbox One controllers/Xbox One Rapid fire Controllers => Topic started by: RDC on December 04, 2013, 04:05:17 PM

Title: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on December 04, 2013, 04:05:17 PM
The new XB1 controller is a CG (Common Ground) setup for all of the Buttons. The Triggers are also in a setup where they go Lo when pressed, but they are a bit more complex than the 10k Potentiometer style that its 360 predecessor sported, more detail on those later.

1537 BUTTON/POWER BOARD TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1537TBT.jpg)

1537 BUTTON/POWER BOARD BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1537TBB.jpg)

1537 MCU BOARD TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1537BBT.jpg)

1537 MCU BOARD BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1537BBB.jpg)


If any button is wished to be duplicated, it's just a matter of one side of the new button going to any Ground spot, then the other side going to the button line that you want to duplicate. The connectors J5 and J6 are the best place to solder up wires for all of the buttons, with the exceptions of B, LSC and RSC. The B button has a Via, as well as a solder pad at D14 directly beneath it that can be used. Then the LSC and RSC connections can be made right on the solder joints for them.

If a Trigger is wished to be duplicated, it will get done the same way, one side of the new button will go to Ground, the other side to the LT or RT line, but install a 10ohm Resistor on one side or the other of the new Tact switch so it's not a direct short to Ground when the Tact is pressed. There are no really great places to solder up wires for the LT and RT lines, the only options being a Via, the RC filter after the Hall Sensor (R42/C38 for LT, R39/C36 for RT) or an MCU lead.

(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/XB1ArcadeTriggers.jpg)

For any unfamiliar with my naming scheme..

A = A Button
B = B Button
X = X Button
Y = Y Button
DU = D-pad Up
DD = D-pad Down
DL = D-pad Left
DR = D-pad Right
LB = Left Bumper
RB = Right Bumper
LT = Left Trigger
RT = Right Trigger
LSC = Left Stick Click, Left Stick's button
RSC = Right Stick Click, Right Stick's button
VW = View (Back)
GU = Guide
MN = Menu (Start)
SY = Sync
LSX = Left Stick X-Axis (left/right)
LSY = Left Stick Y-Axis (up/down)
RSX = Right Stick X-Axis (left/right)
RSY = Right Stick Y-Axis (up/down)


FUNCTION - TRACE COLOR

DR - Red w/Black
DU - Yellow w/Black
DD - Green w/Black
DL - Blue w/Black
SY - Dark Purple
LB - Pink
RB - Purple
GU - White w/Green
A - Green
B - Red
X - Blue
Y - Yellow
VW - Light Blue
MN - Medium Blue
LSC - Pink w/White
RSC - Purple w/White
LT - Light Blue w/Light Red
RT - Light Red w/Light Blue


J1/J5 Connector Pinout

1 - RUMBLE MOTOR+
2 - DR
3 - DU
4 - DD
5 - DL
6 - SY
7 - LED IR x 2
8 - 5v USB
9 - LB
10 - D+ USB
11 - POWER OK / SHUTDOWN
12 - D- USB
13 - GROUND
14 - GROUND


J2/J6 Connector Pinout NOTE: "Wired" from here on means connected with the microUSB cable.

1 - V+ (3v Wired), (Battery Voltage Wireless)
2 - LED (under GU, does not drive LED directly)
3 - GROUND
4 - 3.3v
5 - RB
6 - GU (thru D27) Only Guide will work if J2/J6 pin 6 is used for new/alternate Guide button. Use Cathode side of D27 on Power/Button board or controller will not power on when it's pressed.
7 - USB Cable LED
8 - A
9 - X
10 - Y
11 - VW
12 - MN
13 - PNC DETECTION
14 - GROUND


TEST POINTS NOTE: If it doesn't say power source, don't use it to power something.

TP1 - D- USB
TP2 - D+ USB
TP3 - 3.3v (Wired),
TP4 - 0v (Wired),
TP5 - 5v USB
TP6 - 3.3v (Wired),
TP7 - 3.5v, RUMBLE MOTOR+ (switched power source)
TP8 - 3.3v (Wired),
TP9 - 3.3v (switched power source on battery, constant when Wired)
TP10 - 3.3v (Wired),
TP11 - V+ (3v Wired), (Battery Voltage Wireless)
TP12 - 0v (Wired),
TP13 - 0v (Wired),
TP14 - PNC DETECTION
TP15 - 0v (Wired),
TP16 - GUIDE (2.6v not pressed, 0.5v pressed)
TP17 - 3.3v (Wired),
TP18 - USB 5v DETECT (2.95v)
TP19 - 0v (Wired),
TP20 - 0v (Wired),
TP21 - GROUND
TP22 - GROUND
TP23 - 0v (Wired)
TP24 - GROUND
TP25 - 3.3v (Wired),
TP26 - GROUND
TP27 - LT MOTOR+
TP28 - HEAVY MOTOR+
TP29 - RT MOTOR+
TP30 - LIGHT MOTOR+
TP31 - 0v (Wired),
TP32 - 0v (Wired),
TP33 - 0v (Wired),
TP34 - 0v (Wired),
TP35 - 0v (Wired),


My Schematic* of the Button/Power Board - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1_1537_TOP_BOARD.pdf (https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1_1537_TOP_BOARD.pdf)


My Schematic** of the MCU Board - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1%201537%20BOTTOM%20BOARD.pdf (https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1%201537%20BOTTOM%20BOARD.pdf)

* Information will be updated when/if I get them scoped and/or figured out.
** Some of the MCU pinouts are guesses for now, I'd need to put the Logic Analyzer on them to see exactly what they are doing.




STICKS - The Sticks are the same 10k POT style as previous controllers, but are new and smaller than the 360 versions. They have a 1.8v AN+ that comes from a Regulator (U8) and it's also the vRef for U1 on the MCU board.


TRIGGERS - The Triggers use Linear Hall Sensors now, U10 (RT) and U11 (LT). They have 3 pins, 1 - VDD (power), 2 - Output, 3 - VSS (ground). The VDD for them comes from U9, which is turned on/off by U1 at 125Hz, 8ms period, On ~1.4ms, Off ~6.6ms (~18% Duty Cycle). This is done mainly to save power, but it also makes them a little harder to tinker with, but not impossible. (more later)


POWER - The Power/Button board has 3 separate Buck/Boost circuits for power management.

U1 is for when the USB cable is attached, it takes the 5v and knocks it down to ~3v for the other two circuits.
U2 is for a 3.5v source that powers the LED, IR LEDs and the Rumble motors. It's TP7 on the MCU board.
U3 is for the 3.3v source that powers pretty much everything on the MCU board. It's TP9 on the MCU board.

(more on the PnC pack/cable when I have them to tear down)


Clean PCB Scans.

BUTTON/POWER BOARD TOP CLEAN
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1537TBTCLEAN.jpg)


BUTTON/POWER BOARD BOTTOM CLEAN
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1537TBBCLEAN.jpg)


MCU BOARD TOP CLEAN
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1537BBTCLEAN.jpg)


MCU BOARD BOTTOM CLEAN
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1537BBBCLEAN.jpg)



PLAY & CHARGE PACK

The PnC battery pack this time around is a 3v Lipo, 1400mAH, 4.2Wh. The actual cell is 3.7v and 2.33Wh, so where does the 4.2Wh come from..?

(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/PnCPackApart.jpg)

..from the other 2.33Wh cell in there that is in parallel with the first one.

(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/PnCPackDualBatts.jpg)

The PnC pack uses the same contacts as the AA batteries for sending power to the controller. The 4 pin connector is for 5v and I2C communication between the charging circuit and the MCU in the controller.

(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/PnCPackCharger1.jpg)

The charging circuit this time around is built into the PnC pack, and the IC responsible for the battery charging is a Texas Instruments BQ24250.

(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/PnCPackCharger2.jpg)

PnC CHARGE BOARD TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/PnCBoardTop.jpg)

PNC CHARGE BOARD BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/PnCBoardBottom.jpg)

PnC CHARGE BOARD TOP CLEAN
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/PnCBoardTopCLEAN.jpg)

PnC CHARGE BOARD BOTTOM CLEAN
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/PnCBoardBottomCLEAN.jpg)

My Schematic of the 1556 PnC Battery Pack ROUGH DRAFT - https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Schematics/XB1%201556%20PnC%20Pack%20DRAFT.pdf
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans and Traces
Post by: Rodent on December 04, 2013, 04:27:47 PM
Very nice work as always thank you RDC 
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans and Traces
Post by: KingMike_OS on December 04, 2013, 04:35:19 PM
Thank you RDC   :#1:
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans and Traces
Post by: GhoSt on December 04, 2013, 07:09:39 PM
very saucy, I'm going to have to pick one of these up at some stage now.
Out of curiosity what do you use to take such level scans?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans and Traces
Post by: RDC on December 04, 2013, 10:42:33 PM
Welcome guys.


@ GhoSt - Mainly I use a level PCB, because that's really the only way to get a level scan of one. ;)

Being flat on the scan bed isn't as important as being parallel to it, as long as you're not too far away from it.

If you have components that are in the way that make the PCB sit at too much of an angle, a little bit of an angle is usually alright, but if it's too much then you have a couple of options..

1- Remove some components so they allow the PCB to sit more level. In the case of this Button/Power board the Bumper switches are removed. Then the height differences between the remaining components are level enough.

2- Use some brace or counter weights on the back side so the PCB will 'appear' level to the scan bed. This was done with some Quarters on the CG2 scans here. https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,34543.0.html (https://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php/topic,34543.0.html)  They can be seen on the front scan at the Headset connector being used to hold that edge of the PCB up so it's level to the scan bed. Then on the back side scan, you can see them thru the center mounting hole, where they are being used to balance the PCB on the Rumble, PnC and Headset connectors so the board stays level and doesn't sit all lop sided like it would if the counter weight wasn't back there.

If you meant the hardware being used, it's a dinosaur Scanjet 3570c, and they are scanned at 1200dpi.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans and Traces
Post by: rafaliyo86 on December 05, 2013, 12:51:36 AM
RDC you are the best :drunk:
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: Modded Matt on December 21, 2013, 08:15:33 PM
b button trace is not on the id list?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on December 21, 2013, 08:20:00 PM
PLAY & CHARGE CABLE

The PnC cable has a Bi-Color (Amber/White) LED in it for showing the charging/charged state of the PnC Pack, along with a few other components and a 4-layer PCB.

Pin 4 of the microUSB connector is used for changing the LED, 0v = Amber, 3.3v = White.

PnC CABLE
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/PnCCable1.jpg)

(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/PnCCable2.jpg)


HEADSET

The Headset connector this go around uses a 12 pin connector, that will more than likely do plenty more before all is said and done as it's overkill. The connector has the Audio Codec chip, a Texas Instruments TLV320AIC3204 and a PICLF26K22 inside it along with other support components for doing signal processing.

HEADSET AUDIO BOARD TOP
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1564Top.jpg)

HEADSET AUDIO BOARD BOTTOM
(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1564Bottom.jpg)

The Microphone and Speaker connections, wire colors, at least for now, are..

GND = Ground, Copper
MIC = Microphone, White
HPR = Headphone Right, Black, Speaker -
HPL = Headphone Left, Blue, Speaker +
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: BattleBeaverCustoms on January 19, 2014, 05:45:52 AM
RDC - Great scans and traces as always. I know there are tons of guys doing some form of a 2.5mm mod to the Mic Puck to use 3rd party headsets. I actually do one myself by installing a small 2.5mm port where the wire stop sits. Ive seen guys say to drop out the black wire (HPR) to essentially let the Speaker and Mic Share a ground since the aftermarket headsets use a 3 pole plug and not a 4 to allow true stereo from the puck to the headset.

question, can anything be changed to alter the voltage and increase speaker volume? Can a resistor be taken off and bypassed?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on January 19, 2014, 09:39:04 AM
No, not like that there isn't.

The TLV chip is using the HPR and HPL in a BTL configuration, like bridging the Left and Right outputs of a car amp so you get more power, but also mono sound. Since the XB1 headset only has one speaker, this is why that was most likely done. Using only one side or the other is a Single Ended setup, and naturally has less power, so less volume, but it's also incorrect to do that as the TLV has not been reconfigured to output that way.

Everything on that TLV chip is done Digitally, from how it gets it's signal to how it's setup internally to use that signal as well as the max gain of said signal. It's not just a simple amplifier, it's a pretty complex DAC, AMP and mess of things. The only part that's Analog where changing some passive component's value might do anything is at it's outputs, but even then you're not going to get any kind of noticeable difference for the work involved there.

Until some 3rd party company gets up to speed, or some crazy with a Logic Analyzer and nothing better to do for a couple weeks figures it all out and codes up some chip to reconfigure the TLV (not likely), the only real options are to use the stock headset, deal with the lower volume or run a 4th wire so the headset speaker gets driven properly like the stock one is, and at that point just using the stock one is the better option.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: FOOKz™ on January 20, 2014, 11:46:25 AM
Thanks again man. Also Glad to see they are using lithium batteries instead of Nickel-Cadmium.


Note: Like RDC says a lot of the stuff is overkill on the XB1 system hardware. Us modders can exploit the extra capabilities of the hardware.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: light-of-jesus on January 20, 2014, 08:45:13 PM
Great work as always RDC.

RDC I was wondering if you knew at what voltage, as the batteries are depleted from use, does the controller shut off?

Thanks
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on January 20, 2014, 09:28:33 PM
The way the XB1 controller's power setup works isn't quite like the 360 controller, this one has been done a bit better. The power comes from either 2x AA or the PnC pack that uses 2 x 3.7v Lipo batteries in parallel, similar to the 360 deal, but here these are used to power a couple of DC-DC converters that power everything inside the controller, so you always have 3.3v and 3.5v to the controller. So no matter what voltage the batteries are at, within the DC-DC useable range as well as how M$ has the battery voltage detection setup it's always 3.3v. There is also a 3rd DC-DC converter, but it's just to knock down the USB 5v to 3v for the other 2 DC-DC to use when the PnC cable is connected, just mentioning it for the sake of completeness. 

With the PnC pack, you'll never see anything lower than 3v from it, as it has a 3v internal Reg, but the battery protection circuit that's built into it kills it before that to protect the cells from under voltage issues. All of that battery monitoring is done digitally with that thing, so it's always 3v until it croaks. I'd have to poke around in there for a bit to figure that one out exactly.

With the AA batteries, they work down to around 2v or so before the controller doesn't care for them any more, but because of the DC-DC converters the controller gets 3.3v the entire time, so a fresh set of AA that give around 3.3v or ones run down until they're around 2v or so, the controller always gets 3.3v to it.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: GrammatonKlerik on January 21, 2014, 09:16:14 AM
RDC. So in light of the trigger fix thread being deleted shortly after I presented my reasonings for why your trigger replacement circuit is likely causing damage to the sensors leading to their premature failure, I thought I would offer you the opportunity to explain it here.  If this forum's policy is ignorance is bliss at the expense of its forum members then so be it. But as somebody who I believe is an engineer you know data is data and I hope you will have the confidence to hear me out and let you decide for yourself if my findings are accurate.

So in light of the thread being restored, I won't repeat myself here other than to say I believe the recommended load resistor should be as high as possible in terms of resistance while still allowing the MCU to register a trigger pull.  Through the use of a trim-pot, I was able to empirically discover that this ideal resistance is roughly 330 ohms.  With a 330 ohm load resistor, there will be no functional difference from the user's perspective, but it will put much less stress on the sensor which I believe is a very wise thing to do given the fact that nobody here knows the actual part# and thus it's output current capability.

On a completely different note.  I would be interested in your take on how to best disable wireless functionality.  Do you know if the Y1 oscillator is required by the Wifi/Security chip on the castellated board to function properly or is it only used for upconverting the baseband to the 2.4Ghz carrier frequency? 
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: simonmx23 on February 16, 2014, 07:55:29 AM
So am I right in saying that If I wanted to duplicate the B button I would take it to the small round black pin, remove the  carbon to brass and then solder to that point. For the ground point will I take it to tp22 like   rafaliyo86 has done. Or will i scrap some of the carbon of the actual button and solder to both point like on the you tube video Xbox One Scuf Controler DIY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BdVnKaWihM#) . I hope some one can help
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on February 16, 2014, 09:02:35 AM
@ simonmx23 - It's solder mask to copper, not carbon to brass.

I don't know how you will do it, but either way you're going to get the same result.



@ GrammatonKlerik - I sent you a PM awhile back with a test to try on the Hall sensors to see if you're results there were the same/different and never heard back.

To recap, I've removed one, powered it from a 3.3v source (not pulsed like it is in the controller) and driven the output of that thing to ground thru a 100ohm (just the RC filter) and at most it draws 2mA on the output, which is also what it draws with your 330ohm on there after the RC filter. I left it with the 100ohm all night and it still works. So 330ohm, 10ohm or straight to ground, there's really no difference and I do not see my method causing the issue that so many have supposedly had with it. Pull one off the board and test it to confirm/modify/deny the test results there.

It's a wireless controller, I don't really see the point in disabling it's wireless capability, but I'll have a look at it when I get a chance.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: BattleBeaverCustoms on March 02, 2014, 06:28:57 AM
@simon I have duplicated buttons by scraping the pads, and it works perfectly if done right. But since we have RDC's scans as a resource I say use them. I wound up just using the points right at the connectors. If a customer of mine doesn't want an LED swapped, I can leave the front board screwed into the controller thus saving time. Heres a couple examples of my early ones, now i can do most all buttons on just the longer rear board. Hope it helps.


Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: chevy2nova68 on August 04, 2014, 01:15:47 PM
@RDC So in my first attempt to mod and Xbox One controller, I think that i may have made a mistake while de-soldering my power LED. I either messed up the solder point or??? I have no idea. Is there a way to fix the solder point, or solder a small wire to another point for power? Everything functions on the controller EXCEPT for the power LED. It's not a big deal to me just a small annoyance that i would like to fix if it is possible. If needed I can include some pictures of the board if needed.

Thanks for the help!
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on August 04, 2014, 01:59:30 PM
A picture of the damage is the only way I'll be able to see what was done.

The Vias to the left and right of the pads for the LED are the first place you can use. After that it's onto the bottom side of the board.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: chevy2nova68 on August 07, 2014, 09:42:25 PM

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs15.postimg.org%2Fl378b3up3%2FWP_20140807_004.jpg&hash=246c743d9d7b5271f903b3c79292b009669ae008) (http://postimg.org/image/l378b3up3/)

So here it is.... hopefully I didn't goof it up too much...
Hopefully others will learn from my mistakes.

Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on August 07, 2014, 10:16:06 PM
It looks like the pad on the left is still there, just prep the Via on the right of the LED and solder a small wire from it to the LED.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: Methsman on November 03, 2014, 01:11:09 PM
Hello Sir.

Thank you very much for this PCB Scans.
I used this to made a LED Controller Mod.

I have just one question. I wanted to use TP9 point for 3.3V and TP24 for Ground. The problem is, that the Pad on TP9 falled of by mistake, so i cant use this anymore. Instead of this, i used TP25, but at the end i saw that the LEDs shines, just when i put in the Batteries. I dont want to use that method...I want them to light up when i press the Guide Button and turn the Controller on, just like the Guide Button Led (also this pads are off) :/+)+&&8

So my question is, is there any other Pad i could solder a LED to?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on November 03, 2014, 02:29:05 PM
Welcome.

TP25 is not a power source. There is 3.3v on it, but it's not for sourcing anything.

Use TP7, it's a switched 3.5v power source.

Use less heat and/or time to solder your joints. You shouldn't be removing those pads that easily. If you've torn them off, then after soldering them up put a bit of hot glue on the wire, not on top of the solder joint, but back form it a little bit to hold the wire in place.


Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: Methsman on November 03, 2014, 03:53:45 PM
thank you for the fast response :-)

So TP7 will work like it should, right? Perfect, im gonna try it later. Can you suggest some SMD Leds, which would fit perfectly for this? Im going to put 3 of them in the mittlepiece (got a transparent one) of the controller. I used some of my broken LED Stripes, and i find the are too big for things lile that.

Thanks in advance :-)

greetz
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on November 03, 2014, 04:06:33 PM
TP7 will work fine, as long as you don't nuke it as well. ;)

I have no idea what level of soldering experience you have, aside from lifting some TP spot, so the smaller LEDs you might not get along with too well without some practice on them. The smaller SMT components get the more difficult they are to solder, so get you about 10 spares to practice on, and some masking tape, as you'll not find a better third hand for holding that tiny stuff in place while you solder on it with an iron.

Any 0603 or the bit larger 0805 will work and be more than bright enough for what you're wanting to do. You'll see more wire than LED, so use some 30awg Kynar wire if you can. If those are too small, then the 3mm thru hole type LEDs might be what you're needing as they can be made to fit in most places as well.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: Modded Matt on November 04, 2014, 05:00:20 AM
Well said RDC.

Thanks,
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: chiel1987 on November 24, 2014, 02:53:09 PM
hey hello guys,

How many 0603 smd leds can i use on ( TP7 ) and i use (TP21 as Ground).

I hope someone can help me.

Thanks.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on November 24, 2014, 03:59:16 PM
Depends on the LEDs you plan to use, in what wiring configuration and what current they need to work. I personally wouldn't pull more than 100mA or so from the spot. That's 10 LEDs at 10mA each in parallel. If you need more light than that there's a switch over on the wall you should use, or you need to change the LEDs you're wanting to use or be powering them with something other than a game controller.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: xboxonehelp on December 02, 2014, 03:16:38 PM
So I completely messed up and ripped up a button trace by D14, and wanted to know where the best place to connect the trace to, in order to fix it without soldering directly to the access port. Here's my mess up.

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FvggT6DQ.jpg&hash=866b9935d8cbd74914c7e9b130cef9c3dd6745c7)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on December 02, 2014, 05:30:25 PM
No idea what an access port is.

If you're referring to the actual B button pad, then it looks like it was already scrapped on, and you should have just went with that and been done. If you mean the Via, then you're out of luck, as that's exactly where it will have to go unless you want to solder to the MCU lead.

You'll have to cut off what's left of that dangling trace and either prep it to solder a wire onto the bit of it that's still on the board, then jumper down the the Via where it originally went, or from the left of the B button pad to the Via. That trace and Via (red) can be seen in the PCB scans in the first post.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: xboxonehelp on December 02, 2014, 06:09:35 PM
Which MCU leads are you talking about specifically? At this point I'd seem most confident in my ability to just solder from the button pad onto another spot directly onto another already soldered down point if at all possible. I'm sorry I'm seeming like such a noob, but I may have gotten a little over my head with this mistake.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on December 02, 2014, 06:33:39 PM
There is only 1 MCU lead that is the B button, and it's marked with red as well in the pic.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: xboxonehelp on December 02, 2014, 06:42:07 PM
There is only 1 MCU lead that is the B button, and it's marked with red as well in the pic.
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FcpDNAQI.png&hash=4f53f9dfecf1e101c412c1e331333d534e18fa8c)Is this the one you're talking about?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on December 03, 2014, 04:57:19 AM
That is a connector, not an MCU, and that is the D-pad Down trace, it's red with a black dot. The MCU is on the bottom of the main board.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: xboxonehelp on December 03, 2014, 07:47:55 AM
Yeah shortly after posting that I realized how dumb that was and got it figured out. Now I just need to find a way to hide all the wires and still be able to close the controller and use the headset lol.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: tawy on December 18, 2014, 02:22:15 AM
Hello, i'm hacking a xone pad to put it on an arcade stick. is it possible to make it flat without using the top board ? PCB can be powered via the J5 connector and each button too on J5 and J6.
i tried to connect J5 D+ D- (with 33ohm resistor) 5V and ground unsuccessfully to a usb port. does another pin needs to be connected ? maybe DETECT USB on J6 pin 7 ? if yes, it has to be grounded or powered ? i already read the whole thread on srk, nobody wants to hackpad it like this... using the top board is sure easier, but i want it clean.
thank you.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on December 18, 2014, 12:03:08 PM
Can it be done? Yes. Should it be done? Not really, as it's just more of a pain than using the board that already has everything you need right there. It's an arcade stick, you have plenty of room to work with.


If you're wanting to go that route though, give this a try and see what happens...


J5 connections

1 - 3.5v (only needed if Rumble will be used)
2 - DR
3 - DU
4 - DD
5 - DL
6 - SY
7 - IR LEDs (use a NPN Transistors, do not drive LED directly from this pin)
8 - USB 5v
9 - LB
10 - USB D+ (33ohm)
11 - Not needed
12 - USB D- (33ohm)
13 - Ground
14 - USB Ground


J6 connections

1 - 3v  (yes it's needed, the controller doesn't run on USB 5v alone, that top board has all of that crap on there for a reason)
2 - LED (use an NPN Transistor, do not drive LED directly from this pin)
3 - Ground
4 - 3.3v (yes it's also needed)
5 - RB (may need a 1N4148 across RB connections, Anode to Ground, Cathode to RB)
6 - GU
7 - Not needed
8 - A
9 - X
10 - Y
11 - MN
12 - VW
13 - PNC Detection (connect to Ground thru 25k or so)
14 - Ground

Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: tawy on December 18, 2014, 02:30:33 PM
thank you for the answer.

the reason is not only because i want it flat and clean, also because i've bought a damaged xone pad with this problem :
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi75.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi296%2Ftawyyy%2Fth_5D3991C6-1715-4C46-94A2-4D5D4212210F_zpsun7v9du9.jpg&hash=965f0376f8c4ab21e6a92239faaae4c5d3908e1d) (http://s75.photobucket.com/user/tawyyy/media/5D3991C6-1715-4C46-94A2-4D5D4212210F_zpsun7v9du9.jpg.html)

so i remove all the pot, make it flat like that (i just dont understand why everybody use 5k resistor when it's already available)
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi75.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi296%2Ftawyyy%2Fth_F202180D-D791-442B-B72E-5A28BE28C90C_zpsp8n7qlee.jpg&hash=46f792a013b41e3d6782a7ffe5b08a65b049ff1e) (http://s75.photobucket.com/user/tawyyy/media/F202180D-D791-442B-B72E-5A28BE28C90C_zpsp8n7qlee.jpg.html) (https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi75.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi296%2Ftawyyy%2Fth_9AA2DFAC-3859-497F-9BF0-65E254927EC7_zpsb3pjvihw.jpg&hash=b70e80fc4014f35e49866d8279c3f9ee743e36b3) (http://s75.photobucket.com/user/tawyyy/media/9AA2DFAC-3859-497F-9BF0-65E254927EC7_zpsb3pjvihw.jpg.html)

and i dont want to find all the trace to repair the top pcb. it will certainly work, but i want to try to do something like a "light crossbone pcb"
i will try to make it on oshpark with all your recommandation and validate it by you if you agree.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on December 18, 2014, 05:23:33 PM
Some people use Resistors, some don't, the ones that do use them versus leaving the POTs attached is it's cleaner looking, ironic huh? In the case of the XB1 controller though, I'd use the POTs since that thing is calibrated after it's built to those values, and you'll be able to adjust it out with the POTs on there before securing them versus using Resistors.

Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: tawy on December 19, 2014, 01:12:49 AM
the only real pin needed to have the controller recognized by my xone/pc is to power the bottom PCB with 5V USB, 3V and 3.3V (with a ams1117 3.3 like), connect the ground and D+ D- on 33ohm ?
If i want to make it work only on USB powered, i have to cut this wifi trace (http://i58.tinypic.com/307oxnp.jpg (http://i58.tinypic.com/307oxnp.jpg)).
can i ignore every IR and LED stuff ?

what is the PNC detection ?

3V (J6.1) is the 2xAA battery ? the controller can work without it... dont know if this pin powered if the battery is removed. i'll try on a test breadboard...
and i dont have plenty of room on my arcade stick (vshg)...
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on December 19, 2014, 04:41:43 AM
I didn't say anything about cutting any traces. No battery and plugged up with the USB cable makes it wired.

The LED is just feedback to let you know it's on.

The IR LEDs are so the controller can be tracked by the Kinect and I'd imagine might be required for some games, though I've no idea which ones are using it currently.

PNC detection is what it sounds like, so it knows if you have the PNC cable plugged in or not.

J6.1 is not battery power, it comes from one of the 3 power circuits on the top board. That thing is doing a lot more than just sitting up there with buttons on it.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: tawy on December 19, 2014, 05:08:27 AM
cutting this trace is to avoid to turn on the xone on pushing the home button when connected to another system (or my computer) or if i want to dual mod it.
i just googled about pnc... it's play and charge. sorry ;-) i didnt know.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: Methsman on January 13, 2015, 06:53:51 AM
Hello again mates.

This Thread helped me alot the last months, so i want to thank you all for the effort you put in here.

Thanks!

I just have a "small" problem with my controller. While i played the Halo 5 Beta, i noticed that my left analoge stick has some drifting to the right side. I tried it in the Internet Explorer, and saw that the cursor didnt move correctly to the left. I remove the faceplate of the controller, and saw that it just recognite the full movement when i press the stick fully to the left. When i hardly tilt it, it doesnt recognize it like when i do it with the right direction. I tried to plug it to the computer and calibrate it with some tools that i found on reddit. But its the same. So i think thats an Harware problem maybe.

Anyways, i decided to exchange the whole left stick with its module. ( i've done this once before with a broken one)

But yeah, its some difficult progress, because you have to suck the solder iron from the contacts of the stick, so you can pull it strongly out then.

But my problem is that some of the contact pads teared off, and i dont know excactly where to connect it properly to.

I have made a photo of it. On the left one, i found the joint next to it. So i'll connect it together.

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fabload.de%2Fthumb%2Fasjx2.jpg&hash=41730acffe1ffa5e54f15407fddafb8f8c269a03) (http://abload.de/image.php?img=asjx2.jpg)

my question is, does anyone have a plan how to sort this things out? I would.really appreciate it!

I ordered the sticks, so i think it will took about 2 Weeks till they arrive.

Thanks Guys!!


ps: Sorry for my bad english grammar :/
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: rafaliyo86 on January 13, 2015, 07:19:11 AM
I am not compeltely sure but maybe this help you. RDC is the the person who could help you better (wait for his answer)


(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffotos.subefotos.com%2Fe55cf5e3609a3af601d5f946c13701a2o.png&hash=b1509612c6bb0ee52152a50e9ae947017df95e3b)

You just have to scrap off the circled points
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: Modded Matt on January 13, 2015, 10:09:54 AM
in the pic above, #1 is just a mounting post. it is tied to ground, but does not need to be. it just holds the stick onto the board. #2 and #3 are correct.

But....

The xbox one controller sticks are cheap and have a bad offset that is calibrated and saved upon initial start-up.  swapping the sticks has about a 99% fail rate due to this offset. RDC has made a chip to fix this offset, but I am not sure if he has went into full production. his fix requires cutting traces and soldering to small vias and traces. (not for the faint of heart)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: Methsman on January 14, 2015, 05:22:45 AM
Thank you both for your fast answers! I'll try them as soon as i get my Analog Sensors.

@moddedmatt

Thanks for your comment. I have exchanged one stick on another controller because the plastik was broken. and i didnt notice any problems with it. But i didnt test it properly, because i sold it on the other day.


I will give you a shout, if it worked or not! Thanks mates!

Peace
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: LiquidKustoms on January 30, 2015, 01:55:32 PM
@RDC great job with the PCB scans! I worked with a really good friend of mine which is a PHD in electronic's & did all the traces 1 month after the release of xb1. Everything you have pointed out works great & I have been doing the trigger bypass @ the filters as you described for over a year now with no problems to date. Just wanted to let you know that all your work is awesome & everyone should really pay attention to the details that you point out!  :clap:
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on January 30, 2015, 03:17:52 PM
Thanks and welcome. Did all the traces of what? I have no PhD friend here, nor one myself, and it took less than a week to schematic the entire controller once it was released, minus the RF board on it as I've no interest in that module for the time being.

(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1537LoRes.jpg)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: Psychnah on February 01, 2015, 09:58:38 PM
Really hoping someone can help me.
My problem is that my B button is no longer working after remapping it, I also remapped A and it works great but B doesn't work on the controller pr the tact switch. I think my first mistake was soldering my contact from the tact to both connections at d14, and then I went to desolder them and lifted the pad on the top pin of d14, I haven't really attempted to repair it because I don't wanna screw it up anymore, but I may have because I scraped the carbon off the left side of the B contact pad and soldered my contact here to the tact still not working on the controller or the tact I can provide pictures if that helps. Thanks in advance!
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on February 01, 2015, 11:07:09 PM
Soldering to both spots at D14 would cause the B button to be pressed all of the time.

Ripping up the top pad of D14 is the problem now, as that has opened the B button trace, so soldering the new Tact to the B button contact would do nothing.

You need to solder a jumper wire form the left side of the B button contact, provided that it's not already ruined, to the first B button via now. If you ruin the Via on the top then you have 2 more on the top to attempt to get that right, if you ruin all of those then you'll have to connect it to the one on the bottom, if you ruin that you'll have to connect it to the lead on the MCU, if you ruin that then you're done. The entire B button line is traced out in the pics on the first page.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: Methsman on February 02, 2015, 02:21:32 AM
But....

The xbox one controller sticks are cheap and have a bad offset that is calibrated and saved upon initial start-up.  swapping the sticks has about a 99% fail rate due to this offset. RDC has made a chip to fix this offset, but I am not sure if he has went into full production. his fix requires cutting traces and soldering to small vias and traces. (not for the faint of heart)

Okay! You are right!

I have exchanged the Analog Sensor, and its the same! So i think there is no software solution for this.

It would be very cool, if we can do this on pc or so, but thats just wishes.

So i think i have to wait for some Tools to calibrate it.
Very sad, that they just put so less effort in this sticks. Because what i have read, there are many people with this problem though.

peace Meths!
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: Psychnah on February 02, 2015, 07:34:38 AM
Soldering to both spots at D14 would cause the B button to be pressed all of the time.

Ripping up the top pad of D14 is the problem now, as that has opened the B button trace, so soldering the new Tact to the B button contact would do nothing.

You need to solder a jumper wire form the left side of the B button contact, provided that it's not already ruined, to the first B button via now. If you ruin the Via on the top then you have 2 more on the top to attempt to get that right, if you ruin all of those then you'll have to connect it to the one on the bottom, if you ruin that you'll have to connect it to the lead on the MCU, if you ruin that then you're done. The entire B button line is traced out in the pics on the first page.
Okay so the via next to the top of d14?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on February 02, 2015, 07:44:59 AM
Top/right, but yes, closest one above it.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: Psychnah on February 02, 2015, 08:51:14 AM
Okay thank you!! Will try it later on today and report back !
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: Psychnah on February 02, 2015, 02:50:52 PM
My B button is back to being always pressed. Including pictures
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: WHITE 4ND N3RDY on February 02, 2015, 03:16:53 PM
Invest in flux! Use rubbing alcohol and clean your area u want to solder to, make sure that u scrapped the via where u can see the copper then apply a little flux to the via. If u Dont have flux a little spit does the trick lol.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on February 02, 2015, 03:42:45 PM
I can't see it. You either haven't scrapped enough masking off, or have scrapped too much and ruined it.

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?/topic/512248-broken-trace/#entry3406983 (http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?/topic/512248-broken-trace/#entry3406983)


Spit is a good way to catch some solder splash in your eye when that heats up and the expanding gas has nowhere to go because the solder is covering it up, aka a solder balloon that can pop, so do yourself a favor and stop doing that. Regardless of how 'well' it's been working for you, it only takes 1 fail there and you can kiss depth perception goodbye. Good solder already has a rosin core, that is the flux is inside it, and it's not always necessary to go adding more.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: Psychnah on February 02, 2015, 03:52:46 PM
Thanks for all the help guys, but at this point I think my controller is done for lol. The left hand side pad on the B button has lifted up, and I'm not sure if that's repairible but if it is let me know.

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs18.postimg.org%2F76honbvph%2F14229213849001360123385.jpg&hash=1fa6ec075ba69fd18d260449c0d067adf4a4fd27) (http://postimg.org/image/76honbvph/)

[mod]Just use the modify tab to add to your post. This way u Dont double post. No biggy just a future F.Y.I thanks. [/mod]
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on February 02, 2015, 04:30:53 PM
Back up 1/4" and take the pic again, the part that really needs to be seen is blurry, either way it's not ruined, I could fix it.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: Psychnah on February 02, 2015, 05:04:09 PM

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs11.postimg.org%2Fqc41wxiov%2F20150202_200153.jpg&hash=94d74fe53fd878b8d712e5211e0b632ea323cf01) (http://postimg.org/image/qc41wxiov/)

Is this one better?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on February 02, 2015, 05:53:45 PM
A bit. You've pulled the trace at SW3 for sure, and it looks like the Via wasn't scrapped enough in that pic. Get someone else to take a crack at it for you, or get yourself another controller and keep that one and practice, practice, practice on it before laying the iron on your new one.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: Psychnah on February 02, 2015, 06:12:25 PM
Would there be a way for me to fix SW3? If I scrape down where the trace was and retry? I appreciate all your help so far you really know what you are talking about and are very encouraging! :tup:
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on February 02, 2015, 07:39:32 PM
From what I've seen so far, and no offense intended, you're probably just going to dig yourself in deeper until someone like me can't really repair it. Either write it off and get a new one, then use that one for practice and try things out, or if you're wanting to salvage it, then let someone that works on that kind of thing look at it.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: Psychnah on February 02, 2015, 07:44:59 PM
Haha no offence taken, I private messaged you.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: fevera1985 on April 22, 2015, 08:15:19 PM
Anyone here is familiar with electronic sketching ? Im wanting to get a small project done and upload to a printing site to get the small boards, i had a few convos with someone here last year but never wrote me.back, i will pay for the work, thanks.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on April 22, 2015, 10:37:21 PM
Electronic 'sketching' is far from PCB designing, that's just drawing wires on paper. PM me if you're after needing an actual PCB designed, but if you're wanting some conductive pen on paper stuff done, then please start another thread as that's even farther from what this topic is about than what the PCB designing is. ;)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: CPSM95 on June 03, 2015, 08:06:32 AM
So I ran into a similar problem as a previous person. I was attempting to replace the guide button LED and I accidentally ripped off the contact pad on the left side (positive side). I want to know how to fix it or the best place to hard wire that side of the LED to and what wire I should use for something that small.

Thank you
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on June 03, 2015, 09:13:00 AM
The first place to solder to is the Via that's right there at the pad. After that on the bottom of the board, the top of R5 is the next spot you can attach a wire to and run it to the LED. If you ruin both of those spots then you'll also be needing to install a Resistor in the repair at other locations to get everything going again properly.

I'd use 30awg wire or smaller.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: CPSM95 on June 03, 2015, 12:43:49 PM
Last night I tried scraping of the coating of the track line going to R5 and attaching it right to the copper track but that didn't work because the solder would not sick to the PCB at all. I also don't think I was using the right wire either, it was stranded copper. I didn't even think of  connecting it straight to R5. Then today I went out and bought some 24 AWG solid wire (they didn't have 30) and a new soldering iron because the one I was using was like 100 years old and the solder wasn't even sticking to the iron. I then attached an LED I took off an old xbox 360 that got the red rings to one end of the wire and the other end I attached right to R5 and it's working....finally!

Thank you!

Also the light is red not green. I'm okay with it being red...I'm just curious why it wouldn't be green unless that has something to do with the way I soldered it on there or the fact that the xbox I took it of off had gotten the red rings before.

Update:

Okay so it was working and then it stopped to i opened my controller back up to try to secure the connections and I made it worse. Can you look at these pictures and tell me what I should do to get an LED to work.
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs28.postimg.org%2F6gf8n58kp%2FIMG_6178.jpg&hash=b818ef0b68c6c96d0dbb0001df03046762101b60) (http://postimg.org/image/6gf8n58kp/)

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs28.postimg.org%2Fp7h5xb355%2FIMG_6179.jpg&hash=a51760d8d89d9098f4a2c11c2222ba633c5e0756) (http://postimg.org/image/p7h5xb355/)


[mod]dont double post, please use the edit tab [/mod]
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on June 03, 2015, 05:49:54 PM
The LEDs in the 360 RoL are Bi-Color, all you've done there is connect up the Red instead of Green.

To be honest, I think the best thing you can do is let someone else work on that PCB before it's completely ruined and chalk that one up as a learning experience and practice on other things with much larger Thru Hole components before going to the Surface Mount rework. Both LED pads are gone now and the PCB is starting to get burned. You're using far, far too much heat and scraping on the PCB way too much in some places and not enough in others.

Take a Q-tip and some rubbing alcohol to it for now and clean that all up so you can see what is still what under all of that nuked flux. Also, make sure you're not using any kind of acid core or really old solder that you have no idea what it is. You need to be using Rosin core 60/40 or similar (63/37, etc) for doing that type of thing.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: CPSM95 on June 04, 2015, 08:13:19 PM
Is there anywhere else on the controller where I can attach an LED to through a wire and still have it shine through the guide button such as one of those locations on the side of the PCB? I was thinking I would just glue the LED under the guide button and then run wires to where ever would make it light up. I successfully swapped LEDs on two other controllers and the console itself. I really want this other controller to light up though.

Thank you
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on June 04, 2015, 10:27:46 PM
Any other spot you're going to need to install a Resistor as well to keep the LED from being damaged.

TP9 is 3.3v and then use any ground. It will not work like it is supposed to then, and it will only be on when the controller is on, and off when it's off.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: Immortal on June 15, 2015, 05:50:22 AM
I've managed to melt off the contacts where you bridge the 2 for the triggers, if I hold the wire in a via or the mfu the trigger acts as if the button is held down is that normal? E.g if I hold the button down and out the wire in the via its fine, however soon as I let up the button it's "pressed" on the PCb?

I posted a thread with other pics but could use some help
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: RDC on June 15, 2015, 07:43:10 AM
I've replied in your thread, as the info you've given here is not on topic and lacking to proceed any further with.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: jortizval on July 28, 2015, 08:12:07 AM
I need some help here. Im pad hacking a xb1 controller i got from ebay, i dismantled the controller and wired all the points needed to put it on a fightstick. I ripped off the point on B so i solder the wire to d14 (its that ok?) Now my problem is when i plug in the usb cable from the controller to the xbox the controller dont turn on. Also i had to "fix" the headset usb connector because it came loose and broke the pins that connect to the pcb. I only wire all bottons (xyab,dd,dr,du,dd,dl,lb,rb,rt and lt with a 100ohm resistor each, guide, start and option buttons) and wired one of the ground points for all ground. What ive done wrong so my controller dont turn on? Do i need to wire anything else to get power on the controller? And where should be?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on July 28, 2015, 09:42:08 AM
Only the top point of D14 can be used for B.

If you didn't test the controller before hand then it may never have worked, and if it did, then something you have done to it is what killed it. I can't see, and no idea what kind of soldering job you did on it.

There is no headset USB connector, those are 2 completely different connectors, but that's where I'd start on it as you both broke and 'fixed' it.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: jortizval on July 28, 2015, 04:04:13 PM
Ok i will post pics of soldering job ive done, also will need some advice if hot glue was well applied. Ive used the top point of B on d14
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: jortizval on July 28, 2015, 04:49:14 PM
Ok here are the pics of the soldering job. I dont know if you can appreciate the soldering because of the glue. Let me know what to do so i can get some help from you. Also, yes i didnt test the controller bafore hand i forgot so idk if it was working before dismantled. My bad there.

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs3.postimg.org%2Falej0a9wv%2F20150728_193746.jpg&hash=5eca49bb2b81967f0bc3e31b1c2f9eb603699f45) (http://postimg.org/image/alej0a9wv/)

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs21.postimg.org%2Fqreet9t6r%2F20150728_193007.jpg&hash=f27ecbcaad37576d995afca356e429e2ff61795c) (http://postimg.org/image/qreet9t6r/)

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs24.postimg.org%2Fz3w47gxqp%2F20150728_192920.jpg&hash=860b69af0aa9098be3ec84adf5e4ae1797c117d0) (http://postimg.org/image/z3w47gxqp/)

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs7.postimg.org%2F41nqzaeg7%2F20150728_192830.jpg&hash=49a6fac0c6dbbc51366bbaa224a7bf5bad5ca789) (http://postimg.org/image/41nqzaeg7/)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on July 28, 2015, 05:15:47 PM
You never want to put hot glue on top of the solder joints. If you need to get back to the joints, that can cause damage to the pads/traces when removing the glue and makes it more difficult to test things.

I can't see the 12 SMT solder joints of the Headset connector J8, but if that thing was pulled even half off the board then there is damage there for sure and I doubt that it will work.

Can't tell if that's a solder flake or damage at C9 also, main board top side.

You have the RT spot wired to pin 1 instead of pin 2 where it should be.

Now for the biggie, you've ripped L2 almost completely off the board, power board bottom side, which has killed the step down voltage from the USB 5v, so the controller is getting no power at all when using the USB cable. That can not be repaired as it's damaged too much, and it needs to be replaced with the correct value component for it to work properly.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: jortizval on July 28, 2015, 08:41:50 PM
Ok so RT and LT need to be solder to R39/C36, R42/C38 respectively instead of ut10, ut11 as i solder them?. Also i solder an 100ohm resistor to each wire of this triggers is that ok? And since my usb source is killed because of that ripped L2 can i power the board with jump wiring the batteries to their respective voltage connectors and make the connection wireless? And for the headset connector it wasnt pulled off the board the 4 pins that connect to the board from the connector broke from the main base headset connector and where still soldered on the board, didnt see any damage i just desoldered the remaining pins left in the board and soldered 4 tiny wires in their respectively spot to make the connection but as the board dont have power i dont know if that really work, but its ok this way? Its kinda jump wiring headset connector itself to connect to the board but idk if that work this way since i tried to find that headset connector on ebay with no luck. It would be easier than what i did, just clean board solder and replace with new connector. Please let me know if all this is correct.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on July 29, 2015, 12:22:50 AM
Just move the RT wire over to pin 2.

It should still work powered from a battery pack, provided that it worked to start with and nothing else is damaged, but I've never broken one that way on purpose and tried.

The 4 tabs of the Headset connector are just for mechanical stress, keeping it off the 12 SMT solder joints of it that are the necessary ones. If the 4 tabs for the Headset connector were broken, then the 12 SMT solder joints and/or pads/traces of it have been stressed or damaged.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: kriscash2007 on July 29, 2015, 12:00:57 PM
I've put my controller back together and thought the the d-d - pad would work with a new piece. Come to find out it does the same thing as it did before I started.  It requires a very push for it to respond. Is there anything I can do about that. Everything else works just fine. I think I messed it up when I raged one time.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on July 29, 2015, 04:03:04 PM
You've taken the D-pad apart, peeling the top off and soldered on the PCB, so I wouldn't expect it to work correctly being put back together as it's nowhere near as flat, clean or conductive as it was before all of that. You also said the controller wasn't tested before, now you are, so I couldn't tell you what the problem was before hand. If it's not clicking like the other 3, then it's the domed piece of metal in the plastic that's worn out or not centered properly.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: jortizval on July 29, 2015, 07:18:37 PM
Ok can you show me where is pin 2 with pics? I dont want to make mistakes

Edit: i think is the one below it, am I right?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on July 29, 2015, 09:10:47 PM
Pin 2 of what?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: jortizval on July 29, 2015, 11:20:28 PM
Nvm ty for  your help if i got any other issues ill come to ask you. You know your business :)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: jortizval on August 01, 2015, 08:06:54 PM
Ok how do i fix Y button not responding on another pcb, i switched working top board between 2 of them but Y button not working on both top board connecting to same bottom board. How do i fix it?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on August 02, 2015, 03:57:46 AM
The Y button, along with every other button, is traced out in the pics of the very first post of this thread. Get out the DMM and start checking the continuity of the Y trace on the bottom board until you find the break in the trace, or a bad solder joint on the connector or the MCU. If all of that is good, then the MCU is the problem and you're not going to fix it.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: jortizval on August 06, 2015, 03:20:25 PM
Ok if there is no continuity on the long B trace bottom board, B button still work? Also there have to be continuity on Y trace from the left side to the right side between both connectors or just left connector and left side Y trace are connected and right side Y trace with right side connector are connected? I mean left conector and right connector Y pins dont have continuity between them? They are independant? Just left side Y trace need to have continuity with left side connector and right side Y trace need to have continuity with right side connector?

Sorry if you dont understand my question, let me know please
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on August 07, 2015, 05:03:17 AM
You're not using the meter correctly or checking the correct spots if you have no continuity on the B trace and B still works. There is only 1 Y trace on the bottom board, it goes from pin 10 of J6 to pin 58 of the MCU and thru 5 Vias. It's the Yellow trace, the Yellow with Black dot trace is for D-pad Up.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: jortizval on August 07, 2015, 08:07:21 PM
Ok thank you for the head up about yellow with black dot and plain yellow. I found out that in one of the tiny holes/black dots in Y trace  i cant pass a tiny wire through to get continuity and i think thats the problem where Y trace dont have continuity. All Y trace looks good and j6 is ok too but the black dot where i cant pass a tiny wire there is where the trace stop having continuity. Is there anyway i can "clean" or or make something to be able to pass a tiny wire through that black dot so i can get continuity in that point or im screwed?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on August 08, 2015, 08:03:37 AM
If the Via is bad you can prep both sides, drill it out with a very tiny drill bit and run a small enough wire thru it and solder on both sides to restore it, but it's rare for them to go bad in the first place, so make 100% sure that you are checking the correct Via on the other side of the board. You can also just jumper wire the trace from the Via on top to the bottom instead, it's not as pretty since it's a longer wire, but it works just the same.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: jortizval on August 09, 2015, 02:05:07 AM
Ok tyvm, i didnt have a tiny drill bit on hand so i used another tiny wire with sharp end to "drill" the hole and managed to pass its edge through the other side of the mcu board, apparently there was an obstruction, now i can pass a tiny wire through the hole and when checked continuity i need to do what you said about solder a tiny wire on both sides since when checked there is continuity from the top side to the bottom side on that specific point so the tiny wire would work as a jumper within the board and as you said too it will look better/pretty than a jumper wire from top to bottom. So apparently this is one of those rare cases where it go bad  :confused: but ty for your help/knowledge if i get any other issues ill let you know. Youre the best RDC
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: XboxAddicted on August 25, 2015, 04:18:29 PM
HI RDC I just scanned all the thread and I didn't find what I'm looking for.

I'm lefties and I need a way to swap the left stick with the right stick.

My initial thought is to cut the white pads from the rest of the copper line  (the ones with the red and blue X and Y marks) and solder the left stick X pad to the right stick copper line and viceversa. The same for the Y pad.

1) Do you think it can be works?
2) Do you suggest a better approach?

Thanks for any help you may give

Vincenzo
Milan Italy
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on August 25, 2015, 05:08:43 PM
Hey Vincenzo,

That's pretty much exactly what you have to do, and if you have the 1697 board with the 3.5mm Headset jack, then it's even harder to do as the traces are not easy to get at.

But, here is the problem with doing that. These controllers are very, very picky about having the Analog lines swapped around like that as they seem to be calibrated after they are made, and none of those 4 lines are exactly the same. Occasionally you get a controller where they are close enough and swapping the lines around doesn't do anything that you will notice, but most of them are not like that. So you will most likely end up with one or more Stick directions drifting (moving very slow on it's own) or not having the full range that it originally did.

