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Yes and No. You'll need to first gently remove the coating from the contacts first to expose the copper pad, then you can solder to it. The DS4 uses 3 different button configurations also, so you'll need to wire up all of your buttons accordingly and install a couple of Resistors to take the place of the existing Daughter boards that will no longer be installed. The D-pad, X, O, [ ] and /\ buttons all use Ground for their common. Also the PS, Touchpad, Share and Option buttons use Ground for common. The L1, R1, L3 and R3 buttons all use 3.2v as the common. The L2 and R2 are where it gets to be a little more work. First you'll need to install a Pull-Up Resistor from 3.2v to the L2 and R2 lines, one for each side. The value is ~7.5k, but 10k will work just as well in this case. Then you'll connect your new L2 and R2 buttons wires to the L2/2L spots for L2, and R2/2R spots for R2. If you have the room, just leave the Sticks installed on the board, as you don't want to tear up any traces there and have that mess to deal with.
Possibly, though I haven't been keeping any track at all of those numbers on the back. The model number is always the same, just like the DS3 days, so that one is useless for telling what it may be. You would also need the very first one at every stage they changed it, so you knew the exact numbers, or there would still be overlap with what you were getting. If you're planning on doing anything to it internally, then you'll be taking it apart anyway, and then you'll know what it is for sure.
For a case it wouldn't make any difference what the controller version was, now for a new shell it would. Every controller I have here, from -001 thru -030, all have a serial that start with a 1, so that's not going to help you. If you are looking to get a new shell for your controller, then again, you're going to have to take the thing apart anyway, so just do that and then you'll know what version it is.
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