You can do the 4 trace cuts and then it's a 4 wire deal to swap the lines so it's a SouthPaw controller, or 6 cuts and 6 wires if you need LSC/RSC also swapped, but then be prepared to fiddle with it a bit to get it working 100% in every game. By fiddle I mean you may need to desolder the 3 leads of the POT, remove it, cut the posts from it (not the clips that hold it in place) so that you can then rotate it a very slight amount to get it in that perfect spot where the controller 'thinks' that nothing has changed.

I had a project in the works to deal with the offset issue that happens, and to also just be a full Stick swapper so the controller had all 4 layouts available, but I've put it on the back burner for awhile now and am not sure if I'll finish it up. It's a small PCB that gets wired up between the Sticks and board.


M$ needs to address this with a recalibration routine, Nintendo did decades ago, as even swapping the Sticks out in these controllers for new ones after the old ones break or have worn out can give you the exact same headache.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: XboxAddicted on August 26, 2015, 02:47:21 AM
Thanks for the quick reply!

And what about to put in the 4 analog lines a 10 Ohm micro trimmer to adjust the resistance value of the stick potentiometers?


was also thinking to use un analog switch IC like the ADG1634 with a small push button able to switch configuration.[mod]please do not double post. Use the modify tab, thanks.[/mod]
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on August 26, 2015, 09:29:55 AM
You could use something like the ADG for that, but, all you'll do there is switch between one layout that works good, and one layout that might be offset and not work that great.

The only way installing trimmers will do anything is if you get it on one side or the other of the existing POT, and it has to be on the side that needs the trimming, unless you plan to put one on each side for a total of 8 trimmers, there's no way I'd go thru all of that. Putting the trimmer in the middle on the Wiper line will do noting at all, and using them with the switch IC means that you will have to adjust them every time that you change Stick layouts.

The board I was working on did all of that automatically and saved the offsets, so no adjusting mess needed to be done when switching around, but it also had a manual mode for adjusting it up if a new Stick were ever installed or it just needed tweaking. I really should dust that project off.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: XboxAddicted on August 26, 2015, 10:31:22 AM
You could use something like the ADG for that, but, all you'll do there is switch between one layout that works good, and one layout that might be offset and not work that great.

The only way installing trimmers will do anything is if you get it on one side or the other of the existing POT, and it has to be on the side that needs the trimming, unless you plan to put one on each side for a total of 8 trimmers, there's no way I'd go thru all of that. Putting the trimmer in the middle on the Wiper line will do noting at all, and using them with the switch IC means that you will have to adjust them every time that you change Stick layouts.

Yes, you are right!

The board I was working on did all of that automatically and saved the offsets, so no adjusting mess needed to be done when switching around, but it also had a manual mode for adjusting it up if a new Stick were ever installed or it just needed tweaking. I really should dust that project off.

You have to !!!
I just bought The Witcher 3 and it does not have any Southpawn layout.



By the way I starting now to open my controller and cut the lines...
Let's see what is going to happen!!!

Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on August 26, 2015, 05:40:11 PM
You may get them all swapped and never notice a thing, some controllers are just more picky from the tolerances of everything in them. Then it may work great in one game, but drift in another, as no two of those are coded the same way either. Be interesting to hear how yours works there on the main game for doing it, then on some other games for comparison.

I've dug the code back out for my stick swapper board project and am starting to go back over all of that as well.

It covers all 4 of the Stick layouts, plus swapping the LSC/RSC buttons, so it has a total of 8 possible layouts.

Default
Default with LSC/RSC swapped
SouthPaw
Southpaw with LSC/RSC swapped
Legacy
Legacy with LSC/RSC swapped
Legacy-SouthPaw
Legacy-SouthPaw with LSC/RSC swapped

Some of those are debatable to leave in, as only 1 person in a million might use it, but I'd rather it cover at least all of those bases. I'd also considered adding in an Inversion per axis option, but then you get into a huge number of layouts and cycling thru them all is just more of a pain and by then it's easier to have some external interface to set everything up, and I'm not about to get into that again for now.

I may just do a stripped down version, where it's only..

Default
SouthPaw
SouthPaw with LSC/RSC swapped

..as then there are only 3 layouts to cycle thru, but it's still in the 'eh' category of my piles of projects and who knows how it might turn out if/when it even does.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: thewarners777 on August 30, 2015, 08:35:12 PM
Can you use c38 and c36 for rapid fire points?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on August 31, 2015, 04:32:09 AM
Yes, those spots can be used for LT/RT, just like it says in the first post. ;)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: thewarners777 on August 31, 2015, 07:10:52 PM
I haven't seen anyone use those points for rapid fire. I have only seen the via or the other points under where the rt and lt hit when pressed. C38 and c36 are easier points to solder too eventhough they are on different MB's. Thanks for your reply
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 01, 2015, 02:05:51 AM
SethMods installation instructions do.

C36 and C38 are on the same PCB.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: thewarners777 on September 01, 2015, 10:02:18 AM
Sorry when I said different pcb's I meant c36 and c38 are not on the the same PCB as a,b,X and y. Most rf chips use a and b and mount the chip on the PCB without c36 and c38.

Either way I appreciate your responses and your amazing scans. It's nice to know there are options for rt and lt
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 01, 2015, 10:24:50 AM
No problem, but every button is on the main board there with LT and RT.  It has the MCU, and everything goes to it. B is the only button that is technically 'on' the PCB as it's contacts are there, but ABXY and everything else are right there at the J5 and J6 connectors.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info
Post by: fevera1985 on September 14, 2015, 05:52:01 PM
Would you happen to know where does the Mic spots are on the controller PCB board ?
for example. the Mic spots and the speaker spots ?


PLAY & CHARGE CABLE

The PnC cable has a Bi-Color (Amber/White) LED in it for showing the charging/charged state of the PnC Pack, along with a few other components and a 4-layer PCB.

Pin 4 of the microUSB connector is used for changing the LED, 0v = Amber, 3.3v = White.

PnC CABLE
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi50.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff320%2FRDCXBG%2FXB1%2FPnCCable1_zpsa0704b17.jpg&hash=88a53b1df1a7adf482b97eea54f9ce994d40c47b) (http://s50.photobucket.com/user/RDCXBG/media/XB1/PnCCable1_zpsa0704b17.jpg.html)

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi50.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff320%2FRDCXBG%2FXB1%2FPnCCable2_zps2a808fe2.jpg&hash=8088a04dd08ebd5fbc89af83b25f40a0fc48d9c5) (http://s50.photobucket.com/user/RDCXBG/media/XB1/PnCCable2_zps2a808fe2.jpg.html)


HEADSET

The Headset connector this go around uses a 12 pin connector, that will more than likely do plenty more before all is said and done as it's overkill. The connector has the Audio Codec chip, a Texas Instruments TLV320AIC3204 and a PICLF26K22 inside it along with other support components for doing signal processing.

HEADSET AUDIO BOARD TOP
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi50.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff320%2FRDCXBG%2FXB1%2F1564Top_zpsc7297649.jpg&hash=a5660fc559d1b8b5f26a97f34d3f8389735026fc) (http://s50.photobucket.com/user/RDCXBG/media/XB1/1564Top_zpsc7297649.jpg.html)

HEADSET AUDIO BOARD BOTTOM
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi50.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff320%2FRDCXBG%2FXB1%2F1564Bottom_zps9d6c241c.jpg&hash=2f11bb2501864a1005f5c482ff35d4bd498c065f) (http://s50.photobucket.com/user/RDCXBG/media/XB1/1564Bottom_zps9d6c241c.jpg.html)

The Microphone and Speaker connections, wire colors, at least for now, are..

GND = Ground, Copper
MIC = Microphone, White
HPR = Headphone Right, Black, Speaker -
HPL = Headphone Left, Blue, Speaker +
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 14, 2015, 06:05:31 PM
There are no Mic/Speaker spots on the main PCB of the 1537 version controller, because that Headset connector is all Digital. The Headset adapter there does the Digital to Analog conversion (for the Mic/Speaker spots) so they don't even exist on the main PCB.

The newer 1697 version controller does have Mic/Speaker locations, as it has the 3.5mm Headset jack on the main board, but the 1537 here does not have them, you have to use the Headset adapter.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: mdmonroe on November 25, 2015, 10:52:10 AM
Hey RDC I just began working on a 1697 model controller and am having trouble finding the GROUND points... I see you listed some TP's with the scans, I'm wondering if you know any that are definitely ground or if I'd have better luck wiring the ground from the front of the J5 or J6 ground points.

Thanks
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on November 25, 2015, 12:17:09 PM
Any of the 8 lugs for the Sticks are all ground and are easy enough to use. I've also updated the 1697 thread with a couple of GND TPs.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: mdmonroe on November 25, 2015, 02:38:37 PM
Are you indicating that TP 21 & TP 111 are ground points using "GND"?

I actually tried TP 21 as a ground and lost function of the button I was attempting to remap until I removed it from the TP 21 point.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on November 25, 2015, 03:02:39 PM
Then you did something wrong, because TP21 on both the 1537 and 1697 versions of the board is GrouND.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: kuhruby on November 30, 2015, 10:22:42 PM
Hey RDC, I bought an xbox 360 controller from you years ago that had a switch to enable Legacy controls on the fly. I want to thank you for your excellent work. You mentioned that it isn't practical to attempt that kind of mod on the xbox one controller, because of the way the stick modules are calibrated from the factory. However, when it comes to just replacing the stick modules outright, because of drift, etc, will the same problems arise? If not, which modules (brand, I guess) do you recommend I use? Thanks again.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on November 30, 2015, 11:27:33 PM
Welcome.

You will more than likely have the same issues when swapping sticks as they will be a shade off from what the originals were. Now you very well could get lucky and the replacements are close enough that there is no drift, but the odds are slim on that unless you go thru a few different ones or take the time to tweak them, as it really doesn't take very much change at all to throw them off.

I keep putting the stick/button swapper project on the back burner, as it's already a witch to install, and for a Default/Legacy only controller that thing would be overkill anyway, but in order to really do that properly you'd need something like it so it could correct that offset difference of a new and/or swapped stick, so it keeps everything working correctly.

You can always cut the traces and do a Legacy layout, and the worst case there is it drifts and then you just rewire it back to stock so it's not a total loss. Best case is it works, which is possible, but it's for sure not guaranteed.

When it comes to installing new sticks, you're either going to have to get a few sets and play the install, test and possibly reinstall game one or several times, or install a new set with the posts cut from the POTs (not the tabs that clip them onto the frame) so you can tweak them (tilt ever so slightly) to get everything lined up like the originals were, which is far less fun than it sounds.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Modded Matt on December 01, 2015, 05:20:04 AM
I had no issues installing the stick swapper and it worked fine with the one mode and offset correction.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on December 01, 2015, 09:05:51 AM
Neither do I, and it wasn't your first rodeo either. ;)

But for anyone that hasn't soldered or hacked up traces it would be a bit of a pain to install.

This is far from what I'd consider a clean install, it's just installed so I could do more testing, but it shows that it's not exactly a couple of wires and you're done kind of thing.

(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/X1-SCproto.jpg)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: kuhruby on December 01, 2015, 04:18:31 PM
Thanks for the responses. I already swapped out the stick modules a couple of weeks ago on my Day One edition controller, because of drifting. I'm surprised it lasted that long. I haven't noticed any drift, but I've only been playing Halo 5, and Fallout 4 (so nauseating to play Fallout 4 with default sticks).

How can I check the center offset on this controller? Do I need to hook it up to a PC and use a certain program? I'm still confused on what exactly needs to be adjusted on the modules if you're trying to correct offset. Would you mind explaining that part with a few more details, please?

Also, I just bought the Lunar White edition controller and would like to ultimately keep it, and the Day One edition for a long time, just replacing the stick modules as they wear. It seems as though the buttons and triggers will last significantly longer. Are you currently selling those "stick swapper" boards? I may consider them, just to correct the new module offset, if/when I install others.

By the way, these (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0144AH4FU) are the modules that I used. Are there better ones out there?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on December 01, 2015, 05:04:13 PM
The game is also as much a part of how picky the drift is also, as some will be fine then others will have it.


The best way to tell what the stick values are is with a Cronus and using the Device Monitor in it.


About the only thing you can do without getting into a PIC and DAC setup like the stick swapper is to mechanically adjust the center position by tilting the POT on the stick frame. Desolder the POT, unclip it from the frame and you'll see it has small posts in 3 of the corners. Use and X-acto knife and cut all of them off. Clip the POT back onto the frame and now it has some play in it where you can tilt (turn) it. Once the stick is reinstalled, you can adjust the POT a little before soldering it in place. How much you tilt/turn it determines where the Wiper sits, and thus the center value. It's tedious and not much fun to go thru all that a few times to get it sorted, but it works.


I'm not currently making any of the stick swapper boards, as I keep putting that on the back burner and with the 1697 out now I'll need to redesign the PCB or make another version for it to make installing a bit easier.


The original sticks are Alps, but as they end up failing at some point as well no one is really any better than the other there.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: guestieboy on January 06, 2016, 02:19:24 AM
Great uploads RDC thanks for this,
Im hoping someone can point me in the right direction to what component I need to check, basically the controller wont turn on and when the usb is connected it gets very hot on the top board near
U1+U3 area.
Any help guys would be much appreciated son's doing my nut in
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on January 06, 2016, 07:51:08 AM
Welcome.

With no history on the controller at all, that's not going to be something anyone can pinpoint, and I haven't had any, or anyone send me bad ones to check out, so I've no idea what might be common issues on these things yet.

U1 knocks the USB 5v down for U2 and U3 to use.
U2 does the 3.5v for the LED, IR LEDs and Motor power.
U3 does the 3.3v for everything on the MCU board.

The first thing you should do, if done that is, is to undo whatever you or anyone else has done in there, as that is where 99% of most controller problems come from.

About the only easy thing you can test there is to remove the battery and use just the USB cable and see what happens, after that you need to get into board swapping and then real troubleshooting to find the culprit.

Another thing you might try is to unplug the Power board from the MCU board and plug up the USB cable to it. It's not a very conclusive test, but if U1, U2 or U3 gets hot then, then you for sure have an issue on the Power board there as with it unplugged from the MCU board none of it should be working except U1, and it would only be lukewarm at best.

If you have another controller, you can swap the Power boards between them and see if the issue is still there or not.

If the problem goes away, the Power board is most likely at fault and needs looked at.

If the problem stays the same, then the problem is most likely on the MCU board and could be a vast number of things, most of which would not be economical at all to repair.

That comes with the risk of possibly tanking the board you are using for the testing, so that method has it's risks.


An alternative to the board swapping is to take the working controller and measure everything you can inside of it, then compare it to the one that is not working. Far more tedious and isn't always the best at narrowing down where the actual fault is. It also requires knowing a bit about what you're testing and how it should be acting.


Either way, once you get it narrowed down to which board is the issue, then you'll be poking around in there with the DMM and using a power supply to inject voltages here and there and check things, all in all not something the typical gamer is setup to be doing.

If you're in the US, and would like to send it to me shoot me a PM, I'd like to take a crack at it. I can't guarantee I can fix it, but I will find out where the issue with it is, and then everyone will know for any future problems.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Umbra on March 02, 2016, 03:16:45 PM
Welcome.

With no history on the controller at all, that's not going to be something anyone can pinpoint, and I haven't had any, or anyone send me bad ones to check out, so I've no idea what might be common issues on these things yet.

U1 knocks the USB 5v down for U2 and U3 to use.
U2 does the 3.5v for the LED, IR LEDs and Motor power.
U3 does the 3.3v for everything on the MCU board.

The first thing you should do, if done that is, is to undo whatever you or anyone else has done in there, as that is where 99% of most controller problems come from.

About the only easy thing you can test there is to remove the battery and use just the USB cable and see what happens, after that you need to get into board swapping and then real troubleshooting to find the culprit.

Another thing you might try is to unplug the Power board from the MCU board and plug up the USB cable to it. It's not a very conclusive test, but if U1, U2 or U3 gets hot then, then you for sure have an issue on the Power board there as with it unplugged from the MCU board none of it should be working except U1, and it would only be lukewarm at best.

If you have another controller, you can swap the Power boards between them and see if the issue is still there or not.

If the problem goes away, the Power board is most likely at fault and needs looked at.

If the problem stays the same, then the problem is most likely on the MCU board and could be a vast number of things, most of which would not be economical at all to repair.

That comes with the risk of possibly tanking the board you are using for the testing, so that method has it's risks.


An alternative to the board swapping is to take the working controller and measure everything you can inside of it, then compare it to the one that is not working. Far more tedious and isn't always the best at narrowing down where the actual fault is. It also requires knowing a bit about what you're testing and how it should be acting.


Either way, once you get it narrowed down to which board is the issue, then you'll be poking around in there with the DMM and using a power supply to inject voltages here and there and check things, all in all not something the typical gamer is setup to be doing.

If you're in the US, and would like to send it to me shoot me a PM, I'd like to take a crack at it. I can't guarantee I can fix it, but I will find out where the issue with it is, and then everyone will know for any future problems.

I'm trying to get some assistance with a controller. It seems like this is the most active and knowledgeable forum addressing it, so I thought I'd ask here.

A friend was trying to swap the color of her guide/home button LED to blue. She burned off one of the traces and asked if I could take a look at it. I was able to fix it. The video guide she sent me had the LED light up when the top board was connected to the bottom board and powered via USB. I'd also noticed that it would light up when pressed without the bottom board. Anyway, she takes the top board and asks me to do another with an orange LED leaving me with the bottom board for testing (I don't have an xbox one or any controllers).

Here's where it gets messy. I swapped the LED, but it doesn't light up when powered via USB (connected to a 5V 1A phone charger) either when pressing the button or with the lower board connected, unlike the first. I've soldered and resoldered tinkering with it for hours until I'd eventually worn through the connections and had to use lamp wire to connect it to the back. I've also messed with the button traces to make sure those were connecting. The LED works when getting power via multimeter either touching it directly or touching the contacts of the next component in either direction.

To make matters worse, I ordered another board from a guy on ebay with the LED already swapped and that light also works with the multimeter, but it doesn't light up either way when powered via USB.

I've swapped the outlet, power adapter, and cable.

My current theory is:

A) there are multiple variations of boards. The one on controller A would light up when pressed without the lower board, but not the top board from controller B. Controller B's top board and the third top board doesn't work with the bottom board from controller A, but controller A's top board works with B's bottom board (because that's what she ended up doing and it works for her).

It seems neither lower board has a 3.5mm jack. I know that was a second version of the controller.

When that second board arrived and it didn't respond like I'd anticipated I was really stumped.

I only quoted you to hopefully notify you, as you definitely seem to have extensive knowledge of these controllers. If anyone has any ideas, please chime in because I'm really at a loss.

Thank you.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on March 02, 2016, 04:52:42 PM
There are currently 3 versions of the top Power board, but they all work exactly the same at their core. The only real difference is the IR LED control line.

1 - 1537 (first version) has IR LEDs.
2 - 1697 (second version) has no IR LEDs, but kept the same board layout so that IR control line does nothing now.
3 - 1697 (Elite) also has no IR LEDs, but that control line is now the 1-2 switch.

The LED will not light up if the bottom board is not present. I could blather on exactly why, but trust me, it will not.

The only way that it could, is if you happen to get the Guide button pad a little bit offset when pushing it down, and then it will make contact on the Cathode side of the LED grounding it, which will make the LED light up, but that's the only way that can happen with no bottom board attached.


Now, for the thing not lighting up when you have the bottom board in place, you'll need to check the soldering connections there first, as it should. Either connected to a PC USB port or some phone charger, you should get some LED flashing after pressing the Guide button down. Post some good pics of the board if you can and I'll have a look see.

Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Umbra on March 03, 2016, 12:57:19 PM
There are currently 3 versions of the top Power board, but they all work exactly the same at their core. The only real difference is the IR LED control line.

1 - 1537 (first version) has IR LEDs.
2 - 1697 (second version) has no IR LEDs, but kept the same board layout so that IR control line does nothing now.
3 - 1697 (Elite) also has no IR LEDs, but that control line is now the 1-2 switch.

The LED will not light up if the bottom board is not present. I could blather on exactly why, but trust me, it will not.

The only way that it could, is if you happen to get the Guide button pad a little bit offset when pushing it down, and then it will make contact on the Cathode side of the LED grounding it, which will make the LED light up, but that's the only way that can happen with no bottom board attached.


Now, for the thing not lighting up when you have the bottom board in place, you'll need to check the soldering connections there first, as it should. Either connected to a PC USB port or some phone charger, you should get some LED flashing after pressing the Guide button down. Post some good pics of the board if you can and I'll have a look see.

Thanks for the quick response. That makes sense. The LED solder points must've been a little off-kilter and a the button caused a short allowing it to light up. Thanks for the explanation.

Here are pics of the boards in question. Aside from the obvious damage and tinkering with the controller B top board I don't see anything out of the ordinary. If you need me to zoom in or test anything, please let me know. Thanks.

Controller A bottom board:

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FzJI3ez2h.jpg&hash=3fbfd8c46fe451c5ad35f299b6cd7c2a0ca8a596) (http://imgur.com/zJI3ez2)
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FMhFq75yh.jpg&hash=b05c6f2ebe8f3295261b8fd1e1bab8f924a5e19c) (http://imgur.com/MhFq75y)

Controller B top board (the led is connected to lamp wire and it's floating above the board right now):

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FaGFDlKlh.jpg&hash=edae35c604a1f55f6831e5ec01627648544e900e) (http://imgur.com/aGFDlKl)

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FNDTkMqPh.jpg&hash=688415e9eb77fe1ca205438d55d5d78c4960fe08) (http://imgur.com/NDTkMqP)

Ebay top board:

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FavOl6B5h.jpg&hash=b0e2de584c47f7bbf6a93574ac3fbf1d20bd793f) (http://imgur.com/avOl6B5)

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2Fjm68r0Gh.jpg&hash=2caa5cc9e0a3b56e199e17e7bf2e886f1dc87ad8) (http://imgur.com/jm68r0G)


Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on March 03, 2016, 01:57:56 PM
Both of those board versions are the same, and are a match for the MCU board that you are using, but any will really work with any other board, though I wouldn't use an Elite Power board on any of the older MCU boards, but everything you have there is fine.


The MCU board looks
 fine, so if it worked before you started working on the top board, then it should still be alright.

The controller B top board, if the LED polarity is correct, Q3 goes to the Cathode, then R5 goes to the Anode, and that soldering on the LED looks questionable from that pic. You'll want to make sure that wire is not touching the USB connector as it will short to ground.


On that eBay top board, the LED doesn't look at all like it has been soldered on there. It may feel stuck on there, but the flux alone can do that, so it may only have one side half soldered, then the other side insulated from the pad by the flux under it. That doesn't look to me at all like it's been done properly and if that's how you received it I'd let the seller know about it, if nothing else he could have put the LED on straight and not broken J2, unless you did that. I can't make out the polarity from the pic, so if that is correct, Anode + on the left, Cathode - on the right, I'd just take the iron and a very small amount of solder to it and make sure it's actually on there good. Then test the thing out.


Just from what I can see there, it only looks like soldering issues to me, but if you're 100% sure that's all good, or have redone them all and are sure, then you can try this.


First plug up one of the Top boards (no bottom) with a USB cable to some power source, PC or whatever, and set your meter for measuring DC Volts. Flip the board over and place the black lead on the USB connector shield, or any ground spot, then put the Red lead on the top of R5, you should get 3.5v. If not, check on the bottom of R5, if you have 3.5v there, test the top again and make sure. Don't be rough, as you don't want to rip R5 off there, but make sure the lead does gently pierce the solder as sometimes crud can buildup over solder joints and can keep you from getting a good measurement, so you may only get 3.5v on one side from a false test, but as long as you get it on the top side of R5, then that's good and suggests there is an issue with the LED or it's connections, the soldering, polarity, traces or pads. If you have 3.5v on the bottom of R5 and not on the top, then R5 is bad. It is an 80ohms, 0402 SMT Resistor.

If you have no 3.5v at all, then first try some other power source, a USB port on the PC, if there is still no 3.5v, then there is an issue with the regulators and that's a lot more than you'll probably be able to get into diagnosing there.

Unplug the USB cable and set the meter to Ohms. Check R10, it should be around 1.5k (1500ohms).

I have yet to see Q3 fail, as it's just an NPN Transistor, let alone 2 of them fail, so for now I'd leave that of the testing, but that there is everything in the LED circuit. You have 3.5v that is always on when the USB cable is connected. That goes thru R5 to keep the LED from frying. Then the signal for the LED comes thru R10 to Q3 turning it on, and it connects Ground to the LED Cathode and lights it up.

If you have 3.5v on the top of R5, and if R10 is 1.5k, and if the LED connections are good, and if the LED is installed correctly, and it still doesn't work connected to the bottom board, then that MCU board is suspect.


Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Umbra on March 03, 2016, 03:08:13 PM
Both of those board versions are the same, and are a match for the MCU board that you are using, but any will really work with any other board, though I wouldn't use an Elite Power board on any of the older MCU boards, but everything you have there is fine.


The MCU board looks
 fine, so if it worked before you started working on the top board, then it should still be alright.

The controller B top board, if the LED polarity is correct, Q3 goes to the Cathode, then R5 goes to the Anode, and that soldering on the LED looks questionable from that pic. You'll want to make sure that wire is not touching the USB connector as it will short to ground.


On that eBay top board, the LED doesn't look at all like it has been soldered on there. It may feel stuck on there, but the flux alone can do that, so it may only have one side half soldered, then the other side insulated from the pad by the flux under it. That doesn't look to me at all like it's been done properly and if that's how you received it I'd let the seller know about it, if nothing else he could have put the LED on straight and not broken J2, unless you did that. I can't make out the polarity from the pic, so if that is correct, Anode + on the left, Cathode - on the right, I'd just take the iron and a very small amount of solder to it and make sure it's actually on there good. Then test the thing out.


Just from what I can see there, it only looks like soldering issues to me, but if you're 100% sure that's all good, or have redone them all and are sure, then you can try this.


First plug up one of the Top boards (no bottom) with a USB cable to some power source, PC or whatever, and set your meter for measuring DC Volts. Flip the board over and place the black lead on the USB connector shield, or any ground spot, then put the Red lead on the top of R5, you should get 3.5v. If not, check on the bottom of R5, if you have 3.5v there, test the top again and make sure. Don't be rough, as you don't want to rip R5 off there, but make sure the lead does gently pierce the solder as sometimes crud can buildup over solder joints and can keep you from getting a good measurement, so you may only get 3.5v on one side from a false test, but as long as you get it on the top side of R5, then that's good and suggests there is an issue with the LED or it's connections, the soldering, polarity, traces or pads. If you have 3.5v on the bottom of R5 and not on the top, then R5 is bad. It is an 80ohms, 0402 SMT Resistor.

If you have no 3.5v at all, then first try some other power source, a USB port on the PC, if there is still no 3.5v, then there is an issue with the regulators and that's a lot more than you'll probably be able to get into diagnosing there.

Unplug the USB cable and set the meter to Ohms. Check R10, it should be around 1.5k (1500ohms).

I have yet to see Q3 fail, as it's just an NPN Transistor, let alone 2 of them fail, so for now I'd leave that of the testing, but that there is everything in the LED circuit. You have 3.5v that is always on when the USB cable is connected. That goes thru R5 to keep the LED from frying. Then the signal for the LED comes thru R10 to Q3 turning it on, and it connects Ground to the LED Cathode and lights it up.

If you have 3.5v on the top of R5, and if R10 is 1.5k, and if the LED connections are good, and if the LED is installed correctly, and it still doesn't work connected to the bottom board, then that MCU board is suspect.

Again, thank you so much for a quick and detailed response. Controller B's top board is a mess from experimentation, but the wires connecting the LED to the back aren't touching anything else (when the negative side touches the USB connector when plugged in it'll short and light up.


The LEDs are wired with he correct polarity. the multimeter lights them both up with the red probe on the left, but not vice versa.

The LED on the ebay one is positioned a little low, but the connections look good. If I press the multimeter into the spots above Q3 and R5 on the back the light comes on, so I think there's connectivity through the board.

On both top boards the voltage at either side of R5 is 3.52V, this extends all the way to the positive side of the LED. If R5 is a resistor, should the voltage drop here? The R10 on both is 1.5K ohms.

One thing I did note is that when putting the red probe on the negative side of the LED (and the black at the USB ground) gives me 1.91V on one and 1.95V on the other (the ebay one is more of a yellow). So there appears to be a voltage drop across the LED, but no light (this is both with and without a bottom board). So maybe the amperage isn't there or these LEDS don't want to play nicely with the voltages.

The bottom board worked when I tried the blue LED in controller A on it and I've been careful with it since. If I had other controllers to work with I could do substitution. So you think both of these top boards should work with either revision bottom board? I might have to buy a used one.

If you have any other ideas please let me know. You've be extraordinary helpful. Thanks again
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on March 03, 2016, 03:51:37 PM
If your meter is making the LEDs light up then the board can do it.

The Resistor is in there as a current limiter, and you're not going to measure any voltage drop at it on an open circuit.

That 1.91v and 1.95v is the measurement from both boards? If so then that sounds right, as you will measure a drop there because it's a semiconductor.

Try this, just the top board again, plug up the USB cable and flip it over, take some piece of wire, few inches or so, and jumper the bottom of R5, to pin 2 of J2, the left side connector. Pin 2 is at the bottom right hand corner of J2 and is marked with a 2. You don't have to stick the wire inside the connector, and I don't recommend that in case something shorts, you can touch the lead on the board where it's soldered to the left of the 2 marking.

What should happen is the LED comes on, if it doesn't turn on, then Q3 is bad. That will test 100% of the LED circuit from the control line to the power supply for it, which we already know is good at 3.52v, so if the LED comes on, then the bottom board might have some issue, or, there could be some other power issue up on that top board, as it's doing quite a few different things.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Umbra on March 03, 2016, 04:48:37 PM
If your meter is making the LEDs light up then the board can do it.

The Resistor is in there as a current limiter, and you're not going to measure any voltage drop at it on an open circuit.

That 1.91v and 1.95v is the measurement from both boards? If so then that sounds right, as you will measure a drop there because it's a semiconductor.

Try this, just the top board again, plug up the USB cable and flip it over, take some piece of wire, few inches or so, and jumper the bottom of R5, to pin 2 of J2, the left side connector. Pin 2 is at the bottom right hand corner of J2 and is marked with a 2. You don't have to stick the wire inside the connector, and I don't recommend that in case something shorts, you can touch the lead on the board where it's soldered to the left of the 2 marking.

What should happen is the LED comes on, if it doesn't turn on, then Q3 is bad. That will test 100% of the LED circuit from the control line to the power supply for it, which we already know is good at 3.52v, so if the LED comes on, then the bottom board might have some issue, or, there could be some other power issue up on that top board, as it's doing quite a few different things.

Thanks for the information.

The 1.91V is for one board and 1.95V is for the other. I attribute this to the different color of the LEDs. I don't recall which reading was for which, if it matters I can find out.

Is pin 2 on the top or bottom row. It sounds like it's the bottom, but I don't see a 2. Is this the connection you'd like me to establish?

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FBmULsCBh.jpg&hash=1e8e01e7baea7cfb4333e0b33b93fdafcbd58f12) (http://imgur.com/BmULsCB)

I made this connection, from the bottom right pin on J2 to the lower connection on R5 and on both controllers the LED lit up.

It sounds like we're running out of things to test on the top boards and it seems unlikely (though not impossible) that both top boards are bad.

I've looked over the bottom board and nothing looks out of place, but some of the SMD components are remarkably tiny. Maybe with all the plugging and unplugging a tiny crack developed in the solder on one of the pins securing the connectors to the board (J5 and J6?). I could try reflowing that. My other thought was maybe something came loose on the opposite side when I used my fingers to press the boards together. One connector has nothing on opposite side, but J6 has a ton going on on the other side.

On a somewhat related note: if I get another controller to substitute parts with - do you know if I could use a board from a wired controller?

I can't thank you enough for helping me. I had no idea anyone has this much insight into these boards, let alone would be willing to help.



Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on March 03, 2016, 05:09:59 PM
Yeah that's pin 2, I was looking on the board I have here versus your pics, but that's it.

That mess under JJ6 on the other side of the MCU board is the RF module. It's power would have to be shorted out for it to keep the controller from turning on, and you'd almost have to do that on purpose as removing any of the parts on it isn't going to do that.

I''s possible that some of the joints on J1, J2, J5 or J6 could ahve come loose, but you should be able to see that with a magnifying glass and moving them around a bit.

So that pretty much confirms everything in the LED circuit and the LED is good. So after a look at the connectors, if you see nothing iffy, lets plug the boards together and start poking around.

Plug the USB cable back up and check the voltages on TP7 and TP9. They are both on the right hand side, looking at the bottom of the MCU board.

There are no official wired XB1 controllers. The wireless one works as a wired with the USB cable, but so far that's it.  Any XB1 wired controller will be 3rd party and for sure not have anything even remotely compatible inside of it.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Umbra on March 03, 2016, 06:24:23 PM
Yeah that's pin 2, I was looking on the board I have here versus your pics, but that's it.

That mess under JJ6 on the other side of the MCU board is the RF module. It's power would have to be shorted out for it to keep the controller from turning on, and you'd almost have to do that on purpose as removing any of the parts on it isn't going to do that.

I''s possible that some of the joints on J1, J2, J5 or J6 could ahve come loose, but you should be able to see that with a magnifying glass and moving them around a bit.

So that pretty much confirms everything in the LED circuit and the LED is good. So after a look at the connectors, if you see nothing iffy, lets plug the boards together and start poking around.

Plug the USB cable back up and check the voltages on TP7 and TP9. They are both on the right hand side, looking at the bottom of the MCU board.

There are no official wired XB1 controllers. The wireless one works as a wired with the USB cable, but so far that's it.  Any XB1 wired controller will be 3rd party and for sure not have anything even remotely compatible inside of it.

I tried both boards on the MCU board and TP7 reads ~3.53V and TP9 reads ~3.34V (give or take 0.01V).

I went ran some liquid flux over the board connections for the pins and ran a flat tipped soldering iron over them. While the iron was hot I also desoldered the rumble motors and what I think are the RB/LB buttons. I don't think removing those would matter for testing. I pushed the boards together and nada. Then I put the rubber/carbon button over it and pressed and to my great surprise I got a blinking orange light! Swapped the board and got a blinking yellow-orange light! I think that was it. I couldn't see any cracks, but it was either that or the removal of one of those wired components and those hadn't been tampered with yet.

Thank you so very much for helping me through that! Can I paypal you a few bucks for your trouble?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on March 03, 2016, 06:47:59 PM
Have you not been pressing the Guide button after plugging it up? I mentioned that quite awhile back. ;) Either way, long as they work now.

The LB/RB are mounted to the Top board. Those Gray and Black wires are for the Trigger Rumble motors.

Thanks but no worries, I was here working on some FPC design anyway, and your pics made up for it, versus some that I get for troubleshooting, which could be a PCB or Nessy for all I can make out.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Umbra on March 03, 2016, 07:27:02 PM
Have you not been pressing the Guide button after plugging it up? I mentioned that quite awhile back. ;) Either way, long as they work now.

The LB/RB are mounted to the Top board. Those Gray and Black wires are for the Trigger Rumble motors.

Thanks but no worries, I was here working on some FPC design anyway, and your pics made up for it, versus some that I get for troubleshooting, which could be a PCB or Nessy for all I can make out.

Yes, I had been pressing the guide button (or in the case of the butchered top board -  the wires I soldered in when it looked like continuity was being severed on the lower carbon pad). I sometimes overlook stupid liitle things like that and kick myself later, but luckily not this time.

Thanks so much for all your help! You saved me from having to buy and dismantle another controller for a console I don't have.  :#1:



Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on March 20, 2016, 03:03:48 PM
This should have been posted in the DS4 section.

Not really getting the exact issue you're having there, it doesn't work, then you do it again and it does? Then test it while it is working so you can see what's going on there. If you mean with your wire on there it doesn't work, then removing the wire and it does, then whatever the other end of your wire is connected to is causing it, as a wire alone will not do that, or your solder joint could be hitting something else, or so big it's wrecking the connection to the Daughter board when it's in place, the FPC with the button contacts on it, as it needs to be connected for the Triggers to work correctly.

Trace the daughter board out and you'll see some of what's going on there with the Triggers, but you'll need to scope that line to really see it. Then trace back from that pad 18 on the motherboard and solder there instead. Every version of controller has a better place to use for making a test spot than that carbon pad.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: reeso3000 on April 11, 2016, 03:44:13 PM
Hi Rdc,
 Firstly great job and thanks for the time and effort you put in creating this thread! Secondly - I have a 1697 controller that will not power on  - the light will pulse once when a usb cable is attached(sometimes) but there is no life with the controller. From the info you have provided I have checked various voltages while the usb was attached as seen below:-
 

U1

Left to right with usb socket at top of board
Pin
1 - 0v                  5 - 0.58v
2 - 0.62v             6 - 0v
3 - 4.95v             7 - 0.09v
4 - 0v                  8 - 4.65v

U2

Top to bottom left side first usb socket at top of board

1 - 2.95v               5 - 2.88v
2 - 3.53v               6 - 1.22v
3 - 2.96v               7 - 0v
4 - 0v                    8 - 0v

U3

Top to bottom left side first usb socket at top of board

1 - 0.55v              5 - 0.01v
2 - 0.16v              6 - 0.03v
3 - 0.56v              7 - 0v
4 - 0v                   8 - 0v


TP6,TP8,TP9,TP11 - 0v TP5- 5v

J1
8 - 5v

J2
1 - 2.97V
4 - 0.21V

Just wondering if you could shed any sort of light on where the issue might lie - It appears there is no 3.3v getting through to the secondary board. Wondering if u3 might be the culprit but I would imagine it would at least receive a voltage on one of the pins which doesn't seem to be the case. My electronics knowledge is lacking but im ok with soldering. if you (or anyone else!) has any suggestions I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!!
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 11, 2016, 10:22:14 PM
Right off I see there is no 5v on pin 2 of U1, but you do have it on pin 8, this is assuming you have those pin numbers all correct?

The dot on the board at the corner indicates pin 1, then it goes..
Code: [Select]
O < dot on PCB
  1 --    -- 8
  2 --    -- 7
  3 --    -- 6
  4 --    -- 5

Regardless though, pin 2 should have 5v on it (~4.6v) when the microUSB cable is connected, so that suggests an issue with R1 or D23, then worst case U1.

Since you have no voltage on pin 2, first check R1 and make sure it is 0ohms. Then D23 could have been knocked off the board or opened up internally, but that's where I'd start.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: reeso3000 on April 12, 2016, 01:44:33 PM
Hi Rdc,

Sorry I didn't realise the white dot indicated pin 1 so the correct voltages are are as follows: -


U1
Pin 1- 0v             Pin 5 - 4.65
Pin 2 - 4.88v       Pin 6 - 0.09
Pin 3 - 0.60v       Pin 7 - 0
Pin 4 - 0v            Pin 8 - 0.57

D23 5.07v and 4.88v

U2

Pin 1 - 0.53    Pin 5 - 0.53
Pin 2 - 0.73    Pin 6 - 0.25
Pin 3 - 0.50    Pin 7 - 0
Pin 4 - 0         Pin 8 - 0

U3

Pin 1 - 0.56    Pin 5 - 0.01
Pin 2 - 0.12    Pin 6 - 0.03
Pin 3 - 0.56    Pin 7 - 0
Pin 4 - 0         Pin 8 - 0

For some reason having re-checked I am no longer get 3v on pin 1 J2 (0.56) and also the reading on u2 have all dropped well below 3v
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 12, 2016, 02:24:21 PM
That still looks wrong, pin 2 and pin 8 should have the 5v on them, not pin 2 and pin 5. The pin numbers go in a U shape, not in rows.

O < dot
  1               8
  2               7
  3               6
  4 ->->->- 5



U1 should measure more like this..

1 - 4.3v          8 - 4.3v
2 - ~4.6v        7 - 0.6v
3 - 3v             6 - 0v
4 - 0v             5 - 3v


Post a few pics of your board if you can.

You for sure have something up with that U1 circuit, as pin 1 is PG (Power Good) and it's not on, nor is there any 3v out of it anywhere, so it's not working, or it's something after that shorted, but we need to start there first.

Is the L2 component on your board? It should be on the other side of the PCB right under U1. There is one close to each of those ICs, U1 has L2, U2 has L3 and U3 has L4. I've seen L2 get knocked off the board before and if it's missing that would cause the incorrect voltage readings you're getting there.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: reeso3000 on April 12, 2016, 03:00:32 PM
Hi RDC,
 Please see pictures attached. The L2,L3 and L4 components are all present. I am embarrassed to say I read your first post on my phone and missed the part where you show the pins going in a U! My apologies, the correct reading for U1 is:-

Pin 1 - 0
Pin 2 - 4.88
Pin 3 - 0.60
Pin 4 - 0
Pin 5 - 0.57
Pin 6 - 0
Pin 7 - 0
Pin 8 - 4.65

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs23.postimg.org%2F6jnbcvy5z%2F20160412_225351_HDR.jpg&hash=90e5a56ce6a667ed6025c1b9a8ab32a0e71dd193) (http://postimg.org/image/6jnbcvy5z/)

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs23.postimg.org%2Fbjkrku3sn%2F20160412_225413_HDR.jpg&hash=53a737dc5893e6e9d9833c8963182eb0d07a30ac) (http://postimg.org/image/bjkrku3sn/)

Thanks

Ps The purple wire you see in the pictures is just a wire I soldered to ground to make testing easier
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 12, 2016, 03:32:09 PM
No biggie, just need to get on the same page is all.

Unplug the microUSB cable and measure the Resistance at U1 from pin 3 to pin 5. Never have any power in there when checking Resistance.

Also measure the Resistance from pin 5 of U1 to Ground. Put the Black lead on pin 5 an Red lead on Ground.


Where exactly is that wire soldered to for your ground? Pin 14 of J2? If so that's fine.

Also, be aware that this board will not power up on it's own, it must be connected tot he MCU board for the Guide button to turn it on, but you don't need it connected for any of these tests so far.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: reeso3000 on April 12, 2016, 04:08:35 PM
Thanks for the prompt responses
The readings I got are:-

3 to 5 -  0
5 to ground - 000.7/8

As for the purple wire it is indeed soldered to 14

Thanks

Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 12, 2016, 04:58:26 PM
Alright, that pin 3 to pin 5 measurement is good. But, that pin 5 to Ground measurement is far too low, it should be around 2k, so something is most likely shorted on that rail. That's the good news, the bad news is that it goes to a lot of places, so there are many, many, many things that it could be, including even U1 as the cause, so....

I'm not seeing anything from your pics that stands out as a cause for that, so now you're left with having to pull component after component that is connected to pin 5 of U1 until you find the offending one, and even then you may not as it could be U1 that's gone and shorted.

Pin 5 of U1 is the output, there should be 3v on there when the microUSB cable is connected, but you have a short somewhere on that rail killing that. Now that could be..

U1, U2 or U3 causing it, as well as 6 or 7 different capacitors, a solder bridge or internal damage between pins 3 and 4 of U1 or between 5 and 6 of U1, a solder bridge or internal damage between pins 3 and 4 of U2, a solder bridge or internal damage between pins 3 and 4 of U3, a solder bridge between pins 1 and 3 of J2, and those are just things that are right on the rail. The more I'm going to look into this the more I'll find that would need to be checked.


What is a little perplexing is that you said you had 3v on pin 1 of J2 at some point, then at that point U1 was working correctly as pin 5 of U1 (which didn't measure 3v at that time) is connected to pin 1 of J2, that did measure 3v, which either means something was tested wrong there or something is intermittent on that board and it has finally decided to stay in the 'bad' spot.

That's an interesting one for sure, and if you're not up for laying into it, then PM me, because I for sure will. I was able to pretty much duplicate your board measurements putting a short on that rail to ground, but that does nothing for narrowing it down there, it's kind of a mole hunt now.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: reeso3000 on April 12, 2016, 05:32:56 PM

Thank you again for your prompt replies and details on tests I can try. As I mentioned previously u2 was getting too hot to touch so I thought I would start there. Anyway by removing u2 I now have the following voltages -

U1

Pin 1 - 4.76
pin 2 - 5.07
Pin 3 - 2.98
Pin 4 - 0
Pin 5 - 2.98
Pin 6 - 0
Pin 7 - 0
Pin 8 -4.63

U2 (Pads the pins were attached to)
Pin 1- 2.98
Pin 2 - 0
Pin 3 - 2.98
Pin 4 - 0
Pin 5 - 2.98
Pin 6 - 0
Pin 7 - 0
Pin 8 - 0


U3

Pin 1 - 2.96
Pin 2 - 0
Pin 3 - 2.98
Pin 4 - 0
pin 5 - 0
Pin 6 - 0
Pin 7 - 0
Pin 8 - 0

Also now have 3v on pin 1 of J2

Does this point to it being u2 as the fault or could I have just taken the faulty component out of the circuit if its attached to u2? If it is u2 do you know if these dc converters can be purchased anywhere?

Thanks again :D
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 12, 2016, 06:01:16 PM
You never mentioned anywhere that U2 or anything at all was getting hot before now, or I'd have suggested removing that awhile ago.

That could mean that U2 is bad, or that something on it's output rail is bad.

The closest thing I've found to a replacement for U2/U3 is the PM3414DJ by MPS, and you can get them from DigiKey, Mouser or the like.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: reeso3000 on April 13, 2016, 01:28:50 AM
Hi Rdc, I only noticed it last night while doing the extra checks apologies once again for any time of yours I wasted! I thought I had edited and added a post or 2 ago. Found the chip you mentioned so thank you for that.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 13, 2016, 02:22:19 AM
Welcome. Not wasted perse, but it would have sped things up some as we could have started there, but it's good to know that everything before there works now, as that can come back and get you later on anyway, not checking things that you think are good.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: MDave on April 19, 2016, 10:10:04 AM
Hello! On my quest to search for Xbox One analog module component specifications (specifically to figure out the resistor value use) I came across this board.

Now the mod I am trying to do is not for an Xbox one controller, but I do use the Alps analog modules to replace some cheap lesser quality ones in another kind of controller entirely. I got it to work, but I figure the ohms or something in the resistor values are different and that's why I get full value sensitivity from pushing the analog stick even just a little bit.

I did a youtube video of the controller mod and to show it's results (before and after): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_rVVGzepVck (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_rVVGzepVck)

If anyone could guide me on the right track to fixing the sensitivity, that would be great! I apologise, I am very new to electronic engineering and I don't know all the correct terminologies yet.

I think I understand that I would have to replace the tiny surface mount resistors (two of them) that are near the analog stick modules on the board to ones that match the Xbox One's resistors?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 19, 2016, 12:16:41 PM
Strap in, this ended up a bit longer than I figured...

They are just using the motors to give the controller some heft, so it doesn't feel like the complete POS that it really is, and most likely they're using only 1 now to make it even cheaper for them to make them. Less parts, less time spent making them, less weight for shipping, that all adds up. 

The 5v 500mAh rating on the back is for when it is connected with a USB cable, hence the 'Input' before the DC5V 500mAh spec, that's not the battery rating.

The XB1 controllers have no Resistors in the Stick circuits, and the Capacitor values in there will make little to no difference at all.

The value of the Stick makes 0 difference. They are all typically 10k, but if they are 1k, 10k or 100k they would work exactly the same as they are just used as voltage dividers, I'll get to that in a bit.

Without seeing the guts of the thing it's hard to tell what your options are, but the actual Stick doesn't account for as much of the overall performance of the controller as much as the way that it has been coded to work, and there is really jack all you can do about that. If that thing has any kind of calibration routine on startup or waits until you have moved the Sticks to their max ranges, then it becomes a real mess to get around, as you have to let it calibrate to the crap values, then switch up and input your own.

Being that it is too sensitive, the only thing you can try to do is add a couple of Resistors to each POT (Potentiometer) to kind of deaden it's sensitivity.

So a little background on how these things work. They are just a voltage divider. Imagine a scale from 0 to 10.

0-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10

In the very middle is 5, so at dead center you would read 5. If you move more to the left, the numbers decrease, more to the right and the numbers increase.

The same thing happens with the Stick and it's Voltage on that center lead of the POT, as it's just a Variable Resistor.

Code: [Select]
GROUND = 0v
VOLTAGE = 10v

GROUND ---/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\--- VOLTAGE
                   ^
                   |
                   |
                 WIPER

Sitting in the middle, you would measure 5v on the Wiper. The more you move it in one direction the close it gets to Ground, and the Wiper voltage goes down, then the more you move in the other direction, the closer it gets to Voltage and the Wiper voltage goes up. The value of the POT has no real bearing here, well technically it does as far as current is concerned, but you will measure the exact same voltage on a 10k or a 100k POT in the same positions as the difference between them is the same.

If it was a 10K POT, you' have 5k on each side. For a 100k POT, you'd have 50k on each side. No matter what it's the same, again only talking about voltage and that's what is measured there to tell where you have the Stick positioned.

http://www.raltron.com/cust/tools/voltage_divider.asp (http://www.raltron.com/cust/tools/voltage_divider.asp)

The issue there is, it's not really using the full range of that Stick, and seems like only half or so is being used, so what you can try and do is to 'pad' the outside leads with some Resistance, so you then have to move the Stick farther to get the same voltage on the Wiper.

On the Stick, each POT has 3 leads. The Outside leads are power and ground, and these are the ones you need to have the Resistors on. They need to be between the Stick and PCB (Printed Circuit Board, the controller board) and without seeing the PCB I can't even guess at the best way for you to implement that as it could be dual layer or who knows what in there. But the Resistors must go between the Stick and the POT leads.

PCB to Resistor to POT (outside lead, power)

PCB to POT (center lead)

PCB to POT (outside lead, ground)

As far as the Resistor value goes, I'd start with 1k (1000ohms) as it's easy to get and will make enough difference to tell if it's doing anything, but not so much that it will be way off and not work. You would be best off using some high tolerance Resistors, 1% or lower, versus the standard 5% ones, as you could end up with some drift (stick moving on it's own while at rest) if the values between the Resistors used is too great. You ideally want them to be identical, so the lower the tolerance % the better.

What that does is change the way the Voltage Divider works, and comparing that to the number scale from before, it would look like this now.
Code: [Select]
          0-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10               < how it was
0---1---2---3---4---5---6---7---8---9---10     < how it is with the added Resistors
At the very center you still have 5, but you have to move farther now to get to any other number.

With the Stick, the Voltage Divider now looks like this.

Code: [Select]
GROUND = 0v
VOLTAGE = 10v

GROUND ---/\/\---/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\---/\/\--- VOLTAGE
                         ^
                         |
                         |
                       WIPER

At the center you still get 5v on the Wiper, but you have to move the Stick more now to get to the lower and higher voltages.

The catch with this is, you can never get to the very end of either side now, as the added Resistance you're putting in there is fixed. All that you'll be able to change is the value in the middle from moving the Stick. This doesn't really matter though as you're not needing it to be variable, you're just wanting to widen that range some so you can decrease the sensitivity.

Being how close the POTs of the XB1 Sticks sit against the board, you're not likely to get them installed without having to do some trace cutting on the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) and I'd for sure need to see both sides of the PCB, with the stick removed, before I could suggest the best way of going about that.

Now, the kick in the shorts, as I already mentioned, is if that thing is doing some kind of weird arse calibration on startup, or after you move the sticks around, then all it's going to do is calibrate off of the new values and then work exactly the same, or worse, than it already is. That's when you'd have to get far more technical to correct the issue. I'd only try this on 1 of the Stick's Axis before doing the entire thing.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: MDave on April 19, 2016, 01:26:48 PM
Ahh thanks for the extremely informative reply! Glad to know how these things work now. I will answer as best I can:

Yes it seems like it gets calibrated after I tilt the sticks all the way on first push after powering it up / plugging the controller in. You might be able to see this in the video upon first push of the sticks, the axis red bar in Window's game controller setting shows it going to full sensitivity.

I took some shots of the unmodded one:

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fpuu.sh%2FoorzC%2F79da21d873.jpg&hash=6cffb2a14261c24f66b920417bf803cb616e09ad)
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fpuu.sh%2FoorVb%2Fa8ec9eda9f.jpg&hash=4e3f1c7d346e17bb80d161dfc35338f725b3eb9c)
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fpuu.sh%2FoorYm%2F11c38eeb33.jpg&hash=fa821d33df35e7d67570cfa1372d5a9d36bbd126)
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fpuu.sh%2Foos2U%2F5fcc7ab599.jpg&hash=9199f970d37f0883e15d2eb47950e41f07710383)

It looks like there is some pads on the left edge of the main board that I could possibly use, to bypass the ribbon cable connection and analog stick board traces ...

And yeah, it looks like its a simple single sided board. There is nothing underneath the analog stick module, no visible traces.

I will see about getting some 1k resistors and doing some sort of test. Resistors between the Stick and Pot leads, got it!
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 19, 2016, 01:57:07 PM
That could just be Windows doing that, no way to exactly tell until it's modified, then tested again.

The PCB is dual sided. You can't see the power trace for one of the Axis on the Right Stick board, as it's on the other side under the Stick.

That won't be very difficult at all to get a couple Resistors in there, and the way they have that setup you could even do it with only using 2 Resistor per Stick board.


I don't see a voltage pad in that group, so you'll need to find that first with a DMM so you know what the Sticks are using for power.

Then pick a side and remove the FPC cable to the Stick board and the main board, set it aside as you'll not be needing it for this.

Install the first 1k from the voltage pad/source to one of the POTs outside leads. It doesn't matter which POT you choose, as they are connected on that board, but you must make sure that it is the Voltage side, which is the outside lead that has the thin trace connected to it.

The other outside lead is the Ground side and is connected directly to the ground plane, no thin traces going to it, and again either one can be used. That side of the POT you need to connect to the GND pad on the main board thru the second 1k Resistor.

The _ from here on is for L or R depending on which side you choose to test on.

The _X and _Y will each go to the center lead of the POTs. The _X is for left/right, _Y is for up/down.

The _T pad will go to that _2 Tact there on the bottom of the board, just follow the trace from the connector to it and use that solder joint.

The _3 pad will go to the Stick button lead, again just follow the trace from the connector to the solder joint and use it.

The PWR_RESET pad goes to the RESET Tact (if you decide to test on that board)

All total, you'll have 4 wires (5 if the Reset side is used) and 2 Resistors connecting the Stick board to the main board instead of the Flex cable.

This will make the buttons also run thru that 1k to ground when pressed, but it's a common ground setup and that value should not really mess with them.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: MDave on April 19, 2016, 02:23:30 PM
Thank you very much for the corrections and detailed instructions! I suspect that the top pin on the flex cable (above the PWR_RESET pin) is GND and the bottom pin (below the _T pin) is the voltage/power so I will follow that trace on the underside of the main board.

I need to get hold of a DMM and resistors before I proceed then. Guessing these would do? 1/2W 0.5W Metal Film Resistor 1% Tolerance 1 Ohm (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2W-0-5W-Metal-Film-Resistor-1-Tolerance-1-Ohm-4-7M-Ohm-/261964679700?var=&hash=item3cfe4fca14:m:msUTXaQeiBXdGvr3OL9iwmg)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 19, 2016, 03:25:21 PM
1/2W would work, but are kind of large. You only need 1/4W at most, and even 1/8W will do here, but the 1/2W will work just the same.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: MDave on April 23, 2016, 09:50:32 AM
Alright progress update! Got the resistors through the post, and I managed to test with the resistors, and upon testing ... it's even more sensitive! However, if I detach the resistors and connect them back, all while the controller is still connected, it does the trick of lowering the sensitivity almost perfectly. It doesn't quite reach full sensitivity when pushed all the way (about 90%), but its miles better then before. It centres perfectly, and no stick drift. I might be mistaken on it being more sensitive than before upon start up with the added resistors, but it looks like it does do the auto calibration you mentioned. Ahh well, not much I can do about that I think. It was a fun project seeing how far I can go modding this controller, but I think I have hit a dead end. Thanks for all the help though!

Unless I somehow mod in some switches that unplugs and reconnects the resistor leads, hah. A bit too extreme for something like this though.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 23, 2016, 10:17:05 AM
I did mention that could happen. ;)


You'd only need a single DPST (Double Pole Single Throw) switch in there to pull that off if you wanted to get into it.

You also only need 2 Resistor for the whole mess in there, as both Stick boards can be powered from the same Resistors.

After that, you'd just wire it all up with the 2 Resistors in there, then have the DPST switch wired across the Resistors. When the switch is on, the voltage and ground go straight thru it to the Stick boards, just like nothing was ever done to the controller, then after the controller starts up, you can flip the switch and the contacts will open up putting your Resistors in line to the Stick boards.

DPST shown in the closed position.

(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/DPST%20Switch.jpg)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: MDave on April 26, 2016, 03:40:22 PM
Thanks again for the help! When I come to revisit this mod, and when I have money to buy the hardware to make it possible, will take another crack at it!

I don't have the experience with using something like a dremel to perfectly fit a switch into the case, hah. By the time I have invested the money into a mod like this, I might as well have got a proper Xbox One-like controller that has the Bluetooth and other features I was after to make it usable across many different devices and hardware. But I don't think such a thing exists, with this iPega 9037 being the closest I came across. I'm sorry if I derailed this forum thread with my stuff on that. I would probably destroy a few controllers along the way, with one I already sort of broke.

The iPega 9037 is a good controller to modify though! At least to use the plastic casing. If I could make my own internals and PCB's, and could throw in the high quality components the Xbox One controller uses, I would be happy. But I am a ways off that dream!

I'm a software developer first, and a hardware modder dead last hah.

http://www.third-helix.com/2013/04/12/doing-thumbstick-dead-zones-right.html (http://www.third-helix.com/2013/04/12/doing-thumbstick-dead-zones-right.html)

This is useful stuff I came across for software developers to try and mitigate stick deadzones and sensitivity issues, will implement in one of my current projects and see how well that works with the controller.

Cheers again RDC!
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 26, 2016, 04:31:25 PM
Welcome.

You don't really need a Dremel to drill a hole, and you don't even really need a drill, just the bit, a little tape and some elbow grease would do, it's plastic, not Titanium. ;)

I've been to that site before, and it's all good if you're the one coding everything, but when you're trying to make Sticks work better on crappy controllers, it's not really of much help at all. The code could be spot on and use ever decimal place in the float, but then you have the tolerance of the POTs on the Stick, and the nasty mechanical tolerance of the things deal with, which is where really most of the issues come from. Those things never return to center when released, and are different when released fast or slow, and from one side to the other, plus no 2 are every exactly alike and then the more they get used the worse they get. Then the best part, the more you screw around with the Dead Zone, the more you inadvertently mess with the max ranges. So there is always this see-saw battle going on to get them just right, and then when you do, or close enough, you'll be the only one that likes them that way as no 2 gamers are the same either.

The XB1 controllers are calibrated after they are built (just from my observations of how they work) as the controller is always looking for those original Stick jvalues for center. Then if you have a Stick go bad, and sooner or later you will, you're in for a real mess. You can't even SouthPaw one without it being all out of whack, unless you get very, very lucky and have one where the Sticks were close enough initially in value that the calibration they do on them isn't too far off when they're swapped.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: scharfe1 on May 21, 2016, 12:48:14 PM
Hope this is an ok place to post this.

I have an xbox one controller, one of the connectors that join the boards had a cold solder and fell off yesterday, I managed to fix the connector but looks like a transistor blew up too.

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1373.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fag380%2Fscharfe1%2Fxbox%2Fxbox%2520one%2520conn_zpsk8pf61ta.jpg&hash=75915803d12b9cf0efafa7aef5b36162a5c71702)[/URL][/img]

Any idea what Q8 could be?

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1373.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fag380%2Fscharfe1%2Fxbox%2F20160521_103325_zps6pr8jlmw.jpg&hash=a8fe5d9bffdc71720a1d4b30174ce6bd456a7e28)[/URL][/img]

Thanks
Bob
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on May 21, 2016, 12:55:52 PM
It's a run of the mill PNP Transistor, MMBT3906.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: scharfe1 on May 21, 2016, 01:50:03 PM
It's a run of the mill PNP Transistor, MMBT3906.

RDC, you are my hero  :tup:, will any MMBT3906 in the correct package size work then? Don't suppose you know the package size, looks like it might be a SOT523?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on May 23, 2016, 06:01:22 PM
Yeah it's an SOT-523, -416 or -490 package, they're all pretty much the same size. SC-75 or SC-89 will fit also.

1 - Base
2 - Emitter
3 - Collector

That doesn't mean it will fix it, as there could be something else on the board there that caused that to blow up, or it could just be mechanical damage that was done to it.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: oxonater on May 24, 2016, 02:41:19 PM
Hi everyone newbie here, just wondered if anyone has experienced a no sync problem with the x1 controller, is there a particular chip that could be at fault on the mcu board any help greatly appreciated thanx OXY. :hifive: :tup:
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: scharfe1 on May 24, 2016, 07:50:13 PM
Thanks again RCD, I replaced the part, an its still dead, guess something else is down. Past my knowledge base haha.

Oxanater, I have no I idea the answer but I have two controllers with the same issue, would be nice to know.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on May 24, 2016, 08:07:24 PM
@sharfe1 - If you know for a fact the issue is on the power board there, it's not too difficult to troubleshoot it with a DMM, but it's also easier to just swap the board out with a working one.

Have you all plugged the controller directly into the XB1? I haven't messed with that particular issue before, but on the 360 doing so with the PnC cable would force the controller to sync and sometimes correct a no sync issue, worth a try if it hasn't been already.

If that doesn't correct it, then the Sync button is what I'd check first, as it's a Tact like any other and prone to fail sooner or later. Even though it may 'click' that's no guarantee it's making a connection internally. If the switch is good, and all of it's traces to the MCU, then it's either the MCU or RF module that would be at fault, not really much you could do in either case there.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: oxonater on May 25, 2016, 05:28:03 AM
Hello thank you for your responses

It does indeed work whilst connected to the X1 but strangely enough still will not sync, light flashes as if it wants too and you can see the IR leds flashing however still no sync. I have traced all connections to the MCU and all seem intact, seems to be more of a no signal issue.

Just wondered if anyone new the particular component that controls the signal between controller and console.

Thanx Oxy :clap:
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: scharfe1 on May 25, 2016, 05:01:34 PM
@rcd  - Tried plugging it into the xbox directly, still didn't work. It might be a bigger issue than just syncing, As soon as you put batteries in it the home button (white button with x symbol) just flashes forever, can't even turn the controller off. Thanks again for all the help, it is very much appreciated.

Im thinking about trying to take my no power controller's top board that has the sync button and wireless on it and put it with the bottom board of the no sync controller. Only thing is they seem to be different generations. Not sure if it will work haha.


 
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on May 25, 2016, 08:27:31 PM
The boards between the 1537 and 1697 are pretty much the same, but they turned the LB/RB buttons around on the 1697, so you'd have to use the frame from that one.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: SchwarzerAfri902 on June 03, 2016, 03:58:02 PM
Heyho from Germany,

I was looking through the net to solve my problem and i think that you could my last hope that saves me from buying a new controller for my best friend.


A few weeks ago, the right stick was moving up all time after a fell of the controller. I decided to buy a new stick unit and change it as is have some little soldering skills. I'm aware of the calibration problem but i did it on 2 models before and both went good.

My problem now is that during removal of the old unit, at least one soldering pad from the x axis of the stick ripped off.

From my skills and your Pictures, il could already figure out where the middle of the 3 pins "goes to", but thats the good pad left there, my problem has to be at one of the sided solder pads.
I cant figure out where the lanes run along, from bottom view i think they go from the pads left and right directly to thetiny holes above, or?

So i would be very happy if you could give me an image or can name/show me a point where incan solder the right/left pin for the rights stick x axis pins. So i can see where those 3 lines run along.

Sorry for the horrible grammar, i'm pretty rusted since schooltime.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on June 04, 2016, 05:19:45 AM
Looking at the bottom of the board, like in the images, under the Right stick, the left/right pins are AN+ and Ground.

AN+ | X | GND

You can just jumper the AN+ and GND to the Y-axis POT connections on the stick. On the Y-axis it's..

GND
Y
AN+

Code: [Select]
  O      O
G         o  o
Y
+         o  o
  O      O
   + X G
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: czerstwy on August 02, 2016, 09:28:41 AM
I know that you are intrested about gamepad boards, but maybe you can help me.
Can you tell me anything about integrated circuits on Play & Charge board? I can't find anything about them (these short symbols...). I need especially info about circuits between 3V output and battery pins.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: nlh92 on August 03, 2016, 04:16:22 PM
Hi,

I want to use this controller wireless and power it without plugging in a USB cable. Where would I connect a 5v or 3.3v cable and ground to power it on?

Thank you!
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Da 59 fragger on December 19, 2016, 06:40:33 AM
Sorry if this has been asked before. But anyone know if at all possible to hardwire a usb headset, plantronics gamecom 780, to the stereo adapter? I've been searching for a while through the internet and can really find anything.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Modded Matt on December 19, 2016, 01:40:04 PM
no
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: joacmart on January 12, 2017, 04:02:56 AM
Hey. I did the remapping as per the tutorial... worked great until I decided to put in better buttons.. I soldered to d14 but the wire came off an took the point with it :cry2: is there a way to fix this, the b button doesn't work at all because of this...  :beg: help
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on January 12, 2017, 04:07:24 AM
If you've torn the pad off at D14, then the B trace is now open, so that's why it's dead. You'll need to prep and solder to the via that is to the right of where that pad was, then do the same on the left side at the B trace and then connect the two.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: FTA on January 29, 2017, 02:56:01 PM
Hi,
I have some question about making new terminals for using my controller with usb cable. The situation is as follows: The USB port started degrading and losing connection. Decided to replace it, but while removing the old one, destroyed the pictured traces and pads (see pic.). Now I want to solder 4 wire type A cable as shown on the diagram. I'm putting a bridge for the ground connection. Is there anything I'm missing? Is the wiring correct? Thanks.

(https://s23.postimg.org/hepsd6fbv/image.jpg)

P.S. Do I need to resolder the rumble motors, for controller to work?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on January 29, 2017, 03:50:53 PM
You have the pinout correct, but there is no real need for that Ground jumper wire.

The Rumble motors do not need to be wired up for the controller to work.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: FTA on January 30, 2017, 02:05:00 PM
Thanks for the answer, I just managed to solder the wires, with the bridge (it was prior your answer) . The drivers are installing, but with error code 37 "Windows cannot initialize the device driver for this hardware.", and the LED on the other side is not lit. I did reinstalled the driver several times, but still not properly starting. I had bad connection on D+, so will solder it better. And 2 more questions, should I remove the GND bridge, and what does the fourth trace on the micro USB pads? I read something about ID signal or something, or for OTG connection, do I need to do something about it?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on January 30, 2017, 04:42:08 PM
There's no point in removing the ground jumper if it's already installed.

The 4th pin is for the original USB cable's LED, explained in Reply #7 of this thread. Just leave it unconnected.

Without seeing the controller, I can only guess you have something shorted, not connected properly or there is more damage somewhere that needs repaired.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: FTA on January 31, 2017, 12:29:09 AM
There is nothing else modded, soldered or broken. If the problem persist, will make some photos of the PCB to discuss. Alright, thank you, RDC.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: FTA on February 06, 2017, 12:49:44 AM
Hi again, I did managed to solder the wires and the controller is recognised correctly, but the D+ is very unstable - the space is too small and the trace will rip off from the pcb. Can I solder the wire somwhere else on a bigger trace?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Wily91 on February 14, 2017, 12:43:19 PM
Hello. Anybody cand tell me the D23 and C6 and U1 value from the mainboard?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Wily91 on February 14, 2017, 01:05:34 PM
 Hello. I got my xbox one for 1 week. When I installed the batteries in the controller and started to set up the console I found that the battery door was getting warm to the touch. I immediately opened the door and took put the batteries which were so hot by this time I couldn’t hold them, after the light on the controller would blink twice and then shut off. I's a brand new xbox one s controller. I opened the controller and i found this problem. the controller work well but is overheating after 10 second and disconect.

http://imgur.com/a/I5hSQ I can't atach normal the picture.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on February 14, 2017, 03:08:46 PM
Sorry guys, didn't know there were replies on here.

@ FTA - The top of R2 and R3 there are D- and D+ respectively. USe a bit of hot glue to hold the wires on the PCB, but not right on top of the solder joint in case you ever need to rework it.

@ Wily91 - Replied to your PM about the board damage there.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: FTA on February 15, 2017, 07:55:32 AM
Hey RDC, thanks but, can I instead,solder longer wires to the 14-pin connector (J1), through 33 ohm resistors? If I'm correct, those two there are 33 ohm resistors. Also, you wrote in the fist post "data" is D+(#10) and D-(#12) and unless I'm wrong (probably I'am :) ), they should be #9(D-) and #10(D+) - am I numbering the connector pinout correctly, where the count starts and how it goes? And can I solder the +5v from the USB to pin #8 directly? Thank you again.

P.S. The upper leftmost pin should be GND, may be pin #13?

(https://s10.postimg.org/ai990nwi1/image.jpg)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: connormtully@gmail.com on February 15, 2017, 01:05:09 PM
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FzqBpS6s.jpg&hash=ad0aa75e3112c589b13969cb148a52e7d3a97464)

I swapped the analog stick modules on my Xbox One controller, was too aggressive with solder braid and accidentally removed the solder pad circled in red on this picture. How should I go about resolving this problem? Is there a place somewhere else on the controller I can wire the pin to?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on February 16, 2017, 05:34:58 AM
@ FTA - Pin 1 is marked (white dot) on the board, and the corner of the connector at pin 1 is also angled. So what you have marked as pin 7 is really pin 1 of the connector. Also, all of the odds are on one side, while the evens are on the other, so pin 14 in your diagram is really pin 2 there. Redo them that way, and you'll find the D+ and D- are on 10 and 12, like I have listed. ;)

Yes you can just solder directly to the connector thru some 33ohm Resistors.

The USB 5v goes thru R1 before hitting pin 8 of the connector, but you can skip that and just go directly to pin 8 if you need.


@ connormtully - That spot is the AN+ for the Y-Axis POT. You can solder a short jumper wire from the spot just to the left of the X spot to the lead of the POT under it and get the AN+ back to it.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: FTA on February 16, 2017, 10:14:29 AM
Thank you RDC :)

Cheers!!
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on February 16, 2017, 03:07:02 PM
Welcome.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: FTA on March 14, 2017, 04:03:27 PM
RDC, another issue here :)

I finished the previous repairs and in the meantime replaced the LB switch with one from an xbox360 pad, and maged to play for many hours. But, the swich, suddenly stuck on "pressed". I desoldered it, but unfotunately, this time, with the pads (Only the yellow survived). So my question is, which of those, on the image are the important contacts to solder the new switch to - just the lower two (marked with the U-shape)? What is the yellow connected to, or just holding the switch leg there? Thanks.

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2F1UHDXP9.jpg&hash=7cee058e9389579dce872001d7c435664b22a7de)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on March 14, 2017, 04:25:44 PM
The switch connections are the 2 on the right. The top Yellow circle is one (ground) and the bottom right green circle (connects to the pink trace for LB) is the other one. The 2 green ones on the left (both ground) are mainly mechanical for holding the switch in place.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: FTA on March 14, 2017, 06:56:00 PM
Once again, thank you, for the thorough explanation :) And something else, could there be a reason (beside damaged switch), for the circuit to be constantly closed for LB - just asking.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on March 14, 2017, 07:06:06 PM
There would have to be a short, or even thru some Resistance, to ground on that LB line somewhere, or the MCU is bad.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: FTA on March 14, 2017, 09:22:48 PM
Alright, thanks :)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Dante1475 on September 06, 2017, 08:48:05 PM
Hello everyone, I like to make a battery mod, but the 4 pin I don't know what are they functions, someone know that info?

These are the 4 pins I like to know they functions.

(https://ibb.co/eq0seF)

Sorry for my bad english.
(https://s26.postimg.org/onuzy2vc5/1537_BBB_2.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/onuzy2vc5/)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 08, 2017, 03:20:17 AM
Those 4 pins are for interfacing with the official battery pack, as it has active circuitry inside it, aka a 'smart' battery. If you plan to install your own rechargeable pack, then you will have to reverse engineer that interface and buying a new official pack would be a much better option there as that would be a mess of work and time.

If you want to make your own rechargeable pack, then I would just leave those 4 pins alone. All you need are the 2 main contacts that the AA batteries use, then recharge your custom pack externally.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Dante1475 on September 08, 2017, 11:31:31 PM
Those 4 pins are for interfacing with the official battery pack, as it has active circuitry inside it, aka a 'smart' battery. If you plan to install your own rechargeable pack, then you will have to reverse engineer that interface and buying a new official pack would be a much better option there as that would be a mess of work and time.

If you want to make your own rechargeable pack, then I would just leave those 4 pins alone. All you need are the 2 main contacts that the AA batteries use, then recharge your custom pack externally.

Ok, I guess is better buy a battery, all this began when my litio battery hace more mah than p&c lipo battery, but I follow your advice.

To bad I can take 5V for the charger module.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Christian87 on September 19, 2017, 07:14:25 AM
Hello everyone. Hope all is well. I believe I'm in the right place. I purchased an Arduino micro in hopes of making my Xbox one controller rapid fire. I can't afford any other alternative really. I have flashed the Arduino successfully with the source code. The video I watched on how to do it the guy was using a Xbox one s controller. Mine being the generation 2 controller the soldering points differ. I've tried to reach him numerous times but he hasn't responded. This is why I looked around the internet for help. I came across this post on the Xbox one controller boards an such. Thought you might be able to help me. The picture I'm attaching are the points I need to find in my controller, the other is just the points on the Arduino
(https://s26.postimg.org/a26416eud/Screenshot_2017-09-19-01-38-33.png) (https://postimg.org/image/a26416eud/)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: dreeandree77 on November 01, 2017, 01:10:09 PM
Hello,

Open burn XB1 Controller:

Please correct me if wrong.

U1 - MP2161GJ  ?

Q6 and Q7  - DMG3415U ?


D22, D23 - diodes i don't know? mark ( V1 )



Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: SparQzz on July 11, 2018, 08:14:44 AM
Hey guys, have a question for anyone still alive on here.  I added 2 back buttons to my controller rb and lb, ran the wires from the third pin in from joystick top row on j5 and 6. Ran independent grounds from to 21 and tp22.  Those buttons work fine.  All my other controls work fine.  Except for.... My A button.  It's now either Y or A and Y.  (I did try to install an arsenal mod chip without success I didn't have a tip small enough to do that.  So I went with direct wire route instead.). Any insight into this would be fantastic.  Thanks in advance!
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on July 11, 2018, 08:38:12 AM
@ dreeandree77 - Sorry I didn't see this any sooner. U1 is correct, Q6 and Q7 I crossed to SSM3J328R, but either of them should work. D22 and D23 just seem to be some typical Rectifier diode, 1N4001 or the like.


@ SparQzz - No idea what the issue is there as the explanation of it makes no sense. The A button doesn't seem to work, but it's not either Y or A and Y, what does this mean? If you have anything installed in there the first thing is to remove it and then see how the controller acts.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: SparQzz on July 11, 2018, 08:53:33 AM
@RDC it was meant to say "NOW" not "NOT".  The button is now registering as Y instead of A.  I didn't get the chip installed bc I couldn't get my tip down onto the pads well enough.  So it was never installed really.  Just melted the plastic on the connector a TINY bit.  I never touched any A or Y point at any time. 
(https://s33.postimg.cc/6u2gxvrfv/IMG_20180711_115152.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6u2gxvrfv/)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on July 11, 2018, 09:05:55 AM
All I can make out in that image there is that you have blurry pixels between all of the solder joints.

That's also a 1697 version board, not a 1537, same pinout on the connectors though.

Was the top board lifted or solder on at all?

So if..

Pressing A = Y

..then..

Pressing Y = ?

Pressing Y and A = ?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: drenon on July 18, 2018, 06:11:34 AM
So me and the housemate wee playing away on Skyrim last night when we started to run into some pad issues. The triggers seamed to be miss behaving and after a bit of basic trouble shooting we decided to call it a night and check in the morning. With no success on PC or on Xbox to get it working and hearing something rattling around inside we decided to strip it down.

Inside we found that a screw had broken free and got stuck on the magnet for the holofix sensor and when we went to attack or use that button it has caused some damage on the PCB itself. Using my 'decent' knowledge of electronics and troubleshooting I think I have narrowed the cause down and I am here now to ask for some advice.


Is it possible for anyone to provide me with the correct components to repair these with myself, or at least readings so I can get similar or possibly give me a hint if I am chasing a lost cause.

Thanks for your time!!
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on July 18, 2018, 06:40:15 AM
C38 and R42 make up the RC filter after the Hall sensor. While the Capacitor in that circuit isn't super critical, the Resistor is.

C38 = 470nF, 0402
R42 = 100ohm, 0402
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: saulveloz on September 04, 2018, 03:47:26 AM
Hey guys, so my A and Y button are pressed all the time, check the j1 j5 pinout and reflowed nothing, i'm kinda stuck
I don't know what else i can check with the multimeter or a bridge


(https://s15.postimg.cc/na780hehz/20180904_054100.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/na780hehz/)

(https://s15.postimg.cc/8sa0shn6v/20180904_054022.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/8sa0shn6v/)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 04, 2018, 09:37:22 AM
No power to the controller, then Ohm out the A and Y lines to ground and see what they measure, also do X and B for comparison.

If it's 1 ohm or less, there's a short somewhere for sure, but even a few k will still probably register as a button press. I've not tested the limits there, but there isn't much between the buttons and the MCU.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: 123XYZ123 on September 20, 2018, 01:47:22 AM
Hello guys,

Have a Xbox One controller which doesn't want to power up when connected to USB. When on batteries it blinks twice and goes off.

I disassembled it and when I connect the board to usb charger, U1 chip gets immediately hot, as does the D23 and then other components around it obviously. However, I think the D23 heats up first. At the beginning I think C6 is the cause, removed it but still the same.

The voltage ⚡ on U1 is as follows :

Pin 1- 0v
Pin 2- 0.67v
Pin 3- 0.36v
Pin 4- 0v
Pin 5- 0.36v
Pin 6- 0v
Pin 7- 0.08v
Pin 8- 1.08v

I saw what the right voltage looks like in this thread, this one definitely doesn't look right

Im a noob and don't know much, so what could I try. To remove the U1? How to test the diode on D23 if it's needed? Or might something else be the cause?

Checked the diode with continuity without taking it out, looks normal. Shows 1,when reversing shows about 220.

Thanks in advance :)

https://ibb.co/dbe04z
https://ibb.co/k9awcK
https://ibb.co/eHjpxK
https://ibb.co/kaPBBe
https://ibb.co/gYcbcK
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 20, 2018, 02:12:16 AM
U1 is toasted and needs replaced to start with, it's an MP2161. While it is off the board, you can check D23 with any half decent DMM (Digital MultiMeter) as it will have a Diode test feature.

You'll need to be a bit more careful when removing U1 versus if it were fine, as I can tell the thing has already been far too hot and started to burn the board as well as toast the solder joints, which can practically weld them to the pads and then the pads and sometimes traces just all end up coming off with the component. So that could go from a fairly easy repair (replacing only U1) to a real pain to repair (replacing U1 and doing a lot of trace repairs to reconnect everything) to just being a parts board pretty quick.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: 123XYZ123 on September 20, 2018, 02:24:29 AM
https://ibb.co/gVXCjz

Thanks for the fast response.
This is the only multimeter I have. I tested the diode with continuity, shows 1 in one direction and about 220 in another, without removing it from the board. Can I call that a test?  :dntknw:

What's your suggestion for removing the U1, should I use hot air or soldering iron? Also, assuming the U1 is the only faulty component, when removed which voltage should I have on U2 and U3?

Thanks  :yess:
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 20, 2018, 02:30:43 AM
That meter is fine, as long as you get a different reading both ways is should be alright.

You could use either method for removing it, though you'll want to try and heat every lead at the same time for the best results, so with the hot air that's easier. I'd also flux the leads of that thing up to help soften that roasted solder. If you don't have any flux, then get the iron and flow some new solder onto the leads as the flux that's in it will be better than nothing.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: 123XYZ123 on September 20, 2018, 02:41:11 AM
I do have flux.
Just, is there a way to be sure only the U1 is faulty without a new one in the board? I can't get a new one for at least 30 days, because the shipment is slow and I doubt that I can find one in my country.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 20, 2018, 02:46:19 AM
All U1 really does is charge the PnC battery pack and knock the USB 5v down for U2 and U3, so it should still work off of batteries with U1 removed.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: 123XYZ123 on September 20, 2018, 03:30:17 AM
Ok I will remove it and see. Do I have to put back the C6?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 20, 2018, 03:32:45 AM
Nope.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: 123XYZ123 on September 20, 2018, 10:33:51 AM
I took it out, it looks really bad, the chip and the board, don't think I could solder a new one there. Anyway, now the joystick does blink more often when batteries are in and when I hold the wireless button it does start to blink faster. Unfortunately I do not have a xbox console, the joystick is from a friend. Is there a way to test is without the console? I turned it on and connected to USB to the laptop and it did find it, until it went of after a while, like it cant find a connection and goes off. I tried to find it with laptops Bluetooth but it didn't see it, also tried with the Bluetooth of my phone and PS4.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 20, 2018, 11:23:05 AM
If it loses USB connection or the USB is unplugged, the controller will blink as it's trying to then connect over wireless and after 35 seconds or so that times out and it shuts off.

Plug in the USB cable to the controller, then into the PC, and then press the Guide button to turn the controller on. It should turn on, solid light, and the PC should detect it and it should stay on. If it does not act that way, then the controller most likely has some other issues, as I have one sitting here now connected over USB that I just removed U1 from and it's working, albeit with batteries over USB, but it's working.

Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: 123XYZ123 on September 20, 2018, 11:52:05 AM
It works  :tup:
Thanks a lot   :hifive:
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 20, 2018, 08:34:34 PM
Welcome.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: rafaliyo86 on September 21, 2018, 06:46:05 AM
Hi guys

Long time I don’t post in the forum. I have bought a faulty (without knowing it) xbox one controller. It has drift problem in the right stick.

I have seen some ways to “fix” this problem like: clean the stick, replace the pot or replace the stick

I tried using a contact cleaner in the stick and it worked for a few minutes but after that it failed again.

So I suppose it would be better to replace the stick or replacing the pot would be enough?

I ask this because I have seen you can replace the pot without using the soldering iron (this would be easier)

Model is 1708, thanks in advance
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 21, 2018, 09:30:52 AM
You are not replacing the POT without a soldering iron, unless you used a hot air setup, and then you're just splitting hairs there. Even if it is replaced, that's no guarantee that it will stop drifting. Those things are calibrated after they are put together, so even if you took a 100% brand new and perfectly working controller and installed a different brand new stick in there, odds are it would drift or at least be off some versus the original one that was in there before.

You can try swapping sticks, but all you'll be doing there is causing an issue on the other Axis of the stick and having two problems instead of just one. 

The only way to 'easily' correct it is to adjust the POT on the stick housing, and you will need a soldering iron and X-actlo knife for that.

Desolder the 3 POT leads from the board.
Unclip the POT from the stick frame.
Cut the 2 posts in the corners of the POT, do not cut the clips on the sides as they are what hold the POT onto the frame.
Clip the POT back onto the frame.
Now that those posts are cut off, there will be some adjustment room in the POT before you solder it back in place.
Adjust it in the direction that it was drifting, that is if it was drifting to the Right, then turn the POT just a little bit to the Right, then solder it back in place and test.
You may need to do the last couple of steps a few times, so take it easy with the soldering iron so the pads don't get damaged.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: rafaliyo86 on September 24, 2018, 05:15:27 AM
First of all thanks for the reply RDC

Soldering is not a “problem” actually but it is better if I dont have to do it XD.

These are the parts you mean ?(to cut off):


(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthumbs.subefotos.com%2F302585b86cc21114229d7dcacf35a167o.jpg&hash=0e0be33087b04bd3835524fa1333ba41bf479efb) (http://subefotos.com/ver/?302585b86cc21114229d7dcacf35a167o.jpg)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 24, 2018, 06:29:18 AM
The posts that need cut off are on the other side of the POT and in 3 of the 4 corners.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: rafaliyo86 on September 24, 2018, 06:51:39 AM
Ok these ones then: (sorry to ask again and again but thw word “posts” in my language have no sense in this context)

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fthumbs.subefotos.com%2F70df67d05df47c4fb07cb562481d4764o.jpg&hash=148d1f359bc8b18f687f01f3b8d78c3cb731c1b8) (http://subefotos.com/ver/?70df67d05df47c4fb07cb562481d4764o.jpg)

Once I remove them I could “adjust” a bit the POT then. Do you recommend me to try first replacing the whole POT or do what you say directly?

I have seen many videos on youtube and this one is the closet what you mean I think

https://youtu.be/ywYuTheUUss (https://youtu.be/ywYuTheUUss)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 24, 2018, 07:17:47 AM
Yes those are the posts.

That video is not how I correct the drifting. All that is doing is bending the internals of the stick mechanism. You can use either method, it all does the same thing in the end really.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: figo1818 on September 27, 2018, 12:56:18 PM
Apologies I know this is off topic question but I recently damaged the C21 and C25 capacitor from the right axis stick, can somebody let me know the values or reading of these two capacitors so I can buy them and therefore solder into the PCB?

Thank you very much!!!
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 27, 2018, 02:31:00 PM
Both are just for decoupling and you'll never notice they are missing.

C21 - 1uF (1000nf)
C25 - 0.01uF (10nF)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: figo1818 on September 28, 2018, 02:42:17 AM
Thank you very much for you prompt reply!, I thought those capacitors helped to someone calibrate the axis module... see attached pictures


(https://i.postimg.cc/fVVdGKMQ/20180926_163415.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fVVdGKMQ)

(https://i.postimg.cc/0zhSPwNM/20180926_163523.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zhSPwNM)


As you can see there is a noticeable difference between the right and left axis (the left is the original one) it is like the right axis is sightly to the left and up, to be honest the control during game works perfectly fine.

Here is the module I used:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3D-Controller-Joystick-Axis-Analog-Sensor-Module-Replacement-for-Xbox-One-1/291628285291?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3D-Controller-Joystick-Axis-Analog-Sensor-Module-Replacement-for-Xbox-One-1/291628285291?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)

I will place these two capacitors and see what happens, I will keep you guys updated.





Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 28, 2018, 03:07:40 AM
Replacing the Caps will do nothing for calibration, they are just for decoupling. Every controller is calibrated after it's built to the sticks that it was made with, and when you change sticks, or even remove the same one and reinstall it, then it's going to be off a little bit. If it's not drifting in any games then consider yourself lucky, but with it being off that much I'm sure you'll run across a game sooner or later that will be more picky about it.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: figo1818 on September 28, 2018, 03:37:13 AM
well in that case I would not be changing the capacitors, is there any way to calibrate the controller?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 28, 2018, 03:48:04 AM
Not that I'm aware of, but M$ should implement it in some controller/dashboard update, as this was something you could do on the N64 controller over 2 decades ago. If you want to get it nearer to the original values, then you have to modify the POT on the stick and try to get closer to that calibrated center value manually, as mentioned a few posts above.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: rafaliyo86 on October 12, 2018, 01:41:31 AM
Hi

I have been trying to log in a few days and I have gotten today

RDC, I fixed the controller just replacing the pot, lucky me  :drunk:

Thanks for the help
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: case on January 10, 2019, 03:12:03 AM
Hiii, i just want to say thanx to RDC. :)

With the help of your scans i was able to build a nice keyboard with a build in controller for combos on the number pad. i only had  trouble to power up the board with the connection from J2 so i soldered directly to the power button on the power board.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RJSLgvPZ/P-20190109-213501.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RJSLgvPZ)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on January 10, 2019, 04:29:10 AM
@ rafaliyo86 - Welcome.

@ case - Welcome, glad it helped out.

What issue did you have with J2 though? If you were wiring up your new Guide button directly to the J2 connector, pin 6, that will cause an issue because the Guide button goes thru a Diode before it gets to that pin. So if you were to wire Guide directly to J2 it wouldn't work correctly without putting a Diode in there first, but wired to the actual Guide button contact it would.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: case on January 10, 2019, 07:17:25 AM
no issue really, i just thought i could power up the controller with J2/p6 but it only activates the guide function. Now you tell me there is a diode between the button on the power board and j2 i understand why i had to solder my power-on-button to the button on the power board. I didn't solder any of the connections to j2 or j1, i used thin one wired IDE cable, they are thin enough to just stick in J5 & J6 and then press the boards together. I haven't been soldering since nearly 25 years, so, better save than sorry. :) For soldering the B-button, ground and the needed TP7 for power i used a usb powered soldering needle, great for pcb, i only grilled the pads from the smd LED. LoL :)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on January 10, 2019, 07:37:17 AM
Gotcha. Yeah that Diode in there will not let the controller power up from pressing it wired that way, because Guide will then be on the Anode side of D27 in there, so when pressing it the Guide button will work, but it will block that ground signal from when you press the Guide button to make the controller turn on. So that Guide button needs to be on the other side of D27 to get the thing to fire up.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Jarhead on March 06, 2019, 03:29:34 PM
Hello there, I need the value for the R44 resistor. Can anyone help me?


Another question: I replaced a stick and noticed, that I can run it without drifting, BUT a small radius around the middle position is "numb". I can move the stick a bit and it would not register.
The stick I received differs a little bit from the one that i desoldered. Mainly noticeble on the bottom of the stick. Are there minor differences in stick versions and do they matter performance wise?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on March 06, 2019, 03:47:46 PM
R44 is 33k

That 'new' stick sounds a bit knackered to me. Technically they're all the same, 10k POTs and mechanically not much different, but some are just better than others based on the luck of the draw. The original ones are made by ALPS, and that should be stamped into the metal on it, if it's not then it's for sure some 3rd party crap one. They also have a grey base while the DS4 ones have a blue base. It's usually best to get them from a board that was scrapped for parts, so they're at least unused but the correct sticks. Barring that method, getting a couple of those things when replacing them is usually best in case you get one that acts a bit off after installing it.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Jarhead on March 06, 2019, 07:49:45 PM
Thank you very much, fortunately I was abled to find that tiny resistor after moving on the floor equipped with a flashlight. Only took me 2 hours of exausting frustration...

The ones I got are also ALPS, but the stamp on the side is not 34 xx but 33 xx. And the bottom side looks like it has been done with another mold.

My issue is, that the output value does not move in small movements, but then skyrockets up to 1 and -1 even tho the stick can still be moved a bit.
So basically from 0 - 100% tilt it starts to show a value great er than 0 at about 20% and reaches full output at maybe 80%.

After I switched the positions of the replacement and the remaining original stick, the issue moved with the replacement stick. I bought a pack of 2 an both do this weird nonsense.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on March 07, 2019, 03:02:48 AM
You can try putting the POTs from your old original stick onto the new one. They just clip onto the sides, unless that's the part that was worn out on them. Usually the mechanical parts of the stick just get all ground up and they fail that way, but I've seen the POTs disintegrate as well, so might only be a 50/50 shot there.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: maiojm on March 14, 2019, 11:06:39 PM
Hello!

So I've recently decided to start repairing xbox one controllers and stumbled upon your post. So i was trying to put a new LED on the circuit board and got it to light up but now my d-pad an triggers are malfunctioning. Is it possible that something I did near the micro USB connection site could affect these things?

I looked at the traces and it seems like the pad underneath the home button is somehow attached to the joystick board (I'm guessing this is where my triggers and d-pad are messing up).

If you could offer any insight on this matter, it would be greatly appreciated.


P.S. My controller model is a 1697. Does this make a difference?


Thanks,
Jonathan
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on March 15, 2019, 01:44:38 AM
Well none of that makes much sense. The LED is not near anything critical. The Triggers have nothing at all to do with the top board, and the D-pad traces are nowhere near the LED as all they do is run to the J1 connector and then the bottom MCU board that does all of the work.

If that controller for sure worked before messing with it, then the first thing to do is undo what you've already done and see if things get better.

The 1537 and 1697 top boards are pretty much the same, the 1697 just doesn't have the IR LEDs on it, so if you have a 1537 you can plug it on there and test how the Triggers and D-pad act with an untouched board to see which board really has the issue, because either that MCU board is screwy, or you've managed to short/break something that I haven't seen yet on the Button/Power board that's making it act that way.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ZhenyaKa on April 25, 2019, 01:52:12 PM
Can anybody help me to identify and order U10, U11 part?

My left is broken and need to replace.

How to order it somewhere, for ex. on Aliexpress?

Live one have 304 number on sot-23 body.

I know that Hall sensor, but can't find it.

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fipic.su%2Fimg%2Fimg7%2Ffs%2Fkiss_1108kb.1556227209.png&hash=c51cf9397dcee56487ffe7048abfdf47f72a0344)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ZhenyaKa on April 25, 2019, 04:48:38 PM
https://cdn.datasheetspdf.com/pdf-down/A/1/3/A1304-Allegro.pdf (https://cdn.datasheetspdf.com/pdf-down/A/1/3/A1304-Allegro.pdf)

Maybe this one

http://ecworld.ru/support/sdd/30.htm (http://ecworld.ru/support/sdd/30.htm)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 26, 2019, 10:59:39 AM
They are A1304ELHLX-T, package is the SOT-23W

Digikey has them - https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/allegro-microsystems-llc/A1304ELHLX-T/620-1548-1-ND/4552949 (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/allegro-microsystems-llc/A1304ELHLX-T/620-1548-1-ND/4552949)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ZhenyaKa on April 28, 2019, 12:54:08 PM
Thanks you a lot RDC!
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ajp8868 on July 03, 2019, 03:32:21 AM
Hi All, Sorry for replying to an old thread but it seems to be relevant to my issues. I'm hoping someone could help me identify an issue with my left thumbstick which seems to constantly be on full left all the time after replacing the POT modules. When the controller is on but with the pots removed, it's the opposite (so as if I was pushing full right). My guess on this is that the resistance is too low when the module is in place, signifying a full left push but I've tried putting the originals back in and they are showing the same symptoms.

After studying the images on this I was going to first check the 1.8v line from the u8 regulator to make sure this is working and possibly measure the voltage changing on the signal pin, but from then on I'm not sure.

What do you think I should check first?

Thanks!
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on July 03, 2019, 04:28:52 AM
If U8 had an issue then all 4 axis of both sticks would have a problem.

Since the problem occurred after replacing the POT, I'd say you have a broken trace, most likely at the 1.8v line of that POT. Installing the POT would let the ground side connect to the Wiper (center lead, axis) and with no 1.8v connected to the other side, it would just peg full left, no matter how much the stick was moved. With the POT removed, the Wiper line floats and the axis could go anywhere.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ajp8868 on July 03, 2019, 04:50:41 AM
Thanks for your quick reply!

The left stick does have a strange problem with up/down as well, where it will act as though it's repeatedly being pushed in whichever direction it's pushed (it's basically super sensitive. Could this also be related to U8?

So the first thing to do would definitely be check the 1.8v then.

I'll report back tonight, hoping this could be an easy fix!
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on July 03, 2019, 05:25:19 AM
If U8 had an issue then you'd have problems with the other stick as well. Some pics of the board might help.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ajp8868 on July 03, 2019, 05:50:28 AM
I'll see if I can take some usable images later.

Thanks for your help so far.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ajp8868 on July 03, 2019, 04:32:28 PM
I couldn't see anything visibly damaged at all on the board, and couldn't find out why the voltage wasn't reaching that POT, even though it was reaching the other.

I've bridged the pin between the 1.8v on the y axis POT to the pin on the x axis POT, which has fixed the issue! However, do you think this is a good/safe way to do it? it's well insulated so won't cause a short if it moves.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on July 03, 2019, 06:59:05 PM
It's perfectly fine to do it that way. The trace is most likely broken right at the solder pad for that lead.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ajp8868 on July 04, 2019, 01:29:38 AM
Brilliant, thanks for your help. That might have been the fault with it all along, it may not have even been the joystick module at fault.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ilie321 on July 08, 2019, 03:20:53 AM
hi all; i have a controller that is similar to this one but the pinout of those 2 connectors between boards are different ; on pcb it says x860641-012  not 010 as on here; my problem  is :it has  3.3v 3v etc and all powers seams to work but no sign of life from it; when i press the power button led do nothing ; the led is tested and works also the power button works and has voltage on it if not pressed; measured everything i could and seams ok  and no visual things to suspect; any idea ; can it be the main chip? the pc see the controller on usb but fails to install driver with code 10 no matter what i do (manually install etc)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on July 08, 2019, 12:41:07 PM
If the pinout of those connectors is different, then a schematic of this board is not going to be of any help to you. I havne't seen any that are that different so far, besides the 1708 which only has 1 connector on it, so not really sure what version you have there if that's actually the case. The sticker in the battery compartment will have the Model number on it.

First thing you need to do is get another controller of the same version and find out which board has the issue.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ilie321 on July 08, 2019, 09:05:47 PM
thank you i will look at that sticker when i go home but i don't have another controller to compare :(
i measured on the board with the usb the connectors maybe this is why they are different?



ok it says 1537 on label  and after i look better at first post i notice that you count the pins first up second down not on row as i expected so now is perfect correspondence
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on July 09, 2019, 01:50:14 PM
Measurements taken with the controller connected via USB, no battery pack installed.

Power OK (J1/J5, pin 11) will measure 3.3v, but only if the controller is working. It is also the Shutdown line, and 0v on it turns the controller off. That voltage comes from the MCU pin 83.

The Guide button line (J2/J6, pin 6) measures 2.5v unpressed, 0.5v pressed, again on a good controller.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ilie321 on July 09, 2019, 08:14:49 PM
I don't have the 2.5V on that pin 6 (= with tp16) there is only 0.7v.  Tp9=3.3v. On the other side of the diode I have around 1.5v with button not pressed. 3.3v on power ok is good. So i think this 2.5V come from mcu which is dead or a software issue ; i bought this controller from a guy so i don't know if it was an update issue ; when i connect it to pc it see it but cant install driver error code 10 on win7 64 (i tried also manual install ) ; i will make an hdd with win10 to see if any difference but i doubt ; thank you for the infos
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on July 10, 2019, 01:31:10 AM
TP9 is not the same as Power OK, that just means that U1 and U3 are working, you would have that voltage on TP9 if just the top board alone was plugged up to USB with no MCU board connected at all.

Yes the 2.5v (TP16) comes from the MCU pin 97.

Other side of which diode?

The 1537, 1697 and 1698 are all pretty much the same, so if you run across any of those controllers you could swap boards around to see which one has the issue.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ilie321 on July 10, 2019, 02:47:19 AM
yes power ok and tp9  are different ; diode D27; i will try to get some other controller in few days
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Gegas2231 on July 10, 2019, 05:16:07 PM
Hey everybody. I am new to modding controllers and I was trying to repair my bumper actually, so I open my controller and find out that the tactile button was damaged. I order a replacement online, desolder old one and installed the new one, the problem is that I screwed up, and melt down the metallic contact in the base of the RB pin, so is not making contact and RB is still not working.

I have 2 questions: I do not understand what Test Points are, what I mean is, should I throw a cable from the pin that is not making contact to the TP in order to fix it? or how do TP works?

And the second question is if I can make contact somewhere closer than the TP, because I would prefer not to unmount the MCU.

Or maybe anyone has an idea of a dix I could do.


Thanks
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on July 10, 2019, 05:52:36 PM
Test Points are points where you can test something. It's just a spot along the trace where it can be probed to see what is going on, otherwise you would need to scrape the masking (the green coating) off of there to expose the copper trace underneath it to solder to or check it with a meter, scope or whatever. They are also useful for attaching wires to for doing repairs or adding duplicate buttons.

Without seeing the damage I can't recommend the best way to repair it. There is no TP spot for RB, so you're not going to repair it with that method. There are 4 connections the RB makes to the board, 2 are just for mechanical purposes, then there is a ground and RB connection, the Purple trace in the pics of this thread. If the RB connection is the one you have damaged, just run a short jumper wire from the lead of the RB Tact switch and follow the trace to D3. It's only 5mm or so away from that spot, solder it there and unless something else is messed up, RB should work.

Or maybe anyone has an idea of a dix I could do.

Sorry, can't recommend any dix for you, this is AcidMods, not AcidRods. ;)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Gegas2231 on July 11, 2019, 04:19:32 PM
Thanks RDC. Actually what you said is super helpful, so I could run a wire to D3 which I assume is a diode am I right?

Also, to reveal the race of cooper I should scrap the green part, like the circuit board? because I was scrapping the shinny part instead.


Thanks again for your comment, it was really helpful, If I run into more issues I'll post a pic and ask for more help.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on July 11, 2019, 04:57:44 PM
The D3 marking is for a Diode, but it's a Capacitor in that location, neither of which matter.

You do not need to scrape anything anywhere to repair that. Likewise you don't need to scrape where solder already is, like the RB spot. The bottom side of D3 already has solder there where that component is attached to the board. Just solder the wire to to bottom side of D3, then to the RB lead.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Mizuho on July 29, 2019, 04:58:17 PM
Does anybody know what sort of chip U9 is?  I've got a controller here with the triggers permanently activated and I don't seem to be getting any voltage through from u9 to the hall sensors.  I found another thread that mentioned you should measure it with an oscilloscope, which I kinda did with an arduino, but it's measuring 650 constantly, whereas another board I have, which is also broken was at least giving me 0.11v and a little spike every presumably 125ms.  It did the same, since it's also an rt/lt issue, but there was a difference.  So I'm pretty sure it's the U9, but I can't figure out what it is/where to get one.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on July 29, 2019, 06:49:42 PM
U9 is just a 3.3v LDO in the 4-X2SON package. The TLV70733DQNR for example should work fine in there.

Pin 1 = OUT, ~1.2v measured with a DMM
Pin 2 = GND, Ground
Pin 3 = EN, Enable, pulses come from U1 pin 6 thru R38, 0ohm.
Pin 4 = IN, 3.3v

It has an exposed pad, so it will take a hot air setup and a little heat to do that rework.

Issue could be U9 is dead or the pulses are not coming from U1. I'd swap the U9 from your other board and retest.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: case on September 18, 2019, 11:48:30 AM
Good evening :)
My Frankenstein KB-Controller is getting an update and i'm in trouble.
The old version was powered by 2 AA, all nice and shiny.
In my last project i killed the led from the guide button and put in a new powered via TP7, all fine.

The new version will be powered by a 5V power bank via the usb and here my trouble starts.
Now when i power the board "wired" TP7  is on constant power!

Am i forced to use the solderpoints from the guidebutton led i grilled with a new low powered smd or is there a solderpoint where i can get 3.5V for a classic lep that also shuts off when i power off the controller?


The guidebutton solderpoints are only 0.8V and 6mA, so no chance for classic led here.

Ideas and tips are very welcome :)

Thanx in advance :)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: cupanoodle on October 16, 2019, 01:34:56 AM
I made this account just to say thank you @RDC! My right rumble motor is alive thanks to you.

Story:
My A key was sticking, I couldn't have that so I took it apart and cleaned the whole thing. During the reassembly I tore off the solder pad for RUMBLE MOTOR+ on the right side. I tried TP7, but the motor was stuck on, so I read through some advice on this thread and ended up scraping away enamel on the trace adjacent to the missing pad. Was able to solder the motor on to that trace.

Pictures:
https://imgur.com/a/Pe7Nmfy (https://imgur.com/a/Pe7Nmfy)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on October 16, 2019, 04:47:37 PM
Welcome.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ZhenyaKa on October 17, 2019, 06:34:24 AM
They are A1304ELHLK-T, package is the SOT-23W

Digikey has them - https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/allegro-microsystems-llc/A1304ELHLX-T/620-1548-1-ND/4552949 (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/allegro-microsystems-llc/A1304ELHLX-T/620-1548-1-ND/4552949)

Hi again. You gave me link to 3V ~ 3.6V Hall sensor.

But when I measure supply power of it (on two gamepads) I got 1.4V

Is it yor link correct?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on October 17, 2019, 08:04:16 AM
Nope, I just make all this up as I go. ;)

The Hall sensors do not have a constant power rail, it is turned on/off 125 times a second via U9, so a DMM will not measure the voltage correctly. You need to put a scope on there if you want to see what it is really doing.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ZhenyaKa on October 17, 2019, 08:18:35 AM
Nope, I just make all this up as I go. ;)

The Hall sensors do not have a constant power rail, it is turned on/off 125 times a second via U9, so a DMM will not measure the voltage correctly. You need to put a scope on there if you want to see what it is really doing.

Ah! Thats clear now! Meander or sin there


I have one halfdead body now. Both trigger hasn't any respond. But voltages is okay. And signal lines to CPU is okay too.
When I bring close magnet signal output of sensor show 0. There are no any changes.
I resolder sensor to other PCB and it is okay.
Maybe generator is dead?

I checked them with multimeter only.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on October 17, 2019, 08:26:55 AM
If there is voltage in and the Hall sensor is good then there should be voltage out.

VCC = ~1v measured with a DMM
OUT = ~0.11v measured with a DMM

The more you pull the trigger the lower the output goes. Not pulled measures around 0.11v, full pull measures ~0.01v
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ZhenyaKa on October 17, 2019, 09:21:41 AM
If there is voltage in and the Hall sensor is good then there should be voltage out.

VCC = ~1v measured with a DMM
OUT = ~0.11v measured with a DMM

The more you pull the trigger the lower the output goes. Not pulled measures around 0.11v, full pull measures ~0.01v
Heating with hotgun U9 region helped me.
Got good meandr at U9 leg and near Hall Sensor!

Before at leg was good, but near Sensor was very poor, decreased signal

Thanks you a lot RDC for your fast response!
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on October 17, 2019, 11:13:53 AM
Welcome.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: al3cs on November 09, 2019, 04:41:26 AM
Hello guys.

I have an old controller that I bought a few years ago and didn't work. And since then I have got another one.
Now I've started to want to fix the old one that doesn't power on, not on batteries or usb cable.

I have tried to swap the boards between them, and on the old one the power board works with the mcu board from the new one, so I ended up thinking the old controller mcu board has something wrong since it didn't work with the power board from the new controller.
Can you please help me on guiding me on identifying what could be the problem.

Thank you.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ZhenyaKa on November 09, 2019, 05:03:23 AM
Hello guys.

I have an old controller that I bought a few years ago and didn't work. And since then I have got another one.
Now I've started to want to fix the old one that doesn't power on, not on batteries or usb cable.

I have tried to swap the boards between them, and on the old one the power board works with the mcu board from the new one, so I ended up thinking the old controller mcu board has something wrong since it didn't work with the power board from the new controller.
Can you please help me on guiding me on identifying what could be the problem.

Thank you.

Check fuse with multimeter on power board
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on November 09, 2019, 05:28:42 AM
@ZhenyaKa - There is no fuse on either of those boards.


@al3cs - First thing to check for on the bad MCU board would be to see if the 3.3v rail is shorted or not. A working controller will measure in the Megs when checking Resistance from the 3.3v to Ground and change as the caps on the board charge up. A really low fixed value would indicate an issue. Check for Resistance with the board unconnected from everything, no Power board connected.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ZhenyaKa on November 09, 2019, 05:39:30 AM
@ZhenyaKa - There is no fuse on either of those boards.
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fipic.su%2Fimg%2Fimg7%2Ffs%2Fkiss_321kb.1573306631.png&hash=af3e328e24407eb018c03ac97a21f6c7071165bb)


As I remeber one time I have breaked this element. Adding wire did fix problem.


But cheaper to buy this pcb and ribbons too than to try to fix them.

But there are all different for jdm-001, jdm-030... etc
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on November 09, 2019, 05:42:41 AM
This is the XB1 1537 controller thread, it has no fuses, or DS4 boards in it, at all. ;)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ZhenyaKa on November 09, 2019, 05:46:37 AM
This is the XB1 1537 controller thread, it has no fuses, or DS4 boards in it, at all. ;)

Oh! My silly head!!!

I'm not wake up yet!

Sorry!
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on November 09, 2019, 05:49:26 AM
No worries at all, it happens.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: al3cs on November 09, 2019, 10:07:25 PM
Thank you @RDC. I will try and let you know.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: al3cs on November 09, 2019, 10:48:12 PM
I have checked the values on the J6 connector and between pin 1 and pin 3 a have 4.5 megs and between pin 4 and pin 3 i get 6 megs, but a fixed value. But between test point 24 and 25 I get 10 K:(
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on November 10, 2019, 03:31:06 AM
TP25 is a pin off the MCU, it's not on the 3.3v rail, so that 10k you measure there is correct.

That measurement between pins 1 and 3 should be 55k, check that R43, R44 and C39 are still on the board or that there is no damage to that area. They are on the bottom side of the board under the Right Stick.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: al3cs on November 10, 2019, 07:25:23 AM
The resistance between pin 1 and pin 3 is around 88 k, but it is not stable, it starts from 84 and goes to 88, where is starts to stop:(
The area of the resistances looks ok, but i will touch it up tomorrow . Thank you for the help.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: nedmohm on November 15, 2019, 05:18:36 AM
Hello Mr RDC Greeting from me

i have problem with my old xbox one controller, i tried to replace the right analog but i've messed up and lose the soldering place and 1 transistor , please look at the picture that  i attached and i circled the the problem, and now the right analog is in the right place but the left and right direction is not working at all, can you help me find the place that i need to jumper or connect please ?
thank you
(https://i.postimg.cc/zvwxzPPt/Mother-Board.png)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on November 15, 2019, 06:51:53 AM
C21 is just a Capacitor. You can leave it off the board and it will be fine with it missing.

Solder a small jumper wire as shown and it will restore the AN+ to the stick and you should be good to go.

(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Repair/1537_nedmohm.jpg)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: nedmohm on November 16, 2019, 08:35:14 PM
C21 is just a Capacitor. You can leave it off the board and it will be fine with it missing.

Solder a small jumper wire as shown and it will restore the AN+ to the stick and you should be good to go.
Really appreciate your help mr. It really work like a charm, thank you for your help
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on November 16, 2019, 08:43:15 PM
Welcome.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: jvcr on December 13, 2019, 03:55:02 AM


Another thing you might try is to unplug the Power board from the MCU board and plug up the USB cable to it. It's not a very conclusive test, but if U1, U2 or U3 gets hot then, then you for sure have an issue on the Power board there as with it unplugged from the MCU board none of it should be working except U1, and it would only be lukewarm at best.



You are not right. When the "power board" is disconnected from the "MCU board" U2 and U3 continue to generate ~ 3V when the USB is connected to U1.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on December 13, 2019, 09:08:19 AM
Where does it say in that post that U2 and U3 will generate no output? It doesn't. Working in that statement there means, oddly enough, doing work, aka has a load on it. Only U1 'works' with the boards unplugged as it powers U2 and U3, which oddly enough is also says in that post before the statement you consider to be incorrect. So yes they will be 'on' and U2 will have 3.5v out and U3 will have 3.3v out, but they are not doing any work. I never said they were turned off and in fact stated that U1 provides the rail for U2 and U3, so if U1 is on clearly U2 and U3 should be as well, but they are still doing no actual work, but yes they are on.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: jvcr on December 16, 2019, 03:39:40 AM
Problem: the left analog stick pulls up and down (maybe in other directions) (Fig. 1). Dismantled the left stick (Fig. 2), the problem has not been fixed. When a conductive object (screwdriver, tweezers) touches the capacitors C24, C20 or C22 (Fig. 3), the position of the stick changes (later I removed these capacitors, the problem did not disappear). Accordingly, I assume that there is electromagnetic interference. Any ideas what to do? TP63 and TP64 track directly to the processor MCU, it is difficult to analyze. Thanks for replying to the previous post.
Fig.1:(https://thumb.cloud.mail.ru/weblink/thumb/xw1/51kh/QtU7PCxPG/fig.1.jpg)
Fig.2:(https://thumb.cloud.mail.ru/weblink/thumb/xw1/5Hbt/54yrm6x5g/fig.2.jpg)
Fig.3:(https://thumb.cloud.mail.ru/weblink/thumb/xw1/4ejt/mw4rvWoYe/fig.3.jpg)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: jvcr on December 16, 2019, 05:31:18 AM
Ah! Thats clear now! Meander or sin there


I have one halfdead body now. Both trigger hasn't any respond. But voltages is okay. And signal lines to CPU is okay too.
When I bring close magnet signal output of sensor show 0. There are no any changes.
I resolder sensor to other PCB and it is okay.
Maybe generator is dead?

I checked them with multimeter only.

When the Hall sensor (U11) did not react, but at the same time the voltage was correctly formed on the Vout pin, I discovered a break between the Vout pin and the R42 resistor. I soldered the wire and it worked.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on December 16, 2019, 12:22:18 PM
The sticks are voltage dividers, so they need to be installed and everything connected or the Axis lines will 'float' and behave erratically.

Reinstall a Stick and make sure things are all connected, couple of pads are torn up in there, then check the voltage on the leads of the POT to see if it's working.

1.8v | 0.9v | GND

The 0.9v is the Stick at center voltage and is the ideal voltage, it never will be exactly 0.9v but it should be close and change smoothly when you move the Stick around.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: jvcr on December 20, 2019, 04:42:15 AM
I physically connected the leads of the potentiometer (new) with a wire to supply voltage and ground (left-right axis). Got better. The stick works properly in all directions. But when you press on the corner of the board axis "right-left" "float". At the same time, I measured the voltage on all legs of the potentiometer, it remains static: 1.8 | 0.9 | gnd.
Sometimes this manifests itself when you press the metal cover of the MCU.
ps before soldering wires, pressing the stick did not work either. After that, everything worked.
What are some ideas? thanks

https://youtu.be/mhsLliIlx9c (https://youtu.be/mhsLliIlx9c)

(https://thumb.cloud.mail.ru/weblink/thumb/xw1/3x8m/4HWC9pQLG/20191220_160317.jpg?x-email=jvcr%40mail.ru)

(https://thumb.cloud.mail.ru/weblink/thumb/xw1/3TKQ/45nGsYsXe/Analog%20Stick%20Scheme.jpg)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on December 20, 2019, 05:14:00 AM
It looks more like it's going full right when pressed versus floating, which could mean the Ground is going open to the POT or the 1.8v is shorting to the center lead.

If the voltage on the POT does not change when pressing on the board and it acts up, then the PCB or a trace could have a crack, or a solder joint on the MCU or anywhere in that line. Putting that physical stress on the board, even a via could be causing it.

Best idea though, just don't press on the board. ;)

Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Gigacube on January 21, 2020, 02:07:45 PM
Hey,
I have this XB1 controller 1537 with issues in the LT, i check the signal line and it is not broke(pin 3 of U11 to the MCU pin)
The ground of U11pin is ok and the source (pin 1) is ok,  i notice that there is 1 resistor and 1 cap in serie with the signal line from pin 3 to the MCU, im supposing thah an issue with the resistor may cause this full signal in LT (cuz the cap is connectted to ground, i guess to filter the signal)
Do you know the value of these resistor R42 ?
I have my idea that is 10k omhs,   but may be worng .
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Gigacube on January 21, 2020, 02:49:21 PM
Ok ok ifoud the issue, it was that resistor, it's value seems to be 100 omhs  and it was open in my XB1 controller  thaths why i had full LT signal
  :cool:
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: jvcr on January 22, 2020, 01:48:16 AM
It looks more like it's going full right when pressed versus floating, which could mean the Ground is going open to the POT or the 1.8v is shorting to the center lead.

If the voltage on the POT does not change when pressing on the board and it acts up, then the PCB or a trace could have a crack, or a solder joint on the MCU or anywhere in that line. Putting that physical stress on the board, even a via could be causing it.

Best idea though, just don't press on the board. ;)

My story with this board continued. The problem has not disappeared. And since this problem could be due to the PCB or the MCU, I decided to warm the board with a hot air gun. An example of what I did here https://youtu.be/WEcH1D6AQuw?t=267 (https://youtu.be/WEcH1D6AQuw?t=267) (this is not my video) as an example). My hot air gun settings: 318 degrees Celsius, the maximum blowing speed. I warmed for about one minute. I warmed in the area of the metal plate of the MCU with perforation. I wrapped the remaining sections of the board with foil. The problem has disappeared, but it is not known how much ...)  :beg:
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: gremlins on September 14, 2020, 02:50:06 PM
I have been doing repairs on official controllers for a while, and have come across an issue or 2 in my time.

Since I cannot get schematics, its a pain to do moderate or difficult repairs, for example I have a pad a 1537 that does not power up its LED everything else works. I try another MCU board and the LED works, can anyone help with this issue?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 14, 2020, 03:17:54 PM
The LED control signal comes from U1p94 (U1 pin number 94) on the MCU board, and goes to J6p2 before going to the Top board. Look for a broken trace between those spots or a bad solder joint at U1p94 or U1 could be bad on just that one pin.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: owne3d on October 10, 2020, 02:20:05 PM
Hey it's me again, i wanted to ask if you know what that plastic connector is called the one connecting two pcb's.
I recently bought box full of controllers and it seems someone was unable to solder them properly(melted) so i am gonna change them myself except i cannot find them anywhere
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on October 10, 2020, 04:34:37 PM
J1, J2 is a 4-176891-4

J5, J6 is a 4-175630-4
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Brian 503 on March 18, 2021, 03:36:12 PM
Hey RDC, I need to relocate the guide led on this model of controller. My question is what side of D27 is the cathode? Is it the side where it does a short run from the j2/j6 header "pin#6"to the first D27 connection, Or is the cathode on the other side "after going from j2/j6 past first connection on D27 making it the other side of the d27 connection? Just want to make sure I solder on the right side of that d27 connection so my guide button powers up on power on.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on March 18, 2021, 04:04:06 PM
D27 has nothing to do with the Guide LED.

Anode of D27 goes to J2p6, Cathode goes to the Guide button.

The banded side of the Diode is the Cathode.

Anode -[   | ]- Cathode
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Brian 503 on March 18, 2021, 06:06:53 PM
The controller I have replaced the stock guide led with a multicolored one hooked to a flex pcb. I made a basic 0603 and led pcb to hook up to operate like stock. What connections do I need to hit to make this work. I need a stock led for my mod chip so it can communicate to me what mode I'm in


(https://i.postimg.cc/RqHM7kW1/20210318-181036.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RqHM7kW1)

This is the flex board to the rainbow led guide kit. Vikingdigital.com sweated  the original led off so this flex PCB would rest flat on the guide button location.



(https://i.postimg.cc/LnSMznKR/20210318-181050.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LnSMznKR)

This is my old mod chip. The D+ goes to the led on the controller to tell it to flash the led the amount of times for what mode I'm in. "Heres where the led on my mod chip goes" (Its sethmods free 12lf1822 microchips).

(https://i.postimg.cc/R6wDFL0t/20210318-181119.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R6wDFL0t)

And here is my makeshift new guide led light.

(https://i.postimg.cc/HrRm83Tv/20210318-181747.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HrRm83Tv)

I'm just trying to figure out how I'm supposed to make this all work out.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on March 18, 2021, 06:46:50 PM
If the chip went directly to the LED then just wire up the new LED the same way, Cathode to the chip and Anode to 3.3v thru the appropriate Resistor.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Brian 503 on March 18, 2021, 07:08:52 PM
Thank u so much.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Brian 503 on March 18, 2021, 07:36:40 PM
So 5he green led used 3v to 3.2v. Do I need a resistor? Isn't the hot line a 3.3v sourse? Just curious,I have a bunch of smd resistors just need to know what voltage I'm pulling from to keep it under 3.2v
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on March 18, 2021, 07:46:40 PM
No idea what the 'hot line' is. The stock LED uses 3.5v for it's source and to drive the Rumble motors, while the rest of the controller runs off the 3.3v source. There should at least be a little Resistance in there to limit the current, 10ohms or so if the LED is rated for the same voltage as the source, any more Resistance will just make it dimmer as it will let less current get to the LED.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Brian 503 on March 18, 2021, 08:38:26 PM
Did what u said and everything is working beautifully. Thank u for troubleshooting everything for me. Your always to kind, thanks a million.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on March 18, 2021, 09:25:08 PM
Welcome.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: LlamaJuice on April 20, 2021, 09:20:08 AM
I made an account here to post saying how helpful this thread was for me. I used this thread to revive an old metal PS1 era DDR pad. I'm no professional, but I was stoked that I was able to build this thing thanks to y'all. And I'm stoked to get to stomp some more arrows again! Thanks a ton for your help everyone.

(https://i.imgur.com/imbvT3v.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/oAKu3vN.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/IjiaVBr.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/23VpNMk.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/D3OAzyD.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/FuHiG5I.jpg)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: r4dius on April 28, 2021, 04:55:30 PM
Hi, I'm looking for replacement magnets for a broken controller, do you guys know about the magnetic values of the original ones or any known replacements ?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 29, 2021, 07:15:43 PM
No idea. Best to pick them up from another parts controller so things match up, plenty of those things around. They can be installed backwards, so if the Trigger doesn't work just flip the magnet over and then it should.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: morih94 on August 10, 2021, 04:52:28 AM
Hey the legend @rdc, i have a controller that works perfectly with USB but on battery it turns of after 2 blinks unless i give 3.2v with power source or so then it wont turns off and works perfectly,
i took out u1 and changed half of board battery power trace components and still same story,
i wonder if there is something that you can help me with your exprience
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on August 10, 2021, 08:58:34 AM
Yeah, none of that makes any sense grammatically, so I have no real idea what the exact issues is or what you have done there.

If the thing works on USB then U1, U2 and U3 on the Power Board are all fine. All U1 does is step down the USB 5v to 3v for U2 and U3 to use anyway.

I have no idea where you are injecting this 3.2v power source to make the controller 'work' so for all I know you have dead AA batteries or don't have them connected in series to the AA posts.

First thing to try is plug it up over USB and see if the Guide button works. If the Guide button does not work, then the issues is most likely around that circuit, D27, Q8, Q9 and everything in between, because if Guide does not work then it can not turn the controller on over AA power. If the Guide button does work on USB, then there are only a handful of components between the AA + post and U2/U3 for that to work. L1 is the main thing that can get knocked off the board, also D26, then the PCB can also crack around L1 breaking a trace and causing it to not work on batteries.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: rafammbass on August 17, 2021, 09:40:42 AM
It's a run of the mill PNP Transistor, MMBT3906.

Anyone has a spare Q8? I am having trouble trying to find it. Many thanks!
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ChrisJavier on August 17, 2021, 10:22:50 AM
The RB is unresponsive. I've replaced the switch and the problem persists. I've check continuity of the traces and it all checks out. I've noticed that there's no 3.3v on neither of the pins and the D3 appears to be OL. Is that diode the issue?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on August 17, 2021, 03:53:39 PM
One of those RB leads is ground, so you're not going to get 3.3v on that one.

If D3 was shorted then RB would act pressed all of the time. You didn't specify what unresponsive meant, so can't say one way or the other there.

If RB acts pressed all of the time, it could be D3, C29 or a solder bridge at J2 between pins 3 and 5.

If D3 and C29 are not shorted, and all the traces and connector on the top board are good, then all that is left are the traces on the bottom board, J6p5 needs resoldered or replaced, U1p3 needs resoldered, or U1 is bad.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ChrisJavier on August 20, 2021, 04:34:07 PM
Fixed it by reflowing d3 and the cap right next to it. But now both triggers act as if they are pressed al the time. Sometimes they stop being pressed, but act unresponsive. Any ideas?

EDIT: It had a solder blob shorting R38 and R40 to each other. Fixed!
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: morih94 on September 06, 2021, 05:44:09 AM
Yeah, none of that makes any sense grammatically, so I have no real idea what the exact issues is or what you have done there.

If the thing works on USB then U1, U2 and U3 on the Power Board are all fine. All U1 does is step down the USB 5v to 3v for U2 and U3 to use anyway.

I have no idea where you are injecting this 3.2v power source to make the controller 'work' so for all I know you have dead AA batteries or don't have them connected in series to the AA posts.

First thing to try is plug it up over USB and see if the Guide button works. If the Guide button does not work, then the issues is most likely around that circuit, D27, Q8, Q9 and everything in between, because if Guide does not work then it can not turn the controller on over AA power. If the Guide button does work on USB, then there are only a handful of components between the AA + post and U2/U3 for that to work. L1 is the main thing that can get knocked off the board, also D26, then the PCB can also crack around L1 breaking a trace and causing it to not work on batteries.

Thanks for replying :-) guide button works, it turns on the controller  lemme explain, so all i meant is that the battery has maximum of 3v input, instead of using batteries i connect power source to its pins and as long as the input voltage is above 3.2v controller works wireless , anything below 3.2v on battery pins (which normally work with 2.1v to 3v or sth around it) makes controller turn on ,but it turns off after 2 blinks ,so basically i can't use controller with batteries .
do you have anything in mind that might help? gonna check out L1 trace and change the components
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 06, 2021, 07:02:57 AM
Interesting, in that case I'd look on the MCU board and see if R43 and R44 are still in spec and make sure that C39 isn't shorted or dragging that down.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: morih94 on September 07, 2021, 08:20:43 AM
thanks RDC, got that controller fixed, D26 trace was not connected to Q7's pin, bridged it on board and it works like a charm now. :tup: :drunk:
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 07, 2021, 10:11:49 AM
D26 does not connect to Q7. D26 goes to the Base of Q9. If that D26/Q9 connection is broken, then the controller will not work on battery power at all unless the Guide button is held in.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: BogdanBoner on October 03, 2021, 08:45:36 AM
Hey Guyz, pleas tell me what is the capacitor C22 and C23 Values?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: BogdanBoner on October 05, 2021, 05:52:39 AM
Could anyone help me? Please
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on October 05, 2021, 07:11:20 AM
Both the top and bottom boards each have a C22 and C23. You could remove all 4 of them and it's not going to make a lick of noticeable difference though.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: BogdanBoner on October 05, 2021, 07:49:12 AM
thanks :)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: H1tm4n on March 13, 2022, 04:18:19 AM
I got my hands on a controller that had a problem with its LT, so the guy (no electric knowledge) just removed the components using a screwdriver, thinking he could at least make it not functional instead of being pressed all the time.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4dpzobswp68s4g0/20220311_175337.jpg

Now I want to repair it and use it for myself, but I'm having trouble figuring out the capacitor values needed, as well as the package size.

So far what I found out:

Missing components:

U11 - A1304ELHLX-T hall sensor
C37 -
C38 -
R42 - same as R39? 100 ohm?

The package size for the resistor and capacitors is 0402 is what I'm guessing, but I might be wrong?


Thanks in advance!
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on March 13, 2022, 07:15:16 AM
Pretty sure that guy knows more about electronics than you do about hand tools, as any screwdriver, including the drink, would have made a mess of the pads, traces and board there. ;)

U11 -  Correct, same as U10
C37 - 1uF, same as C33, anything rated 6.3v or more is fine
C38 - 470nF, same as C36, again anything 6.3v up is good
R42 - Correct

All of the aforementioned components are 0402 sized.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: H1tm4n on March 13, 2022, 08:14:45 AM
Pretty sure that guy knows more about electronics than you do about hand tools, as any screwdriver, including the drink, would have made a mess of the pads, traces and board there. ;)

U11 -  Correct, same as U10
C37 - 1uF, same as C33, anything rated 6.3v or more is fine
C38 - 470nF, same as C36, again anything 6.3v up is good
R42 - Correct

All of the aforementioned components are 0402 sized.

Thanks again!

A screwdriver wouldn't be my first choice of removing components though  :laughing:
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Sagafredo on June 22, 2022, 03:31:26 AM
Guys, need a hand in here.

Long time ago I fix my XB Elite  Controller but I rip off the part accidentally the C2 capacitor and I'm trying to replace it.
Was lookin the diagram of XB1 controller and its the same capacitor but I I'm not sure the value of it, if some can help me with deal with this problem.
(I don't know if even necessary the C2 capacitor)

(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/379856267449073664/989114169901088778/unknown.png)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: dj_amir on June 29, 2022, 01:23:55 PM
Hi friends
What is the value of c6 and c7 capacitors?

https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/1537TBT.jpg
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on June 29, 2022, 01:33:44 PM
@ Sagafredo - C2 is 4.7uF, 16v or more. Not really necessary to replace it.

@ dj_amir - C6 is 16uF, C7 is 100nF
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Kimirafer on August 18, 2022, 10:36:09 AM
Hi, I've been converting my xbox one controller (model 1537) to usb-c. Sadly I ripped the pads when removing the micro usb port. I found the first components in line, so I connected the power line to C2, D- to R2, D+ to R3 and ground to C4. When I attach it to my pc, it vibrates, so at least it's getting power. It only attempts to find an xbox, so the wired data connection doesn't work. Any ideas what the issue could be?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on August 19, 2022, 08:44:16 PM
There is literally 0 benefit to changing that port to USB-C, and using an adapter cable would have saved you the arse ache.

Said ground to C4, but not which side. If it's on the wrong side then you have D- shorted to ground. Ground it to the left side of C2 or one of the mounting solder lugs of LB.

Try wiring just a USB cable up and seeing if that works.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Dark Knight_TJ on September 23, 2022, 07:06:12 PM
Sir, what part number d22 , q6 and q7 are? . Thanks in avance
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 24, 2022, 12:49:57 AM
D22, no idea on the exact specs. It is some kind of switching diode. Best to get one from a scrap board if you need to replace it. Q6 and Q7 are shown in the schematic.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Dark Knight_TJ on September 24, 2022, 12:37:35 PM
Thanks. For d22 used 1n4148ws sod123 1206 and for now seems  to work. Should I keep using it that way or should I look for original part?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on September 24, 2022, 12:51:55 PM
Without knowing the original diode specs it's hard to say, as that that could be big enough, or it might be too small current wise. I'd probably look for a donor board to get another diode from just so it was correct. D23 is the same diode on that board also, and just about every version of the top board will have one that could be used as a replacement, so don't limit yourself to looking for a donor 1537 if you go that way.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Dark Knight_TJ on September 24, 2022, 03:16:26 PM
Thanks boss, would keep that in mind (dont  have donor boards)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Worf on December 01, 2022, 10:35:14 AM
Hi. I have  buttons X,A,Y that don't  register only B button works. I changed the rubber button pad, same problem. Checked the vias, I have all the continuities showed in the schematic of the first page. What to check next?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on December 01, 2022, 10:49:53 AM
If the traces are all good and grounds are good, then the MCU is suspect.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Worf on December 02, 2022, 08:34:10 AM
Hi. What's the value of R13? ( marked with red arrow)

(https://i.postimg.cc/C1Sdxv2b/1537-TBBmod.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on December 02, 2022, 10:09:53 AM
That value is in the schematic.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: jetuaime81 on February 15, 2023, 10:36:29 AM
I would like to know the value of c33 (near the magnetic hall effect IC). And also i knocked off L18 and C95 (near the crystal) on the small board with XBOX ic, those values are also needed. Can I short L18?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on February 15, 2023, 12:32:04 PM
C33 is 1uF

L18 and C95 are in the RF filter, you'll need to get those from another controller so the values are correct.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: jetuaime81 on February 15, 2023, 12:46:56 PM
Thankyou. I don't have another controller. I will try bridging the inductor and ignoring the cap.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: hurricanemaiden on April 13, 2023, 03:54:30 PM
Can someone help me? I have a control of this 1537, which the left analog stick keeps pulling down even after changing the part and cleaning the board, could you help me to solve this problem?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: hurricanemaiden on April 13, 2023, 03:58:43 PM
https://imgur.com/a/5p4YzIl
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 15, 2023, 11:32:36 AM
Looks like drift. There are several ways to go about correcting that, do a search and pick your flavor.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: blinkerss on April 15, 2023, 02:44:48 PM
Is it possible and safe to tied the output of U2 and U3 together?, Since they both have quite the same output voltage range.

Thanks
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 15, 2023, 03:12:55 PM
I wouldn't. What possible reason could you have for wanting to do that?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: blinkerss on April 15, 2023, 03:20:52 PM
I've got an 1537 with shorted U2, and while waiting for the replacement IC, I'm thinking to try to used the output of U3 to power the U2 line, for the sake of just powering the 1537 and used it for a while.

Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 15, 2023, 03:28:57 PM
U2 only powers the LED and Rumble motors, the controller should still be working fine, minus those things.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: blinkerss on April 15, 2023, 03:37:07 PM
Hmm, so basically the 1537 (and maybe 1708?) only need U3 to powered up?, Since we can removed the U1 if only using battery, and we can removed the U2 if we dont need any led and vibration?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 15, 2023, 03:45:39 PM
Yep, but then you have no idea if the controller is on, syncing or blinking for some other reason. Speaking 1537 only here, if you don't want to install U2, you could disable the Ruble motors by removing Q10, then you could jumper the output of U3 to the output line for U2 and get the LED power working, albeit 0.2v less so it'll be a shade dimmer. I wouldn't jumper U3 out to U2 out with all of the Rumble motors being able to be active as it's not going to like powering all of that at the same time.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: blinkerss on April 15, 2023, 04:01:20 PM
Thanks for the suggestion RDC!, I'll try the blind (no led) 1537 test first  :hifive:

Another question, what will happen if I flip the position of R34 and R35?, Both is removed along with the U2 when i'm trying to find the culprit of dead 1537, and its very difficult to hold and test those ultra tiny resistor with DMM
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 15, 2023, 04:20:05 PM
Do not get those mixed up, they set the feedback voltage for U3, which it uses to set the output voltage. R34 is 340k, R35 is 190k. If you install those backwards the thing will not output 3.3v, it will be closer to 1.8v if that happens.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: blinkerss on April 16, 2023, 07:09:32 AM
1. i've tried to powered the 1537 with only U3 installed (U1 and U2 is omitted), and push the GUIDE button and connect it to PC via cable and/or XBOX wireless receiver
result: it doesnt show up in PC

2. i shorted the C26 and C16, U3 now is powering also U2 line
result: when i push the GUIDE button, the led is flash ONE time, and not blinking just like normal xbox do (but at least something is happening LOL), and the U3 getting kinda warm

does maybe the R34 and R35 that (maybe) flipped cause this?, or its just U3 can't handle to power 2 line at a time?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 16, 2023, 08:48:53 AM
See the above post about R34/R35.

Each of those Caps have 2 connections, one side being ground, and no idea how you 'shorted' those together, so you may have something shorted to ground. Already said that I wouldn't do the U3/U2 thing, unless you pull Q10 first so the Rumble circuit gets no power.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: blinkerss on April 16, 2023, 09:06:33 PM
Quote from: RDC
See the above post about R34/R35.

yes I've read your comment about the importance position of R34 and R35  :yess:   

Quote from: RDC
Each of those Caps have 2 connections, one side being ground, and no idea how you 'shorted' those together, so you may have something shorted to ground. Already said that I wouldn't do the U3/U2 thing, unless you pull Q10 first so the Rumble circuit gets no power.

(https://i.ibb.co/bRkmvgN/sketch-1681661439704.png)

please check the image of the point where i shorted it, and i've check it with DMM,  the voltage line is okay and no shorted to the ground, but i dont check the exact value of the voltage

and i already disconnect all 4 vibrator, but i dont remove the Q10

i think i've just wait the mp3414 replacement to arrive

thanks anyway RDC!  :cool:
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 17, 2023, 04:51:40 AM
Yeah those are the right spots. It's either too much of a load or there's another issue somewhere.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: blinkerss on April 17, 2023, 08:15:33 AM
confirmed: i've switched the position of R34 and R35 :rofl:, but when i try to swithed it back, obviously one of the super duper extra tiny resistor is missing, the 190k one.

what type is this resistor?, and if i'm try to used one of the resistor from unused U1 circuit, R17 100k, what will happen?, i'm assumed the output voltage from U3 must be higher than 3.3v, since the voltage divider value is getting higher if I'm using 100k as R35 (90K lower than the original value 190k)

thanks RDC
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: KeptWolf769 on April 22, 2023, 06:14:36 AM
My Model 1537 was having vertical stick drift on my left stick so I attempted replacing the Y potentiometer but now it?s locked on 100% vertical and moves between 20 and 75 when I touch all 3 pins. Is there something I did wrong? All through holes are still in good shape and I think I soldered it well. Can anyone help me.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0e4Z63MrKDDTeR9_TtPlXGI7Q (https://share.icloud.com/photos/0e4Z63MrKDDTeR9_TtPlXGI7Q)
 https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b12vKpWraH4rQ51JHjWttRKQ (https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b12vKpWraH4rQ51JHjWttRKQ)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on April 22, 2023, 10:26:54 AM
@ blinkerss - The voltage output value will be off. Look thru the Datasheet for the chip if you want to know what it will be exactly, but it's not going to work that way either. You need a 190k 1% or better value Resistor there.


@ KeptWolf769 - Stick up full is either the Axis line shorted to ground, or there is no voltage going to the POT for that Axis. Since the soldering looks good, could be you buggered the wiper or alignment when installing the new POT, or the trace for AN+ (power) to that POT is broken. Make sure the POT moves when the stick does first, and if it does, then try putting a jumper wire in and connecting the red spots together and see if that does anything.

(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Repair/KeptWolf769_IMG_8165.jpg)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: KeptWolf769 on April 23, 2023, 11:01:26 AM
@ blinkerss - The voltage output value will be off. Look thru the Datasheet for the chip if you want to know what it will be exactly, but it's not going to work that way either. You need a 190k 1% or better value Resistor there.


@ KeptWolf769 - Stick up full is either the Axis line shorted to ground, or there is no voltage going to the POT for that Axis. Since the soldering looks good, could be you buggered the wiper or alignment when installing the new POT, or the trace for AN+ (power) to that POT is broken. Make sure the POT moves when the stick does first, and if it does, then try putting a jumper wire in and connecting the red spots together and see if that does anything.

(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Repair/KeptWolf769_IMG_8165.jpg)

This was very helpful. The potentiometer itself was the problem so I replaced it and its now working perfectly.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ZhenyaKa on August 16, 2023, 12:39:38 PM
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fipic.su%2Fimg%2Fimg7%2Ffs%2Fkiss_268kb.1692214738.jpg&hash=2a0e3711a8419c58edf1809a9618663ecd4686ec)

Is it MCU MP3414?

It have ACMK letters
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on August 16, 2023, 12:47:28 PM
Look in the MP3414 datasheet.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ZhenyaKa on August 16, 2023, 12:57:30 PM
Look in the MP3414 datasheet.
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fipic.su%2Fimg%2Fimg7%2Ffs%2Fkiss_59kb.1692215618.jpg&hash=e88f49a4a6af281861e674391c0f8bd913e085d8)
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fipic.su%2Fimg%2Fimg7%2Ffs%2Fkiss_56kb.1692215722.jpg&hash=afe8f770ad2f49de576db0c1e14d3cfc413a2414)
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fipic.su%2Fimg%2Fimg7%2Ffs%2Fkiss_2kb.1692215750.jpg&hash=1117181cf98fe690eff87ab1d5dc5dff9b6b307c)

(340/195+1)*1,21 = 3,319743589744V

Last letter differs, but connection diagram and calculation of R-divider okay
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ZhenyaKa on August 16, 2023, 01:01:09 PM

As I understood this step-up DC-DC. Increase voltage from 3V (R6 bats) to 3.3V. But XB1 doesn't works via USB cable too :(
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ZhenyaKa on August 16, 2023, 01:04:29 PM
Sorry! I find your shematics :) Thanks a lot for it
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on August 16, 2023, 01:15:47 PM
Last letter is the Year of manufacture, so it's not going to be a Y on all of them.

It's also not going to power up on USB with that chip fried. U3 makes the 3.3v that most of the controller uses. U2 powers the LED and Rumble motors. U1 steps down the USB 5v to 3v for U3 to use.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ZhenyaKa on August 16, 2023, 01:21:19 PM
Last letter is the Year of manufacture, so it's not going to be a Y on all of them.

It's also not going to power up on USB with that chip fried. U3 makes the 3.3v that most of the controller uses. U2 powers the LED and Rumble motors. U1 steps down the USB 5v to 3v for U3 to use.

I've tested voltage: at TP7 - 3.5V is okay, but at batteries contacts 4.38V instead 3V.

MP2161 is dead too?

Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on August 16, 2023, 04:45:40 PM
Check TP11 for U1 Output, not the AA contacts.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ZhenyaKa on August 16, 2023, 04:50:48 PM
Check TP11 for U1 Output, not the AA contacts.

it's okay at TP11. I understood why at AA have 4+V

Voltage goes this way :)

(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fipic.su%2Fimg%2Fimg7%2Ffs%2Fkiss_96kb.1692229789.jpg&hash=fa9d15415ce5364feb8857eb1851622316d8ffe7)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on August 16, 2023, 11:03:20 PM
Path is thru R21, not R19. DNI means Do No Install, so there is no Resistor there.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Raph on October 21, 2023, 08:41:05 AM
Hi, I'm new here so sorry if I'm not very precise in my explanations.
I have a question to ask you, I recently collected the controller (Xbox One model 1537) from a member of my family to repair it for him.
His controller had the rb button that didn't work. So I opened it, but upon opening it I realized that the batteries had leaked (mainly on the two pins in contact with the batteries which are soldered to the motherboard), so I cleaned the controller. Then I tested the button because given that the RB solders are next to the pins for the batteries, I told myself that it was perhaps just a dirt problem. However, the button still did not work so I launched into a series of tests to repair the button. I replaced the rb button with a new one (it still didn't work), I tried to recover a button from one of my old xbox 360 controllers (it still didn't work) so I told myself that the Oxidation may have damaged the motherboard so I unsoldered the pin for the batteries closest to RB in order to clean it and clean the motherboard, it still didn't work. I'm starting to get a little desperate and the motherboard is starting to get tired from soldering and unsoldering. I also tried removing the green protective layer from the motherboard in the rb area to see if the copper was attacked but it wasn't. I've been trying to fix it for two weeks now but I don't know what else to do. If you have an idea, I'm interested. There is also an interesting thing to point out, which is that I resoldered the original rb button of the xbox one controller on one of my xbox 360 controllers, the rb button worked. So the original button was not defective.Thank you in advance for your answers.
Raph
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ZhenyaKa on October 21, 2023, 11:20:18 PM
Hi, I'm new here so sorry if I'm not very precise in my explanations.
I have a question to ask you, I recently collected the controller (Xbox One model 1537) from a member of my family to repair it for him.
His controller had the rb button that didn't work. So I opened it, but upon opening it I realized that the batteries had leaked (mainly on the two pins in contact with the batteries which are soldered to the motherboard), so I cleaned the controller. Then I tested the button because given that the RB solders are next to the pins for the batteries, I told myself that it was perhaps just a dirt problem. However, the button still did not work so I launched into a series of tests to repair the button. I replaced the rb button with a new one (it still didn't work), I tried to recover a button from one of my old xbox 360 controllers (it still didn't work) so I told myself that the Oxidation may have damaged the motherboard so I unsoldered the pin for the batteries closest to RB in order to clean it and clean the motherboard, it still didn't work. I'm starting to get a little desperate and the motherboard is starting to get tired from soldering and unsoldering. I also tried removing the green protective layer from the motherboard in the rb area to see if the copper was attacked but it wasn't. I've been trying to fix it for two weeks now but I don't know what else to do. If you have an idea, I'm interested. There is also an interesting thing to point out, which is that I resoldered the original rb button of the xbox one controller on one of my xbox 360 controllers, the rb button worked. So the original button was not defective.Thank you in advance for your answers.
Raph
Check pulldown resistor, check wire from button to connector, check soldering of connector at both sides. You can connect buttons contacts without desoldering it using tweezers to check it. In the firstt message in this topic lines marked magenta and pink color.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on October 22, 2023, 12:35:48 AM
There is no pulldown Resistor on active Lo buttons.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Raph on October 22, 2023, 07:30:09 AM
Thank you for your answers, I will check this later. I have another quick question, do you know what the use of C29 and D3 is and are they essential because maybe they are the ones who are damaged. So maybe I could make a diversion to avoid going through them.
It seems to me that there was a similar question in an old post but I would like to have your opinion in this specific case.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on October 22, 2023, 07:35:26 AM
Just a Capacitor and a TVS Diode. If either of those were shorted, RB would act like it was pressed all the time. If they failed open, RB would still work normally.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ZhenyaKa on October 22, 2023, 07:42:28 AM
There is no pulldown Resistor on active Lo buttons.
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fipic.su%2Fimg%2Fimg7%2Ffs%2Fkiss_116kb.1697985719.jpg&hash=40750c1aadf8c2a30f4a06271512fe3f0353ebac)
Is this diode?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on October 22, 2023, 07:47:58 AM
That's on the LB line, not RB, and it's for a Diode, not a Resistor, and it's not installed from the factory.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ZhenyaKa on October 22, 2023, 07:54:12 AM
That's on the LB line, not RB, and it's for a Diode, not a Resistor, and it's not installed from the factory.

LB RB no difference. They are the same :)

My mistake about resistor
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on October 22, 2023, 08:04:05 AM
LB RB no difference. They are the same :)
Except for the fact they are different, and he has an issue with RB. There is noting that could be done to the LB line that would make RB work again.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: ZhenyaKa on October 22, 2023, 08:08:34 AM
Except for the fact they are different, and he has an issue with RB. There is noting that could be done to the LB line that would make RB work again.

I meant that they are schematically the same and the health check of these buttons is the same
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: rubs on October 23, 2023, 10:24:14 PM
Hi, I've just got a 1537 controller. Everything works when wired. On the batteries, it turns on but doesn't pair with the Xbox.
From where can I start looking?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Raph on October 31, 2023, 12:36:16 PM
Hello, thanks for your answers RDC and ZhenyaKa.
Rubs, whats the model of your Xbox ?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: rubs on November 08, 2023, 04:06:14 PM
Hello, thanks for your answers RDC and ZhenyaKa.
Rubs, whats the model of your Xbox ?

Hi Raph! My Xbox is an One S. I've tried another 1537 controller and it worked just fine. But this one doesn't pair.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Raph on November 09, 2023, 08:44:51 AM
Hi, thank you for your response, I think the problem actually comes from the wireless module of your controller. Indeed, it seems to me that the 1537 models do not have bluetooth. If I'm not mistaken, they work wirelessly using radio waves as was the case on the Xbox 360. For my part, I connected a Day One 2013 controller to an Xbox One S and it worked. I also connected a classic 1537 controller to an Xbox Series X and it worked. So I suggest you look at which part of the controller handles the wireless connectivity and try to either repair it or change it.
Last question, have you already taken this controller apart or not yet?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: rubs on November 09, 2023, 02:59:36 PM
Hi Raph. You're right, the 1537 model doesn't have Bluetooth. I've taken it apart, and I'm trying to compare the voltages with a known working board. It seems someone already tried to replace the U3B board, but I think it's not an easy job, so I don't know if they succeeded. Sorry if the text is confusing. I don't know how to punctuate in English.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Raph on November 09, 2023, 11:33:50 PM
Hi Rubs, it's actually a good idea to compare the voltages with a comparison card that works.
At the moment I only have one 1537 controller so I can't compare the voltages of the controller I'm trying to repair.

I don't see what you mean by U3B board are you talking about USB or is it a part that I don't know? Have you tried connecting it to your Xbox then going into the application to manage Xbox accessories to update the controller's internal software? Maybe this could solve the connection problem.

No problem with punctuation, for my part I am French and I use Google translate to be sure that I am understood and then I reread to remove the odd turns of phrase due to automatic translation.

Have a nice day !
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Raph on November 11, 2023, 09:49:55 AM
Hi RDC et ZhenyaKa, I tried the solutions you gave me, I tested by putting paper clips (because my tweezers were too big) so a paper clip with the two parts put in the bottom holes of rb and a another paper clip with the two parts in the two holes at the top of rb. When with my multimeter I test if the paper clips conduct the electricity, that works. If I put my multimeter with a tip on each paperclip, the electrcity does not flow, I do not know if it is normal. I think the problem comes from the power supply of the rb button. What do you think?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on November 11, 2023, 11:09:17 AM
Post a picture of your board.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Raph on November 13, 2023, 05:41:07 AM
Hi, sorry for my late response, here are the photos of both sides of each card so you can see if there is a problem. As you can see the second card is in perfect condition. I did a lot of soldering because I thought the buttons I had were broken. I also scratched the green protection of the PCB to see the state of the copper underneath. Please be lenient as this is my first controller repair.  :victory:
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Raph on November 13, 2023, 06:07:43 AM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53329545163_f960a23744_k.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53329318946_8c5def6963_k.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53328445432_27362bd052_k.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53328445422_7563a29ceb_k.jpg)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on November 13, 2023, 06:25:50 AM
Put a new switch in there, solder up the 3 that are still there, if they will take solder, if not all of them are ground. Then solder the last pin of it with a jumper wire to J2p5, taking care to route the wire where the shell will not pinch it.

(https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Repair/Raph_RB.jpg)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Raph on November 13, 2023, 06:35:53 AM
Thank you for your answer, so I have to put a new rb button, I solder the three pins and I leave the one circled in purple without soldering, then I solder the last one and I connect the solder to the bottom connector of the PCB which is colored in purple?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Raph on November 14, 2023, 08:53:45 AM
Hi, here are the photos of my repair, however the rb button still does not work, I will let you look so you can tell me if you have an idea why it does not work.


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53332288014_3f88d7d94c_k.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53332403115_2e69c3a41b_k.jpg)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on November 14, 2023, 10:34:21 AM
That looks more like you used solder instead of wire, and if it's connected at J2 there I'd be surprised. Make sure the ground side of the RB buttons is still connected to ground also.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Raph on November 14, 2023, 01:15:15 PM
Thank you for your answer, I am sorry if I am not very good, I am trying to do that as best as possible. So I will try again tomorrow with copper wire instead of solder, and I will check the rb solders at the motherboard. do you think the copper could melt with the soldering iron?
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on November 14, 2023, 02:02:59 PM
No need to apologize for not getting it right the first time. If your soldering iron can melt copper, which takes ~2k degrees F (just over 1k C) then you have far bigger issues. ;)

Now lifting traces off the board after soldering to it, that's a different thing completely, and it means you are leaving the heat on there for far too long. Even though it's really thin copper, it's not melting it, it's just causing it to 'unglue' from the board and come off. The solder has melted, stuck and done it's job long before it gets to that point, as solder only takes 200~800F (90~450C) depending on the type used.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Raph on November 15, 2023, 10:17:41 AM
Hi, it still does not work, this time I used copper wire that I soldered. I redid the other soldering of the rb button but it does not change anything. Is there something I did wrong or is the problem coming from somewhere else ?   :wacko:


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53334356593_74fa093f24_k.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53334356678_d37137bac9_h.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53333245622_b700b8c985_k.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53334356673_78ca600363_h.jpg)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on November 15, 2023, 10:29:28 AM
That wire is way, way too large for that kind of repair, and honestly that looks worse than the solder did before. Given how the soldering is splashed all over at J2, I can't believe it doesn't have any other issues now.

It's still not past the point of being repaired, but if you keep going in that direction it's going to get harder and harder.

Remove that wire and clean all of that up with some rubbing alcohol and Q-tips and lets start over.

What are you using for a soldering iron and solder there? Do you have a DMM? Digital Multi-Meter
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Raph on November 16, 2023, 07:41:35 AM
Hi, thank you for your reply. I will do the soldering again because it is true that it is not great. I have an 80 watt soldering iron (maybe a little too powerful), it tends to burn my solder instead of melting it. I feel like I am welding with Superman's eyes ! I use 100% tin solder. I actually have a digital multimeter. I will send you a photo later in private of my equipment to get your opinion.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on November 16, 2023, 09:00:30 AM
If you're using 100% tin and no really good flux that would explain a lot. Get yourself some 60/40 or something around that ratio (Tin/Lead) rosin core solder.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: Raph on November 16, 2023, 10:04:54 AM
OK thanks I will look for that. This might explain why I have trouble soldering.
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: sekto on February 20, 2024, 06:03:30 PM
Hi guys. I really don't know if I'm posting this on the correct place.
I have a really old controller board that I thought it wasn't working anymore. But when I plugged, voil?, it was working but with the problem of start keep being pressed. When I was trying to fix, I broke a coil on L4 and I cant find any PCB to discover the value of this piece. I tried some different, from other boards, and sometimes it turn on, others it just heats.

Can someone tell me the value of this coil (any image) or can I make another circuit?


L4 with a random coil:
(https://acidmods.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2FHTTP%3A%2F%2Fi.postimg.cc%2F5yQfgpLX%2FIMG-20240220-224311-PIXEL.jpg&hash=3f6ea065870aaf71abd617aa1d76f9ffabd396e2)


Board:
(https://i.postimg.cc/rz6MPWNQ/IMG-20240220-224339-PIXEL.jpg)


Board (another coil is close to leave me  :beg: )
(https://i.postimg.cc/NMMs9Q07/IMG-20240220-224300-PIXELzz.jpg)


CloseUp
(https://i.postimg.cc/5yQfgpLX/IMG-20240220-224311-PIXEL.jpg)
Title: Re: XB1 Controller PCB Scans, Traces and Info - 1537
Post by: RDC on February 21, 2024, 01:56:39 PM
Schematic for that board is on the first page of this thread. L3 and L4 on that board are the same value also.
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